VIENNA. CITY OF DREAMS

26th - 28th Mar 202

Looking south from the Donauturm over the Danube and 'low-rise' Vienna.

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I believe this city is nicknamed 'City of Dreams' thanks to the influence of the late local 'shrink' Sigmund Freud.

....Or possibly due to the proliferation of these dope shops (left), of which I saw at least three. They seem to be popular and plentiful here as I also noticed last year in Portugal and Poland. They haven't yet caught on in UK possibly because the inhabitants are deemed 'dopey' enough already.

Our rabble (right) assembled at the Nuremburg Hbf at 10.00am to catch the 11.01 ICE train to Vienna. It was delayed until 11.30. So it's not just British trains that get delayed. Our tickets were checked regularly by rather officious inspectors. 

Arrived Vienna at 3.15pm and bus to the Hotel Ananas which was comfortable but pathetic WiFi in rooms, or at least in mine.

Then on a group march to see the local sights and to get our bearings. The hotel was at the southern end of town. We were taken around to the local Metro station and it seems that most of the Metro system in Vienna is undergoing renovations with many roadworks in evidence as a result, especially around our hotel. 

The walk towards the centre took us through the expansive 'nachtmarkt' (left) which has four long lines of stalls selling fruit, veg, cakes and sweets plus numerous bars and restaurants. As it turned out the restaurants were rather good (if a bit expensive).

The large Metro station, Karlsplatz (right) was at the northern end of the market. There are several entry points and tram/bus stops over a large area and some had this rather attractive 'art deco' frontage. Pity about the scruffy graffiti. Talking of which, who does all this graffiti, and why?...so common around all stations and on hoardings in all countries. I have never seen, met or even heard of a graffitist (apart from the talented Banksy). Who are they, what is the point of it (the unartistic ones) and what pleasure does it give to those responsible? Answers please! 

The underground Metro system around the city is excellent and easy to use, but the tram and bus system is very confusing and difficult to locate the correct stops.

Just north of this (left) is the gothic style St Charles Church (Karlskirche) which was completed in 1737 (it took over 20 years to build) and was to commemorate the end of the last plague at the beginning of that century. No graffiti there!

We walked back to the hotel for another 'communal' supper at a nearby restaurant. I was seated between a bloke whose only interest and topic of conversation was football, and a lady who never spoke a word. I noticed on the train that she and her husband read The Guardian. Opposite me was a very eccentric man who had been a 'therapist' and judo instructor (long retired) and was now 'into' Germanic culture. He was teetotal and a vegan. As you can imagine we didn't have a lot in common. The food was OK.

The next day featured a bus tour followed by a walking tour of the city conducted by an enthusiastic Austrian lady guide. She said she and her family had only lived in Vienna for 30 years so she cannot be considered properly 'Viennese'. We were all issued with 'Vox' boxes with earpieces to listen to her commentary while on foot. She spared no effort in talking....rarely taking the chance to take a breath it seemed! Verbal diarrhea! The trouble with these non-stop talks giving constant minute detail is that, especially on the bus, it is difficult to assimilate it all and see what she is describing, especially her encyclopedic descriptions of the very complicated Austrian/European history since the middle ages. Our group looked suitably baffled.

Shortly after leaving the hotel she said we should look out for the 'cabbages'. I looked out to no avail. Her accent, not being perfect, she meant 'carriages' ie. posh horses and carts towing, at vast cost, weathy tourists around the streets. There were indeed many of these.

Left: Our first port of call was the impressive 'baroque' Belvedere Palace, built 1723, located to the south-east of the old town. It is, as with so much architecture in this town, a most impressive building.

Right: The palace gardens to the city (north) side were supposedly intended as a smaller version of those at Versailles, Paris. They looked a rather scruffy version to my untrained eye. The grass needed cutting....as does mine at home.

The Palace itself includes stables (probably with 'cabbages') and houses a museum displaying, amongst much else, many works by the famous Viennese artist Gustav Klimpt, including his best known daubing 'The Kiss' (Der Kuss). We did not go in. Why bother? I can easily see his pictures merely by looking them up. I will also save my reader the bother. So here is his 'The Kiss' (left).

His other paintings all look rather similar in style and colouring.  

