INTRAMUROS. OLD MANILA

10th - ?th Dec 2025

The impressive looking Manila Central Post Office

On a visit to Intramuros I walked to the 'grand' Central Post office (left) which is located to the north-east of the 'walled' city on the south bank of the river Pasig. I was hopeful I might find some postcards here, and it looked promising. However, on closer inspection, this 'grand' building was derelict. It had been completely burnt out in a mammoth fire in 2023. The inside rooms were just abandoned black shells! No time scale for renovation, it appeared.

However, just behind it, and guarded by armed security (as everything is here), was what has taken its place; this little hut (right). So I went in and found a sole lady 'manning' it. She was actually very polite and helpful. I asked, more in hope than expectation, about postcards. She rifled around in a few cupboards and drawers and eventually produced a dusty little cardboard box with some city postcards in it! Amazing! I stayed in this office to write and post them. She said they would take about two weeks to get to the UK. I was dubious. However they did, much to my surprise!

Intramuros (inside the walls) is the historic part of the city. It is bounded by walls, although I didn't see any, and surrounded by the large well kept Rizal Park. 

Left: A photo, not mine, of part of the 'walls'. I never saw any walls. They must have been well hidden, although I was not actually looking for them.

While up in the north part I decided to take a look to the Presidential Palace, Malacañang Palace, which is located on the north side of the Pasig river about 3 kms to the north-east of the Post Office. The President is, as I'm sure you know, the redoubtable Bongbong Marcos. It looked a simple matter of walking down the south side of the river, cross a bridge, and then east along the north side. You must be joking! I got about half a mile down a footpath by the river towards the bridge when it came to a dead end. I had to retrace my steps, take a long detour through the city to get to a road leading to the bridge which had no pedestrian footpath. I walked across anyway, dodging traffic. 

On the north side of the river another hike along various streets until I reached a fenced area surrounding the extensive Palace grounds. There was at least a gate here to enter. Finally reaching the guarded entrance to the actual Palace compound (right) I was told firmly by a well armed sentry "NO ENTRY"! I suspect any visits to see the Palace are only by 'authorised' tours. So, despite my pleas, I made my retreat.

Left: En-route I passed this smart building (in the outer area); the 'Office of the President'. Perhaps I should have rung the bell and spoken to Bongbong.

Right: A better photo taken through the gates.

Left: A pic of the riverside frontage of the Palace which I did not see. Taken on a bright sunny day the like of which I did not see either. Most days I was here, especially in the afternoons, were either cloudy, rain showers or drizzling.

So, a trudge back to the city. Right: There are many of these SM shopping malls throughout the city; this one is just outside Intramuros. They are vast, on 4 or 5 floors, and amongst coffee shops and greasy-spoon restaurants are expensive shops selling all kinds of useless luxury items (handbags, shoes, clothes etc.). Plus medical and dental outlets. I believe 'SM' stems from the 'ShoeMark' brand.

Left: Most seem to have 'characters' hanging about in fancy dress to have your photo taken with for, they hope, a small donation.

As mentioned earlier, there are a lot of 'down-and-outs' on the streets. Some, like this poor old chap (right) obviously severely handicapped and wheeled around by whom I assumed was his elderly wife. I  contributed.

Left: …and another common sight, often on bridges and in underpasses.

On circumventing the Rizal Park, which seemed curiously devoid of any people and not many entry and exit gates, I found (advertised in my guide book) the Bayleaf Hotel which boasts a sky-deck terrace with good views. I went up and indeed on the top floor is a very smart restaurant and open viewing area. 

Below: A view east to the clock tower on the City Hall.

Below: To the south-east a view beyond the pond to the National Museum of Natural History, which I subsequently visited. The rain had started to come down, visibility was reducing, so I decided to have a light meal in the expensive restaurant!

Right: The hotel seems to have a 'commendably woke' event planned!  

\

For some reason this blasted blogging site is now playing up and I can't 'move' the photos. So closing down early and hopefully it will come back to life when I start a continuation of this, and other, well overdue, reports. 

The Sentinel of Freedom, or Lapu Lapu Monument, in Rizal Park near the museums. This monument honours Mr Datu Lapu-Lapu, the first Filipino national hero, who defeated Ferdinand Magellan at the battle of Mactan in 1521.

I decided to wander down to the museum area in the park. There are three of them there; the National Museum of Fine Arts, the National Museum of Anthropology and the National Museum of Natural History. I chose the Natural History one because it was closest and, by now, it was pissing down with rain. I was soaked (no umbrella) and hoped to dry off in there. It has a very grand pillared facade.

