HAMILTON - BERMUDA

19th - 20th June 2018

Hamilton harbour

To Hamilton from St. George's by bus. The bus service around the island is normally quite good, when they are not on strike or 'go-slow' that is, which I experienced on my way back to St. George's from The Royal Naval Dock Yards the other day. I then had to get my host to collect me by scooter from the Hamilton bus station as there had been a 'work to rule' which meant leaving many people stranded and totally informationless.

This time the bus worked out OK and it is about 45 mins to Hamilton, the capital, on a north shore peninsular about halfway down the island. Not a bad sort of place with some fairly upmarket looking office buildings, no doubt where all these insurance and re-insurance businesses are based.

Left: Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity on, unsurprisingly, Church Street near the centre. Quite an imposing building but I didn't bother to go inside.

There are lots of decent shops and shopping 'malls' but, surprisingly, few outdoor cafés along the harbour front (Front Street) or elsewhere. Most of the bars and restaurants seemed to be in upstairs locations. Room for improvement here, I felt. One aspect of Bermuda I really admire is that there are no foreign 'fast food' franchises. They are banned. Actually one, a Kentucky Fried Chicken outlet, sneaked in before they were made illegal and it still exists. Apart from that none of the dreadful US obesity and diabetes outlets exist. What a refreshing change from anywhere else on the planet (apart from North Korea). 

Right: An amusing statue outside the ferry terminal. A cox at the back but I couldn't quite work out how they propelled themselves.

Left: There are several ads around town to encourage you to join the Royal Bermuda Regiment. Bermuda has a long history of British military occupation with many famous old Regiments having been stationed here. Now they just have the Royal Bermuda Regiment which, I am sure, is a force to be reckoned with. Apparently they have a pipe band which, if nothing else, would probably strike fear into any invaders.

Right: The Cabinet Building, Bermuda's Senate. The 'Opening of Parliament' is held here involving the British Governor in full regalia, plumed hat and horse-drawn carriage etc. before the Parliament descends into normal long-winded and tedious debates. 

Open to the public on Wednesdays, when in session, if you are interested.

Out of curiosity I took a walk along Front Street to the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI). It is quite a high-tech museum of things underwater (I don't mean the museum is underwater of course) but actually not that interesting, and very few visitors while I was there.

There is a simulated 'journey' in a capsule to the bottom of the ocean which attracted a few of us sparse visitors. We first had to wait for ages because the guy running it didn't turn up on time. Having sat ourselves down in a sort of cabin with bench seats it took us through some 3D action descending to the depths. It involved close encounters with a giant squid but, on the whole, despite some reasonable visuals, was a very disjointed trip and, frankly, rather silly and uninspiring.

There were various deep-sea things on display, including a vast collection of sea shells. Yawn (if you are not into that sort of thing). 

Left: A modern type of diving suit.

Right: An old fashioned type of diving suit.

Left: ...and a replica of the original Bathysphere.

Then on up the hill on the west side to Fort Hamilton (right). A moat ringed fortress built in the 1860s as a defence for the west end's Naval Dockyard.

There are several old cannons on display and underground chambers for accommodation, magazines and storerooms. 

Left: A large cannon, but I don't understand how it worked. If it ever did.

Right: A 'gun pit' which, if you can enlarge and read the sign, says 'Gunpit For Montcrieff. Disappearing Carriage'. Well, whatever was there has certainly disappeared. 

Left: ...and a few well tended gardens around the outsides.

OK, Fort Hamilton was not very inspiring but you get good views over the harbour.

I passed, as everywhere on this island, lots of churches of various strange denominations including a 'Seventh Day Adventist' shop. I popped in and asked "what exactly is a Seventh Day Adventist?". I got the same reaction as when I asked the Tourist Info lady about 'loitering'; vis a blank stare because they thought I was bonkers.

I then took a long walk up to the northern heights to see Government House (right), the seat of the resident British Governor. This grand house sits up on the high ground with  lovely views both north and south and has a large area of well tended gardens. I was told that these gardens are the largest area of uninhabited land on the island. 

It was here, after dinner, at midnight on 10th March 1973, that the then Governor, Sir Richard Sharples, was assassinated by a Black Power fanatic, along with his ADC, Capt Hugh Sayers, and his dog, a Great Dane called Horsa.