Right: The Viennese Parliament building located on the Ringstrasse Boulevarde to the west of the city centre. Another fine piece of architecture. We just drove past it.

Left: A line of 'cabbages' outside the entrance to the Hofburg Palace.

Right: The grand entrance to the Hofburg Palace and other regal buildings from the Habsburg, Austro-Hungarian and regal periods of the likes of Emperor Franz-Josef etc. The history of this part of the world is very complicated and our 'guide' tried to explain some of it....but too much for me to take in!

Left: (not my photo). Inside here is the home of the Spansh Riding School and their stables. Another Habsburg invention which features grey Lipizzaner horses ridden by elaborately dressed riders poncing about an arena to display their OTT dressage skills. They go on tours worldwide. I visited to watch a display many years ago so didn't join the queue to see it again. They now have women riders. What is the world coming to!?

Right: At the far end are the quarters of the late Empress Elizabeth (nickname Lisi) who was married at the age of 16 to Emperor Franz Joseph. She was assassinated, by a nutter, in Geneva, Switzerland, in 1898 aged 60. She was a very popular Empress, apparently.

On the right of the photo is the entrance to the main Palace.

Left: Just outside (to the left of the photo above) is the Neueburg wing of the Palace (was the Town Hall) with what is now considered an 'infamous' balcony. From this balcony in March 1938 a Mr A. Hitler gave his rousing speech to cheering Austrians when he announced that his 'birth country' had been incorporated into the Third Reich; an event known as the Anschluss. Nobody is now allowed to use the balcony. I believe the building is presently a museum.

Right: The grand State Opera House at the southern end of Kärnter Strasse in the city centre. Austria is renowned for its classical music and was home to various famous composers such as Mozart, Liszt, Haydn, Schubert, Strauss and Benny Goodman, amongst others. I can't remember what is showing at the moment. Not, I suspect, Mary Poppins. It is normally difficult and expensive to get tickets.

Left: I can't remember what this building is. I just show it as another example of the varied elegant architecture which features throughout this city.  I passed it en-route to the very large, smart and efficient city centre main Post Office. Why do foreign countries (ie. not UK) take such pride in their main Post Offices (see Saigon and Taipei as typical examples). The UK just has scruffy and inefficient little establishments with long queues.

* I have just been informed by that admirable and alert 'research' organisation 'OMPITA' that the building above is the 'Greek Church of the Holy Trinity'. Well I never.

Right: Flanagan's 'Oirish' bar. A decent pit-stop and featured two amusing and genuinely Irish barmen! We discussed the forthcoming Irish Grand National over a pint of Guinness. They told me there are quite a few Irish working in Vienna.

Left: No idea what this statue is, somewhere in the centre. I took the photo because it looked appealing and forgot to note what it represented. However, the research team at the invaluable OMPITA organisation  (they tirelessly monitor my blog) came up with the following:

The Plague Column (German: die Wiener Pestsäule), or Trinity Column (German: Dreifaltigkeitssäule), is a Holy Trinity column located on the Graben, a street in the inner city of Vienna, Austria. Erected after the Great Plague epidemic in 1679.

Right: St.Stephen's Cathedral in Stephansplatz. It was built mid-14th century and is the central point of Vienna. It is possible to climb, 256 steps, up the large spire. Good views I'm sure, but I didn't bother; went up the Donauturm instead.

Left: I saw this rather charming sand sculpture somewhere on Kärntner Strasse. It was skilfully done and the chap who did it said it had taken him a couple of hours to complete. It would wash away overnight. I was impressed and being incredibly generous I put 50 cents in his hat. 

Right: There are several monstrosities such as McDonalds and other US franchises around town. Their frontages are at least relatively subdued compared to other places. 

Left: The statue of Field Marshall Carl Phillip zu Schwartzenberg (1771-1820) in Schwartenberg Platz, near Flannagan's Irish Bear (see above). This famous soldier led the Austrian army to defeat Napoleon at the Battle of Leipzig in 1813 and then marched on to Paris. He is a much revered character in Austrian history. I wonder if he visited Flanagan's for a fortifying pint of Guinness on the way.