There was a long queue of people, mainly children's/students' groups with teachers, waiting patiently on the steps up to the entry. I employed my normal technique of just walking around to nearly the front of the queue, waving to someone, and joined them. Nobody ever objects! I think it's called 'blagging'. It was free entry and then another queue to leave any bag you are carrying at a desk/store.

It is a vast museum on 6 floors. Left: The entrance hall. There are miles of passage-ways, escalators, stairways and 'galleries', some of which had little in them. To be honest I found it a bit boring, but at least I was drying off.

I show a few photos of some exhibits which were not just stones or plants or little insects etc.

Right: A bird with a big beak. Surprised it doesn't have 'weight and balance' problems in flight. A nose dive would seem likely.

Left: This fish generously donated it's dentures.

Right: A tusk from a Stegodon. They were elephant-like creatures around from about 2,000,000 years ago. This tusk, the notice told me, is 800,000 yrs old. Whoopee!

Left: This croc is called 'Lolong'. A large Indo-Pacific male adult saltwater crocodile from the marshes on the island of Mindanao. It was captured in 2011 and sent, in captivity, to a nature park in Bunawan where it died in 2013 (at about 55yrs old). It was named after the veteran crocodile hunter Ernesto 'Lolong' Coñate who died during the hunt for the giant reptile. We are not told how. It is/was 20 feet 3 inches long and weighed in at 2,370 lbs and the largest croc ever held in captivity. 

You could make a lot of handbags from that!

That will have to do for the time being and I hope to be off up north to visit some relations of a friend's Filipina (London based) wife.

GETTING AROUND MANILA

 8th - 10th Dec 2025

The Katipunan Revolutionary Monument in Intramuros, Rizal Park, featuring local hero, Andrés Bonifacio, revolutionary leader of the Katipunan revolutionaries who temporarily ousted the Spanish Government between 1896-98. 

I searched in vain for a useful Tourist Information Centre. I was after a) a paper map of the streets (like a London A-Z) and b) some postcards (I like sending them). The advertised tourist office in Intramuros, staffed by several disinterested young people eating sandwiches, was useless and the Central Tourist Office in Makati equally so. A polite gentleman there said there might be maps and postcards in one of the large National Bookstores. There weren't. As a solo traveller navigating around this traffic-jammed maze of a city is not easy. I had bought an e-SIM card for my iPhone which proved invaluable, indeed essential. Without access to Google Maps one would be permanently lost and, fortunately, the national internet provider 'ICT' worked well everywhere except up in the mountains. Indeed internet was remarkably good everywhere and in all hotels and bars.

To get from A to B there were several means of transport, but walking, as I like to do, posed an irritating problem. There are several 8-lane motorways, some on two levels, which criss-cross the city (below). You set off on foot, following your Google map directions on your phone, only to find your way blocked by one of these blasted motorways, or a fence, or a wall. It can be a long detour to get over, under or around, to the other side.

The most reliable and comfortable way to get around is to use the 'Grab' taxis for which I have the required 'app' on my phone. They are both efficient and relatively inexpensive, although you may have to wait some time for one to arrive during the ultra-busy traffic periods ie. between 8.00am and 10.00pm! I also discovered motorbike taxis on  the 'Move-it' app which were excellent and relatively quick. To get from Makati to Intramuros in the north by car, about 5km, could take anything up to 2 hours! (normally about 1hr 15mins)

Other intra-city transport consists of 'cowboy' taxis (I never touch them), motor-bikes with side-cars, tuk-tuks, the occasional horse and cart,  'Jeepneys' and the rather basic overhead 'Metro' (LRT and MRT) system.

Right: A typical 'Jeepney'. They are effectively based on a WW2 US jeep's chassis and have an elongated low passenger compartment. There seems to be competition as to who can produce the most extravagantly decorated version!  These only operated within their local districts. They wait at a pick-up point until full…and full means packed. It only costs 10 pesos for a ride (12p) of whatever distance. I tried them on a couple of occasions. Not being able to find out where they were going, I just got into one pointing in the direction I wanted to go and hoped for the best.

Left: Inside after being squeezed in, it was just a question of monitoring where I was on my phone and get out at one of the many stops before it turned in a different direction. Other passengers shouted something when they wanted to get off, but they knew where they were going. More were picked up en-route. An amusing form of transport but not entirely predictable.

There were lots of motorbikes with various forms of 'sidecar'. Some very basic and carried freight, or (right) old women.

Left: Others were more luxurious.

Right: The redoubtable tuk-tuks were in abundance. Again, these stuck to a local area.

Left: ….and one driven by a lady, which is a rare sight.

Right: A horse and cart. I think these were used by the well-heeled tourists on guided tours. More for pleasure than getting from one place to another. You may notice that it is raining in this photo. It did tend to rain or drizzle most afternoons and the roads, pavements and streets became quickly and annoyingly waterlogged. I'm not surprised there is chaos if and when it really pisses down! Drainage seems to be a problem.