I eventually found my way to the front guard post and asked the guard (ex-Royal Bermuda Regiment) if there was any chance of going inside. He told me that the Governor and his ADC (Royal Bermuda Regiment) were away; they probably saw me coming. I chatted him up and passed admiring comments on his chestful of medals. He was charming but "no, I had to leave" and was not encouraged to wander around the grounds. So I did anyway. 

Left: The front door.

There are two decent tennis courts here and dozens of trees of various description planted by  visiting Royalty, Presidents and prominent politicians, all with plaques to commemorate the planting. You name 'em, they've planted it. (Duke of Edinburgh, President Carter, Harold MacMillan, John Major, Princess Anne etc. etc.) and this one (right) by Margaret Thatcher.

On my way back down to the town I passed, in the middle of nowhere, this establishment (left).

I had to call in. After ringing the bell 'for service' and some delay I was enthusiastically greeted by an old lady called Emelda, and her little dog (Mitzy), who were standing behind a counter surrounded by some fairly tawdry items of their trade. I suspect she gets very few visitors and was glad for the opportunity of a chat. She even invited me to stay for some food and a drink but, sadly, due to other pressing engagements, I had to decline.

There are many Poinciana trees like this around the place (right). Very colourful and several more exuberant than this one.

.....and a humorously named Jamaican food shop (left).

There was to be a 'street party' on Front Street that evening and I decided to attend. They had closed off the street to vehicles and many stalls were set up selling a variety of local goods. All very jolly and the local Bobbies were out in their hi-vis jackets. I must say they are a very jovial bunch.

Left: A Town Crier was on duty to advise and assist the passers-by. I didn't hear him doing much 'crying' but he was popular for photo opportunities. There was a US cruise ship docked nearby so no shortage of volunteers.

The main attraction that evening was a performance by Gombey dancers (right). Gombey dancing is a throw-back to African/Caribbean heritage and consists of a 'leader' who coordinates a whole gang of colourfully dressed and masked dancers with tall feathery hats to the sound of very loud drums. 

Left: The 'leader', I think.

Right: A 'Gombey huddle' where, perhaps. they decide on the next moves.














Left: ...and there were some solo performances by a few small Gombeys, to much applause.

A very photogenic ensemble and I took loads of pics. It went on for a long time.

Back by bus to St. George's. We (my host, who had been working that day, and I) decided to go for a drink at the St.George's Club which caters for a wealthy estate of houses on the north side of the town. We had been there before for a meal and had met the barman/manager. He is/was a very dour Scotsman who did not appear to exude much bonhomie. On arrival (not too late) we went to the bar, at which were standing a couple of people (his mates?), asked for a drink and were told "we're closed". "Why is that" we politely asked. "Cos there's nae any customers" he replied. "Well we are customers" we suggested. "Aye, weel we're still closed". I suspect he is not happy in his job and I don't think they will be making much of a profit. Hey ho! 

I haven't yet finished with Bermuda....one more to come from the western parishes.

CARNIVAL TIME - BERMUDA

17th - 18th June 2018

A colourful Carnival Queen

Many, if not most, private houses in St. George's display a 'BEWARE OF THE DOG' sign. The curious thing is I never saw, or heard, any of the dogs in question. I have a sneaking suspicion that they were bluffing! I contemplated calling in at one of these houses and announcing myself as the 'Local Official for Canine Affairs' and asking, politely, to see their Dog Licence and to check that their guard dog was in good health; perhaps including that the Town Council is conducting a survey of the dog population.  Needless to say I didn't get round to doing it...but it might have proved interesting.

There is an amusing and eclectic choice of bars and restaurants on the islands. One of which is over the long causeway south of St. David's Island (the island which is home to the airport) at Blue Hole Hill called The Swizzle Inn (left). This popular bar/restaurant is famous for serving Bermuda's national cocktail the 'Rum Swizzle'. It consists of dark rum & sickly stuff and looked quite revolting. I never tried it. The other favoured national drink is the 'Dark 'n Stormy'; another dark rum and ginger ale concoction which I did try and which is, indeed, revolting (according to me!). I stuck to beer, wine and rum &soda.

Inside (right), the pub is festooned with business/visiting cards and foreign bank notes. I added to the collection. The food there is quite good and 'relatively' inexpensive with very jolly staff. 