Right: The monument to the occupying Russians (a Russian soldier is on top holding a shiny golden shield) who vacated Vienna in 1955. It is somewhat controversial as you can imagine. There is some sort of agreement with the Rooskies to keep it there and it is guarded 24hrs a day to prevent 'hostile' attention. The Ukrainian colours are draped along the low wall of the colonnade behind it.

Left: The entrance to the Military Museum (Kriege Museum) in the Arsenal complex near The Belvedere Palace to the south-east of the city. I took a look inside. It is a large multi-room two storey display featuring an enormous amount of military equipment, uniforms, weapons, portraits and diagrams of military campaigns from the early Habsburg days (13th century) up to the 1st World War. 

Nearly all the weapons and uniforms etc. were immaculate and either imitations, reconstructions or over-renovated with few 'original' bits left. That is not my idea of a museum display!

Left: A map of the Habsburg empire between 1788-91. The amount of wars, changing alliances and who governed what land in this part of the world over a long history is, to my unacademic mind, utterly baffling. 

Right: A 1st World War German/Austrian large calibre (35cm?) artillery piece. It was in pristine condition. Rebuilt perhaps? It would have been more impressive if it had looked a bit battered and scarred as though it had seen some 'action'.

The only recognisably original exhibit was this car (left). It is the one in which Archduke Franz Ferdinand, and Mrs Ferdinand, were travelling in Sarajevo, June 1914, when both were assassinated by a Serb called Gavrilo Princip. PS. Note the number plate: A 111118 (date of the end of WW1). A curious coincidence?

Apparently I had been standing too close to it to get this photo and briefly set off an alarm. I had walked away but was accosted by a dragon of a security woman who was extremely rude and aggressive and threatened me with being chucked out or perhaps jailed for life from what little I could understand from her screeching! I was about to tell her I recognised her as Rosa Klebb (SMERSH) from the James Bond film, but thought better of it. Not the way to encourage visitors if you ask me! These little self-important over-reacting 'Germanic' dictatorial functionaries have no social graces. Same applies to many of the Austrian/German 'officials' in uniform.

I wish I could have shown her the 'amended' photo (right) sent to me by trusty 'OMPITA".

Left: The entrance to the impressive looking 'Arsenal' building in front of the museum. It was completely empty inside.

Right: Another elegant fountain and statue. Haven't a clue what it represents. Another test for OMPITA! 

Yes! They came up with the answer as always. It is the Donnerbrunnen, or Thunder Statue located in Neuermarkt Platz. Completed in 1739. 

Look it up if you want further details!

I called in at one of the smart coffee shops in town, Sluka Café, near Stephansplatz. The most famous being the Café Sacher which invented the famous 'sacher-torte' cake. This and countless other sticky cakes and elaborate coffees are provided in many other establishments now. They are pleasant places but not exactly cheap! Left: A portion of sacher-cake (chocolate with apricot jam and cream). Very healthy.

On a whim I decided to visit the Museum of Illusions, fairly hidden away in the east of the centre. There was a long queue to get in. Indeed the City, especially the centre, was fairly packed with tourists with many flag wielding tourist guides and their following groups. This museum was not particularly impressive. Not a patch on the 'Art in Paradise' museum in Pattaya, Thailand. (See blog from December 2019). It consists mainly of wall-mounted optical illusions with one or two inter-active 'experiences'. Right: This picture was entirely unrecognisable to the naked eye, just coloured stickers, but showed this only when taken with a camera.

Left: If you enlarge this you will see that the horizontal lines are all straight and parallel.

Onwards by Metro to the 827ft high Donauturm (Danube Tower) radio mast (right). It stands in a large park to the north of the city across the River Danube with its long (21km) artificial island, a popular place for beaches and swimming in the summer.

There is a large observation deck and restaurant upstairs. Good views over the city to the south (see photo at top).

Left: ...and a view looking north to the park below.

For some reason unbeknown to me there is an area near the entrance to the Tower dedicated to several statues and busts of Cuban and South American leaders, explorers, invaders and revolutionaries. This one (right) is of Che Guevara.

Left: Up on the top observation/restaurant deck there is the entrance to a glass sided slide which spirals down the outside of the building. It costs 5 Euros for a go. Of course I couldn't resist.

Right: They take a photo of you on the way down (another 5 Euros to print it). It was rather exhilarating..........

Left: ...and I finished up for a snack and glass of wine in the café.