Left: The overhead LRT (Light Rail Transit) Metro and MRT (Metro Rail Transit) operate on a few lines. I never quite discovered how to best to use them as the stations were difficult to find and the only route diagrams were at the stations. The useless tourist information offices could not provide one.

I did use them on a couple of occasions from 'near' Makati (Vito Cruz station) to the Central stop in Intramuros. Very cheap at 25p (UK equiv). Right: As with everything in this city, we were packed in like sardines.

There were always many motorbike, tuk-tuk drivers and others pestering you for business. Most irritating, as were the other hawkers trying to sell you stuff you didn't want (e.g. old ladies selling little bunches of flowers). I suppose it is a normal hassle in this part of the world. At least they are out there trying to earn a living unlike so many wasters in the UK lounging idly and comfortably at home on generous 'benefits'!

Left: Another exuberantly decorated Jeepney. I wonder who 'Sherryl' is?

I mentioned earlier of the need to find either bridges or underpasses to get across those blasted motorways. All of them seemed to house down-and-out homeless people (right) and there were many beggars of various descriptions on the streets. There is a rather squalid side to this city.

That will have to do for now and I haven't even started on the more interesting sights and experiences I encountered, let alone my trips outside Manila. I will get around to it one day!

PS. Just found this basic map (on the internet) of the LRT and MRT routes. Might come in useful later and to anyone following me!

MÁS MANILA

7th - 8th Dec 2025

Interesting 'artwork' on a tall apartment block in the west side.

I must say I found (still do) the make up of the huge Manila Metropolis difficult to understand with all its different districts, administrative areas and 'cities' included in a most confusing manner. For simplicity's' sake I only refer to the 'areas' listed in my basic guide book namely: City of Manila (Incl. Intramuros), Quezon City, Makati & BGC (Bonefacio Global City), Pasay & Parañaque. On my two seperate visits I based myself in the Makati area. I attach a poor photo from my 'Lonely Planet' which might give you some idea. Click on to enlarge:

'Find Your Way'? An optimistic proposition!

On day 2 I was taken, by car, on a very interesting guided tour, mainly of the upmarket southern and western areas towards Manila Bay. My charming host and driver, Neil, is a Filipino and friend of a friend of mine in UK. He has lived for most of his life in the USA but now returned 'home'.

We travelled towards Manila Bay, an area of which a large part has been reclaimed from the sea…and they are still 'reclaiming' more.

Much of the area towards the Bay consists of enormous skyscrapers very upmarket apartment blocks and vast shopping malls plus some obscenely flash and ostentatious hotels and casinos. Left: This, the Okada, is an example, of several, of a combined hotel and casino complex. I was told the best 'suites' for guests here cost in the region of 30,000 US$ per night! I tend to top out at 30 US$ per night in probably much more amusing places!

Another flash area we passed (stopped at an entrance) was Forbes Park, a gated (with armed guards) housing estate in the south of the Makati area. Right: Not my photo, but gives you an idea of the place. Houses on sale for up to 30-40 million US$. I was told it caters to the wealthy and often corrupt billionaires who like an 'untraceable' means of hiding their ill-gotten gains.

Left: At the opposite end of the scale are  several areas of abject poverty, mostly in the port districts of Tondos and Esteros to the north-west of the metropolis…but there are other similarly disgusting crime and drug infested squalid slums elsewhere. Not safe places for tourists, or even the police, to venture into! A bit like Birmingham in the UK during the rubbish collectors' strike.

I was warned that wandering the streets as a tourist can be dangerous, especially after dark, with potential for armed robbery a risk, presumably by residents of the above. I did a bit of wandering but fortunately never experienced anything threatening. The only frequent hassle I got was from touts on the streets trying to flog dodgy cell-phones, watches and, above all, packets of viagra and cialis! I resisted the temptation and soon bored them away with my inane 'conversation'. Quite amusing actually!

Many streets around town are named after past American high ranking military and political grandees such as Taft, Lincoln, MacArthur, Pershing, Lawton, Harrison and several more. As you may be aware, the Philippines was 'discovered' in 1521 by Ferdinand Magellan (he was killed in battle there), colonised by the Spanish in 1565 and named after Spanish King Phillip 11. During the Spanish/American war in 1898 it was captured and colonised by America. The Japs invaded in 1941 and temporarily chased the Yanks out but they returned after the Japanese surrender. It gained full independence in 1946.

Right: Another amusing bit of artwork in the Bay area. 