They have a Dress Code (left). I think I passed, although I'm not sure what 'baggies' or 'skullies' are and I made doubly sure that my underwear was well concealed. No mention of disgraceful  socks and shoes with shorts, so I got away with that. Bare feet?!

By the by and before I forget, another watering hole we used to frequent in St. George's, and which provided excellent food and wine, is 'Wahoo's Bistro' on Water Street, on the waterfront. The owner is a vastly amusing German (I think) called Kaiser Wolf (I think) and he is a great host. Delicious Weiner Schnitzels amongst other things on the menu. He kept us going with 'freebie' Jagermeisters. Worth a visit if you're passing by.

After the Swizzle Inn, I swozzled out and set off on my scooter to investigate a couple of the smart golf courses in the area. On the way I passed a sign pointing to the Crystal Caves, so I decided to investigate. Apparently, in 1907 a boy lost his football down a hole in the ground and decided to go down, by rope, to retrieve it. He made the discovery of the first of two limestone caverns which are now a popular tourist sites. Goodness knows how he managed to get out. It is, without lighting, pitch dark down there (as was demonstrated) and flooded.

There are some mighty impressive stalactites and stalagmites on display. You go down about 150 steps and the underground lake is, we were told, 55ft deep. I did both caverns. The second, called 'Fantasy,' which is, frankly, much the same as the first but the name encourages you to pay for the  extra visit!

Then on to one of two golf courses which are situated adjacent to one another. As mentioned previously, I think, there are 7 golf courses on this small island; 5 of which are of International Competition standard. The first I visited was Tucker's Point south of Castle Harbour. Difficult to get a photo of a golf course (too big) but rest assured these are beautifully manicured and challengingly contoured courses. The other being Mid-Ocean. Left: The elegant Clubhouse bar at Tucker's Point. 

I found out that they are rather expensive to play, and I know bugger-all about golf.


The little roads around this neck of the woods are maze-like, and the signage is, to say the least, confusing. Having popped in at the Rosewood Hotel ($5,000,000 per night or thereabouts) near the golf courses and overlooking this charming little cove (right), I saw a sign pointing towards the Rosewood Beach Club. I decided to investigate. After going round in circles for a while, and asking for directions, I eventually found it and it looked a very pleasant watering hole on the beach. I parked my scooter in the vehicle park.
I then saw that there was an entry kiosk manned/womanned by a hatchet faced female watch-dog where 'members' were being asked to show their membership cards.


So pointless, I thought, and merely a small challenge for us professional 'blaggers'. This place is on a beach for goodness sake. All I had to do was walk further away, go down to the beach and walk along it to the Club, bypassing the kiosk.

It has a pleasant bar and I ordered a beer. I was asked for my membership number to be billed. I said I didn't have one so the charming barman said "well, we don't take cash so just sign this receipt and we'll sort it out later". I told him I didn't have a pen, so he gave me a rather smart silver one. He served me the beer and told me I could keep the pen. I spent a bit of time in the bar watching another World Cup footer match then went back the way I had come. I still have the pen. I will return it when I go back to pay the bill.

Next day was Carnival Day which involved a parade of floats on St. David's island. This is a relatively new event on the island. Although the island is 'British' in history and tradition and still celebrates the Queen's birthday, as they did with a parade in Hamilton earlier, there is a growing appetite amongst the black population to become 'Caribbean' in outlook.

The parade consisted of a mile long convoy of floats blasting out deafening music which were accompanied by crowds of 'revellers' dressed up in colourful feathery outfits. They set off along the route cavorting and posing (for the likes of me). It was a hot day and, as I soon discovered, the few cafés and bars along it did not sell alcohol. It was banned for the day. No beer! A man could die for lack of it under these conditions. Many of the locals had, wisely (they knew the form), set up picnic tables and were presumably well supplied with suitable refreshment. I was not.

Left: There were some very elaborately costumed ladies on display.

Right: Even a few pets were appropriately kitted out.













Left: The girls were always willing to pose with interlopers.













..........and they came in all shapes and sizes. Difficult to tell which was front or back in some cases.


















Left: A rather serious and well dressed marcher.

They marched, danced and cavorted slowly one way from about 11.00am to 1.00pm and then went for a communal lunch on a piece of open ground near the airport. I took this opportunity to go and find a bar for some emergency refuelling.

I went back for the return trip. Same as before but in the opposite direction. They didn't seem any the worse for their lunchtime refreshments. Perhaps the music from the billion-megawatt speakers on the floats had become just a little louder.