On the way back to my hotel I stopped for supper at one of the restaurants in the Nachtmarkt (see above somewhere). I ordered a large plate of mussels with a very rich sauce. It was delicious (and expensive). It was later that evening I began to suffer with chronic indigestion!

That was about all I had time for in the couple of days I was in Vienna, and I wasn't rushing. There are so many other museums, parks, palaces, exhibitions, music venues, grand restaurants and smart shops etc. etc. and it would take weeks to see them all. Altogether a very smart, elegant and interesting city with remarkably ostentatious architecture.

Off tomorrow (29th) by train to Prague with our 'fuhrer' and 'gang'.

 

TRAIN AGAIN - NUREMBURG

24th Mar 2024

I  am off on an 'escorted' train journey through Europe. As you may have gathered previously I much prefer travelling 'solo' and not so keen on being 'escorted' in a group (or travelling with anyone else for that matter!). However, I have done one of these before, several years ago, and found it interesting and well organised; through Switzerland on the 'Glacier Express' back in 2019 if I remember correctly. It was about the other people on the trip which interested me as much as the scenery! Anyway, a rush of blood to the head prompted me to give it another go.

So here goes! We were due to meet up at St Pancras Railway Station (London) near the Sir John Betjeman statue (left) early Monday morning to catch the EuroStar train to Brussels. I spent Sunday night at a 'reasonably by London standards' priced (ie. very expensive by my standards) hotel near St Pancras.

Well, we did report in from 7.15am onwards (on Monday 25th) in dribs and drabs to our 'Tour Manager' John. All most efficient, like escorting schoolchildren on a school trip. EuroStar tickets had already been provided and now an Interail Pass for European trains.

There were vast queues at the EuroStar check-in, but they moved quickly and with quite perfunctory checks through security and passport, UK and French, controls, in good time to board the 9.01am train to Brussels.

At this stage I hadn't met up with any of my fellow travellers; just seen some of them in the distance. We all assembled on the platform on arrival at Brussels. I think there are 25 of us. Lots of 'briefings' by John on the forthcoming trip, who was smartly dressed in jacket and tie. He is Scottish. Details of each day's travel and activities had already been e-mailed to us. Slips of paper with our next carriage and seat number were handed out. As said, all most efficient.

There was a 2 hour wait at Brussels which enabled visits to the local cafés; in my case for a snack and beer, before the next train, a comfortable ICE machine, left for Frankfurt and arrived there on time at 5.28pm. From Frankfurt to Nuremburg arriving 8.30pm, then a quick group march to the nearby Intercity Hotel for a communal supper and then bed (not communal!) interspersed with yet more 'briefings' in Scottish by the redoubtable John. I'm not so keen on these 'communal' meals which involve sitting next to someone you don't know and probably don't have anything in common with. However, these meals are pre-paid as part of the trip expense so silly to miss them!

I have yet to suss-out my fellow travelling companions....but most of the 25 (appox, difficult to count) are (like me!) in the 60/70 yr age bracket. I'm not sure if I have identified any kindred spirits so far. More to follow on that subject as we travel onwards.

The next morning (Tuesday 26th) after a very decent hotel breakfast (included, as explained, as were some of the meals in the price of this holiday) there was time for a 'solo' cursory wander through the 'Old Town' of Nuremburg. I only had 50mins to do this before parading for the onward train journey at 10.00am.

My start point was at the front of Nuremburg Main Station, then across the road to the Königstor, #8 at bottom right of the map (right, click on to enlarge). Thence north up Königsallee ending at the Burg fort at the top left. It was less than a mile.

Left: The 'grand' front entrance to the main railway station. Much more impressive than any UK railway stations.

There was no time to enter, let alone explore, any of the places I passed. So this is a quick resumé of the notable sights.

Right: The Konigstor. It had an entrance for visitors. I don't know what is inside. Konigs?

Left: A typical 'ye olde' cobbled street and restaurant inside this walled old city.

Right: I passed three impressive churches out of the eight mentioned on the 'map'. They are obviously 'big' on vast churches here. 

I attach photos in the order of the churches I passed from south to north. I didn't note which ones they were. You might be able to identify them from the 'map' above. If, indeed, you can be bothered or in the slightest interested.

Left: The first church. The stall in front was selling lace embroidery, or knickers or somesuch.

Right: The second church. Big tower.

Left: The third church.

Right: An elaborate memorial to something or other around the back of the third church.

Left: On the way up there was an ancient building advertising 'medieval dungeon tours'. If I had had more time I might have gone in.

Right: I also passed by this impressive market stall display selling sticky cream cakes and biscuits. I spoke to the lady stallholder and asked her how long it took to set up this elaborate display and how likely was she to sell them all? She told me it took about an hour to set up, starting at 7.00am, and it depended on the weather as to how many she sold in the day, On a fine day she hoped to sell nearly all of them. On a rainy day she sells few. The creamy cakes would only keep for a couple of days, max. Good luck to her. Rather her than me!

Left: The Burg fortress at the northern end.

I then hastened back to the Hauptbahnhof to meet up with our 'group' at 10.00am. The efficient John always insists that we meet up 30 mins before train departure time which, in this case, was scheduled at 10.31, and hands out our seat numbers. We are always in the same carriage. He counts us meticulously. I don't know what he would do if somone was missing. Right: Some of the group. John centre.

So, on to Vienna...........

TAIPEI FINALE AND HOME

 2nd - 5th Jan 2024

My travels took me from Taipei (top) anti-clockwise around the island.

I arrived at Ho Chi Minh (Tan Son Nhat) airport at 9pm on New Year's Day for a 1.00am flight back to Taipei. It was to be a rather sleepless night and following day as I could not book into my cheapo hotel in Taipei until 3.00pm. Anyway it all went according to plan and I eventually relaxed in a pleasant café (called Oumi) near the hotel where I spent some time fiddling about on my computer. On getting into my hotel room I found that I had lost the lead to recharge my phone. It could only have been in the café. I went back and the lady there said she hadn't seen it. Oh damn and blast! As it happened, on going back there for a cup of coffee and a sticky bun the next morning, it was handed to me, without me even asking, neatly wrapped in a plastic bag. During the course of my time in Taiwan I had stupidly left three other items (my guide book, my notebook and another electric lead) at different locations. On thinking where they might be I went back and all were handed to me. Or, at Baihe as described previously, they phoned my hotel to tell me my notebook had been found. The Taiwanese are incredibly honest and helpful!

For my final full day in the city I wandered around and then decided to visit the University area which is to the south of the centre. Taiwan has several top-class universities with no less than five in Taipei; the most prestigious being the National Taiwan University which attracts many foreign students. Left: The tree-lined avenue leading up to the library of the National Taiwan Museum.

There are some splendid parks around this area and, advertised in my guide book, Riverside bars in the Gongguan  area on the banks of the tributary River Xindian. I wandered over for a look.

Right: The line of bars and cafés along the photogenic riverside. This is not my photo. When I passed by (mid-afternoon) they were all closed and shuttered! Maybe because of the New Year holiday, or perhaps they opened later in the evening.

Left: Also nearby is an area, on a hill, known as 'Treasure Hill Artist Village'.

Right: It comprises steep  steps  leading up to a rabbit-warren of narrow passageways with many galleries, studios, workshops and cafés. I was told it is hive of student-oriented activity featuring exhibitions, art installations and impromptu dance performances with light shows and things happening on the green at the foot of the village. When I got there everything was closed! (apart from a guard-post). I suspect the 'students' are all still on holiday.

I ambled up and through this almost deserted 'village' to the main street through Gongguan. As with most streets there are wall-to-wall cafés serving, mainly, noodle dishes. I can't think why there are so many and all so similar. 

However, almost hidden away between these cafés is a bar; the Bitter-Sweet Bar (left). It is only marked by a small illuminated sign above an unprepossessing door and I found it by accident. I went in. What an amusing place! The two barmen, one of whom was called Bob, from Burma (Myanmar), were hilarious and even generous with free drinks. I got chatting with a most engaging couple; a charming French girl studying at the university for a 'Masters Degree' in mathematics and (not sure if he was her boyfriend) a Taiwanese chap called Lucas. They were great company. I had to leave before, as Bob advised me, I got 'wobbly'!

I made my way back, not too wobbly, by Metro and after an evening coffee at the Oumi café went to my hotel before leaving for home the following morning. That about sums up my visit to Taiwan. I'm sure I will have missed out on several interesting sights and subsequent observations. 