Left: Another jolly group.

Right: More of the same. I got carried away and took far too many photos. It was a most colourful display and the participants had obviously gone to great lengths, effort, not to mention expense, to dress up for the occasion.

The whole affair was conducted with great efficiency, charm and happiness and absolutely no drunken or drug fuelled bad behaviour so favoured by some of our debauched Western imitations. Even the smiley local police entered into the spirit of the occasion and were very helpful; in my case when finding somewhere to park and where to go. All credit deserved. 

Left: I spoke to this guy. He is a bus driver in real life.

Interestingly, at Wahoo's later that evening, I commented to a local white Bermudian that there were very few white folk attending this carnival. The reply was that white Bermudians are not that keen on what they see as the 'Caribbeanisation' of Bermuda. Bermuda is not Caribbean! Not yet a problem maybe, but potentially the cause of some disquiet.

So that was the Carnival. A jolly day out despite lack of beer. Probably good for me.

I think I will be off on a trip to the capital, Hamilton, next.

MORE BERMUDA

15th - 16th June 2018

Fort St Catherine

It was a 2 mile walk up to the north-east point of the island to Fort St Catherine. There are numerous forts on strategic points around the islands. Most were originally constructed in the 17th century but added to and enlarged up to the end of the 19th century. The restored Fort St Catherine is a good example and is a bit like Dr Who's Tardis. Looks small outside from the landside, but has several underground floors housing magazines, armouries and soldiers' quarters with associated facilities and four levels above including a museum.

Right: Much more impressive from the sea. I took this on a later trip by ferry down to The Naval Dockyard.

Amongst other weaponry and gun emplacements it housed 16 of these monster cannons on two levels (left). They were made and used in the 19th century and fired shells weighing 400 lbs from a 10" calibre barrel up to a max range of 5 miles (but mostly effective at only 1000yds, I read). Manned by the British Royal Artillery I expect their accuracy conformed to the 'Gunners'  motto of 'Ubique' i.e. the rounds fell 'anywhere' and their nickname of 'Drop-shorts'

There are more modern, 2nd World War era, emplacements with Bofor's guns or similar.

Right: This poor photo of a poster shows one 'in action'. The shells were hoisted up from the magazines below by rope operated lifts. I would not have liked to be the loader. I also note that they did not wear ear-defenders. Speak up Cpl Jones!

Left: More of these, or similar, guns on the top level.













Right: Tobacco Bay which I passed by on the way up. It has a typical and popular public beach with bars and loud music.

I took the ferry from St George's over to the the Royal Naval Dockyard on the western tip. It is a 45 minute journey. The Dockyard was built around 1809 and remained operational until 1951. The main buidings consist of the barracks, Clocktower, Cooperage and the vast Commissioner's House and Naval HQ. 

Left: The Clocktower building. This is now an enormous 'shopping mall' with restaurants and even a cinema. The tower on the left houses a clock. The tower on the right houses a type of clock showing the times of high tides (or did).

The Dockyard is now the main tourist attraction on the island and the destination of mammoth cruise liners, mostly full of Americans, such as this floating city (right). There were 3 of them berthed while I was there. It was also the site for the 2017 America's Cup yacht races.

The Commissioner's House and Naval HQ is an enormous oblong building with verandas on each level at one side of a large parade square around which are old munitions buildings and warehouses. These buildings now house the National Museum of Bermuda. For some reason I have, much to your disappointment?, lost my photos of these. Must have pushed the wrong button. The museum includes a multi-room basement detailing the history of the British military occupation and the present Royal Bermuda Regiment. Upstairs on various floors are further exhibitions in elegant rooms mainly to do with seafaring exploits. Quite impressive.

Left: Around the top is a fortified area with several old gun emplacements.

........and a beach below.

Within the precinct of the Commissioner's House and HQ there is a large pool, the Keep Pond, containing, I think 6 or maybe 8 (difficult to count), bottle-nose dolphins known as 'Dolphin Quest'. On offer is a range of 'in-water' activities alongside these creatures. For example, for $800 you can be a dolphin trainer for the day. Train them to do what I wonder? Do your ironing?  Well, don't know about you, but I can think of many more amusing and less time consuming ways of spending $800!