Aspects which I may not have mentioned (it seems a long time ago when I started these 'diaries' and I've mostly forgotten what I have written previously) are:

1. The lethal slippery marble-like surfaces of many pavements when they are wet (which was often the case).

2. The Taiwan sports scene. It seems to revolve, as I saw on TV, around Baseball and Snooker. I did see a couple of large Baseball grounds. Right: Taipei Baseball Stadium (not my photo!).

3. All the cheap hotels I stayed in had one significant improvement on hotels in most other countries. The bedside lights all had gently illuminated light switches. This meant that if you got up for a pee in the middle of the night, you weren't blindly thrashing around, with devastating effects, to switch the lights on. I can't think why this obviously helpful 'aid' is not available, if not compulsory, in all hotels.

The next morning, 4th January, I caught the MRT express train back to the airport (Terminal 2 this time) for my China Southern Airlines flight, initially a 1hr 30min flight to Guangzhou, China. Then a 19 hour hold-over before the flight on back to London Heathrow. It was similar to my hold-over at this airport on the way out which I described, with photos, in the 'blog' at the beginning of December. The only difference being that I used, to max advantage, the excellent facilities (apart from no 'Google') at China Southern CIP Lounge on two occasions; 4.30pm to Midnight when they close, and 4.30am to near my departure time at 12.15pm. I even got a bit of sleep.

One small 'incident' occurred. Following a thoroughly chaotic and intrusive baggage search on passing through to the transfer area, I found, after being happily ensconced in the CIP Lounge, I had lost due to all the unpacking and searching of my bags and clothes, another vital electric charging lead. I risked going back (after an hour) to the search area in the vain hope of seeing if they had found it. I was confronted by a very officious security lady who insisted on taking my passport and boarding card. I thought this could mean trouble! There was much shouting and gesticulating and I thought I was going to have a big problem here. As it happened I was shouted at to go to a side area where another security officer handed me the missing lead! I hugged him in gratitude, and my passport etc. were handed back to me. A small miracle.

The 12hr 30min flight back to LHR was uneventful and reasonably comfortable as I had been allocated, free of charge, a seat at one of the emergency exits with extra leg room. On getting to my seat I found the Captain's hat on it. Why it was there I have no idea. After trying it on I made sure it was returned to him.

We arrived at LHR at 5.15pm local time. It was dark, wet, cold and miserable. Terminal 4 was typical LHR mayhem and I really wondered whether I was in New Delhi. On getting to Terminal 2 I eventually caught a bus (£15) to the town of Reading from which I hoped to connect with a train to my home town. No such luck! All trains had been cancelled due to 'floods'. The British rail system is never prepared for a bit of rain, wind, snow or ice if, indeed, the train drivers are not on strike.

Left: A comparison in Taiwan.

At last I found a bus which took me to a town near my home town. No further public transport thereafter. I am lucky to have a helpful neighbour who drove out to collect me and I got home at about 10.00pm Phew!

Well, it is SO NICE to be back in jolly old UK. 😧 Where next?

RETURN TO TAIPEI AND ONWARDS

 21st Dec 2023 - 2nd Jan 2024

Taipei 101 Tower by night

On north by 'fast' train up the east coast, and return to Taipei. It was a 2hr 29min journey (spot on time as always). I had decided to give the city of Keelung, on the northern coast, a miss. I suspected it did not have a lot to offer that I had not already experienced, and the weather up this end of the island was still rather overcast, damp and coldish. The rail journey passed along and through similar forested mountainous and hilly scenery as previous, including some rather dull looking 'industrial' towns. One coastal area was, interestingly, called 'Honeymoon Bay'. My guide book informed me that there was 'good surfing' along this north-east coast, but that was not on my agenda! After some slow going with numerous suburban stops we reached the Main Station in Taipei (the enormous hi-tech maze previously described) at 2.47pm and I checked into another 'relatively' cheap hotel a bit of a walk north-east of the Station.

Left: After much searching, I found another 'Oirish Bear' within walking distance of the hotel. It was a fairly decent, if unremarkable, pub but served good western food and, of course, Guinness. As I think I have mentioned, decent bars are difficult to find in this country. Being the 21st December I celebrated  'Sahagun Day' here (I'll let you work that out).

I had read that there is an interesting area surrounding what is called The Red House. I went to the Red House which was near the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial compound. It was the 'wrong' Red House. This one was a two storey museum dedicated to the 19th century production of camphor and opium. It was not very interesting. The 'correct' Red House (right) was to the east of the city centre near the river (Tamsui) and the Beimen Metro station. 

This attractive octagonal red-brick building was built by the Japanese over 100 years ago and was the hub of the city's shopping centre. It is now still surrounded by many shops, stalls and cafés. Inside there is an theatre upstairs, and downstairs an indoor market (left). 

It sells all sorts of knick-knacks amongst some expensive jewellery and clothes stalls.

Right: I saw these interesting 'squashed' whisky and wine bottles which served as dishes and, I thought, rather attractive. I might have bought one if a) I wasn't luggage limited and b) They weren't so expensive! I bought a T-shirt instead.

Left: Another photo of passengers inside a Metro train. I reckon about 80% of Taiwanese still wear the dreaded face-masks. As explained by the barman in Hualien, it is a feature of 'Herd Mentality'. It is also rare to see anyone not glued to their smart-phones! I never did find out what they were all looking at. I noticed several 'video games' being played. 

That evening I found another watering-hole, a 'whisky bar' called The Buckskin'  which was almost next door to my hotel. None of these bars appear to open before about 8.30pm. It was quite pleasant. I enjoyed a glass of Whiskey Highball, otherwise known, in UK, simply as Whisky and Soda, and a meal of calamari salad.

Having spent three weeks circumnavigating Taiwan I decided to have a 'holiday within a holiday' and go to my old stomping ground in Vietnam for Christmas and New Year. I know from experience that the Vietnamese are somewhat at the other end of the spectrum of 'entertainment' to the Taiwanese. They enjoy a good party and certainly Christmas (the origin and traditions of which they know little but who cares) and New Year provide an excellent opportunity for a very joyous blow-out. 

I managed to get a suitable competitively priced return flight with Vietjet Airlines and set off on the evening of the 23rd to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). Finding the platform for the 'express' MRT train to the airport involved another confusing navigation through the Disorientating Maze at the Main Station. I made it eventually. 

Left: The gleaming interior of Terminal 1 at Taipei International Airport. I had arrived far too early, as is my wont, was efficiently passed through 'check-in' and 'security' with no faffing about as at UK airports (no nonsense with liquids etc). My cabin bag was a bit 'overweight' but I was told they would overlook that. I had time to make use of the 'CIP' Lounge in departures. Great value and as much as you could eat and drink for £24 equivalent. I definitely got my money's worth!

Right: The unavoidable..............!

I have covered Vietnam, and Saigon in particular, in great detail in previous blogs (this time last year is one example) so will not go over it all again. Suffice to say that it lived up to my expectations. I attach below some photos of this visit and of course I did lots of other (respectable I hasten to add) things not mentioned here. The first difference you notice on arrival here is the weather. Taiwan was cool and often drizzly and rainy. In the South of Vietnam (ie. Saigon) it is very warm; between 30º- 35ºc, with the occasional short-lived and heavy downpour. 

Below: The Cuban band and jolly singers on the 9th Floor terrace bar at the Caravelle Hotel on Christmas Eve. 

Left: A pretty Vietnamese girl, typical of the nation. I have yet to see a fat one and they dress so attractively!

The 'Western' tourists are often notably fat, covered in tattoos and, if male, scruffily unshaven. I have photo examples but decided not to publish them to save embarrassing anyone accidentally recognising themselves on this blog!

Right: Outside the enormous Ben Thanh market. Was she 'pouting' at me?

Left: The Ho Chi Minh statue outside the City Hall.

A couple here are wearing face-masks. They were the exception to the rule. Unlike Taiwan very few (mainly only tourists) wore them on the streets or inside. They do wear them riding their 'motos' (scooters), but they always have done and this was/is a perceived protection against pollution, not a virus!