Have you ever tried to take photos of dolphins leaping out of the water? I have previously in New Zealand. It is a most frustrating business. Sure, they swim round and round and occasionally leap energetically, and in formation, into the air but when you point the camera at them coming up, by the time the lens has auto-focused they are underwater again. This shot (left) is the closest I got. What a waste of time and why bother........

.......when you can get any number of professionally taken photos from the internet! It saves hanging around for half an hour with nothing to show for it.

There are lots of bars and restaurants around here. I chose to have lunch (shepherd's pie and chips) at a pub/restaurant called the Frog and Onion (left). Decent enough place. Pie and chips $20, US pint of beer $14 plus, as was normally the case elsewhere, they kindly mention at the bottom of the menu 'for your convenience a 17% gratuity will be added to your bill'. Convenience?! Plus they expect a tip! Maybe the filthy rich American tourists are used to this sort of 'convenience'. 

Right: A row of British telephone kiosks. The telephones inside do actually work...and no helpful stickers advertising the services of 'Miss Whiplash', or 'buxom blonde offering discreet massage' etc. with or without a 17% gratuity.

Left: A selection of shops in the Clocktower Mall. They get busy with the cruise ship passengers until about 4.30pm then, after a few loud 'whoop whoop' noises from the ships' foghorns all the passengers scurry back to their floating palaces and bugger off.

It means that the last ferry departing goes only to Hamilton at about 5.00pm which I caught and no connecting ferry to St.George's. Got to Hamilton for a brief stop in time to watch the Spain v Portugal World Cup footer match in a 'sports bar' and then got a bus back to St.George's.

Quite an amusing day out.

A friend of my host owns a fancy speed-boat. He very generously took us for a day trip around the northern part of the island calling in at various beaches. The navigation around the islands is quite complicated and infested by reefs and semi-submerged rocks (as Admiral Sir George Somers found out in 1609).

Left: An amusing little gold statue of a mermaid on a rock.

We passed several smart villas. This one (right) had it's run-around boat hoisted above water at the bottom of the garden.

........and this one (left) belongs to a well known ex-US Presidential candidate and used as a small holiday home.

There is an uncountable number of beautiful and pristine coves and beaches at which you can swim and have picnics. The water around the island is crystal clear and ranges in colour, depending on the depth, from a cerulean blue to a pale turquoise. The sand tends to be soft and fine; bright white with, sometimes, a pink tinge. All very attractive. It is a snorkeler's and diver's paradise. 

There are two types of sea bird which are indigenous (amongst others of course) to the island and I don't think exist anywhere else. Needless to say I didn't take these birdy photos!

Left: The Cahow, a type of petrel. They live in burrows on some of the uninhabited islands. They were/are seriously endangered.

Right: The Bermuda Longtail. We saw a lot of them. Don't know where they hang out but I believe spend much of their life flying off-shore. Considering the price of accommodation on the island I don't blame them.

My host is a keen rower. On one occasion his  plus other boats rowed from St.George's harbour to a jetty near the Chapel of Ease on St.David's island to be 'blessed' after a church service. It is an annual tradition; 'The Blessing of the Boats'. I was now mobile on a scooter and due to turn up for this service which featured the notorious St.George's Salvation Army Band. Needless to say I got lost, missed the service, but arrived in time to see the Bishop of Bermuda blessing the boats and annointing them with Holy Water.

Right: The Bish. He is called Nick Dill and was previously a lawyer in London. He went to Oundle School and is a most charming and entertaining chap. He was assisted by the local chaplain, The Rev.Thomas Slawson, from Maryland, USA.

On running out of 'Holy Water' he got a lady to fill up his Holy Chalice from a half empty bottle of water she was carrying. Being possibly rather religious she protested that it was not Holy Water. He told her curtly "well it is now ".

He proceeded to 'bless' any boat of whatever size pulled in and gave them a certificate to prove it. He gave me one too as a souvenir, and I'm wondering what to do with it.

Left: A little child's sailing dingy that got given the treatment, as did many others.

.....and afterwards for tea and cakes in the Village Hall. Right: A few of those present which included Harold, originally from Wales, and William, a Bermudian, who spent some time (late 1950s) doing National Service in UK with the Royal Signals whom he represented in the 400 metres hurdles in army athletics.

I seem to be taking rather a long time to finish these reports nowadays. Sheer idleness, and I have yet to report on the Carnival and the Gumbay dancers in Hamilton. Stand-by for yet more.