Again, another dissimilarity between here and Taiwan is the abundance of cafés, bars and restaurants catering for all tastes of drink and different national cuisines. These hostelries are open all hours and seemingly on every available terrace, roof-top, courtyard and street. Outdoor eating at street restaurants is popular. You never see that in Taiwan. I suppose the warm weather plays a part. The Vietnamese are a much more 'hedonistic' people than the rather 'staid' Taiwanese; very outgoing and more 'risqué'. You would never experience walking down a street in Taiwan and receive that well known Vietnamese greeting "Yoo wan Massaa"! from young ladies outside the many establishments offering restorative relaxation.

Right: Tables prepared for the street-side  evening meals which start being served at about 6.00pm and go on long after I have gone to bed!

Left: They are always packed. The food at these is of a wide Vietnamese variety and both delicious and cheap. 

Right: People flock into the city centre around Christmas and New Year's Eve. Loud 'pop concerts' play with much fire and smoke on Le Loi Boulevard, the main drag through town. The crowds are often noisy but always well behaved. I have yet to witness any bad or 'anti-social' behaviour, let alone violence, in this city. There are police around and all very good natured.

Left: One of many balloon sellers on New Year's Eve.

There was a very loud 'live' pop concert ongoing at the time which featured long haired youths shouting into microphones, tuneless twanging guitars and much banging of drums which, I am informed, is 'heavy metal' music (music?!) or some-such. What a racket!

Right: A happy couple celebrating.

Left: There were several of these 'fire-breathers'. More than last year. It must leave a horrid taste in their mouths and, I would have thought, a certain amount of scorched clothing and eyebrows!

Right: 'Living' statues. I didn't notice any of these last year. It must be catching on.

Left: As per last year I got up to a vantage point on the roof terrace of the Rex Hotel for a good view of the fireworks. This year I lodged myself at a prime position at the edge (just by the 'R' of Rex Hotel in photo) but found myself surrounded by a group of rather loud and 'merry' Glaswegian tourists. You can't escape!

Right: The assembled crowd below on Nguyen Hué Avenue.

Below: The fireworks were launched from near the river at the bottom of Nguyen Hué. As with last year the display went on for about 25 minutes. Last year (and I have the video on a previous blog) the display was truly magnificent. This year, most unfortunately, there must have been a breeze which blew all the smoke directly in front of the fireworks. As such all you saw for the most part was clouds of coloured smoke and heard loud whizzes and bangs. It must have much irritated the organisers to spend so much money, time and effort to have their display (from our side anyway) rather ruined.

Many wealthy Vietnamese groups had booked expensive tables on the rooftop terrace and had enjoyed a sumptuous meal before the display. Once the display was over (and this happened last year so I was poised!) most of the diners left, leaving behind half full bottles of rather good wine. The waiters were just going to throw them away. Well, this was too much to resist! I think the 'merry' Glaswegians also made the most of it.

I had been staying at a marvellous little hotel. You might be interested if you ever go to Saigon. It is called the Thiên Hai Hotel at 220 Ly Thu Trong Street and I have stayed here before. I was greeted on arrival like a long lost friend! It is perfectly placed in the centre of all the tourist areas in and around District 1, most a maximum of 10 minutes walk away. It has very clean and comfortable rooms with good air-con, wide-screen TV, good Wi-Fi, excellent bathroom, coffee-making facilities (with ample supplies of tea and coffee etc.), room cleaned daily, an efficient 'same day' laundry service and a simple buffet breakfast. There is a 24hr 'Family Mart' (mini super-market) next door which is extremely useful. I was here for 10 nights and the total cost, including 3 laundries, was £195 (£19.50 pn). What a bargain! I can't think why people want to spend hundreds of pounds per night at a 'top class/price' hotel (of which there are several in the city) when, frankly, you only need a comfortable place to sleep and wash in and be conveniently located.

Another point of note in this city (and others in Vietnam) is the 'Grab' taxi service (an App on your phone). You can order, on line, a 'Grab' moto (scooter) taxi and they are remarkably cheap and turn up very quickly. I had to visit an old friend in a District which was about 5 miles away. I used the scooter taxi and the journey was quicker than by car of course (dodging the traffic), and it cost about £2! Brilliant.

That is a brief outline of my holiday in Saigon and surrounding area. I returned to Taiwan on a flight which, rather inconveniently, left Ho Chi Minh at 1.00am on the 2nd Jan. I will report back from there following my final few days in this part of the world.