By chance we ended up in an amusing Irish Pub in Makati called O'Reilly's (left). There are two other 'Oirish Bears' in Manila, apparently. It featured two well patronised Pool tables, a dartboard and several pretty young ladies who were very 'sociable'. No Guiness! It seems the only beer that I recognise served in most establishments here is either San Miguel or Red Horse.

If you hadn't got anyone else to play with, one of the 'enthusiastic' ladies was only too keen to oblige (Right).

We didn't bother and just enjoyed a good chat and drink…and were joined by quite an amusing American after temporarily dumping his lady Pool partner. Many thanks Neil!

Off tomorrow to have a look around Intramuros, the old part of the city to the north end and try to find a tourist information office, and a post office to send some cards. 

PS. The small hotel I am staying at in Makati has an 'en-suite' room (25US$ pn) is perfectly comfortable with good Wi-Fi etc, despite rather a lack of hot water; none at the washbasin and only tepid in the shower! It is called Nest Nano Suites. The staff at reception are most charming and helpful and it is within easy walking distance of some decent shops (7Eleven stores in profusion) and one particularly good restaurant which I have subsequently patronised. The only real problem is that a rooster and dog have a loud ongoing crowing/barking match at each other just below my room from about 4.00am onwards! Shotgun required.

So much more to follow and at this rate I will be writing this until Easter…...

A THRILLA IN MANILA…MAYBE?

 4th - 6th Dec 2025

Well, it's that time of year again, so my 'Chrexit 25' is now underway. First stop the Philippines, which is one of many countries I had not yet visited.

True to my miserly choosing of the cheapest options I got a late evening flight on 4th December with China Airways from London Heathrow involving a five hour stop-over in Chengdu/ Tianfu before flying on to Manila. 

That was over a period of 20 hours and, due to the time differences going east, incorporated two nights. China Airlines were most efficient and on time and I have absolutely no complaints about their service. However, jammed up in a small seat on both flights I arrived in Manila at 1.30am on the 6th December having had no sleep. An efficient, and surprisingly cheap, Grab taxi then took me to my cheapo hotel in the Makati district of the city. Left: Ninoy Aquino airport in Manila.

I was quite knackered and after a suitable kip ventured out to have a look around the area.

Manila is a complex and vast metropolitan arrangement of districts and each with it's own distinctive characteristics. The 'city' itself is the old 'walled' part to the north straddling the Pasig River. To its east is Quezon City, to the south-east is Makati and Bonefacio Global City (BFC) and to the south Pasay and Parañaque. Manila Bay runs down the western side. The whole area being known collectively as 'Metro Manila'. Or 'Metro Traffic Jam' as I came to call it. Makati, the district in which I am staying, is renowned for its restaurants, bars, nightclubs, nightlife and the very friendly ladies who frequent some of these establishments.

Right: An area around here has streets named after various planets and cosmic terminology. Curious? I can't think why.

On my initial brief 'recce', I passed a few interesting venues. Left: This restaurant, 'Pardon My French', looked inviting and I liked the name. In fact I was given a look inside and it is very smart with an elegant dining area plus balconies and a stage for a band. I was told the band plays (1970s/80s music) during the evening sessions. I vowed to return for a meal at some stage.

Right: Click on to enlarge and read the board at the bottom. This establishment, called 'Bottoms', certainly captured my imagination. I was particularly intrigued by the advertised 'Midget Oil Wrestling'. I suspect this sort of place would be frowned upon in UK.

Left: The 'House Rules' at the entrance. I'm not sure what sort of clientele they are expecting….

Right: A thought-provoking sign on the door of a single street-side room which was being refurbished. I don't know who (or what) 'Lady Bedspacer' is, possibly one of many 'Labour' newly appointed grandees, but I can think of a few acquaintances who match this description. I was tempted to give them a call.

Left: A pleasant restaurant, the Tiabuela, near my hotel which I patronised and which offered decent food and drink at surprisingly cheap prices. In fact  during my very short time so far in this city I have been surprised at the relatively cheap price of food and drink; about half the price we pay in UK. Oh yes! The reindeer horns and Father Christmas hats have come out in force already. 😫.

This tardy 'initial' report covers only the first 24 hrs of my Manila experience. I am getting idle. Old age creeping up I suspect. 

I close now for the time being and much, much more to come when I get my act together. Stand-by!

A QUESTION!

 14th Sept 2025

A QUESTION TO MY READER(S)

I have a question to ask anyone reading these 'blogs' which I hope might attract a response to satisfy my curiosity. The number of people 'hitting' on this blogsite seems to have increased in the last two months for some reason (which is good for morale!) and I have not made an entry since July.  I often wonder who is reading these offerings? Of course I don't know whether they actually read them or just 'hit and run'. I would be most interested to know who they, or some of them anyway, are! I know my trusty eagle-eyed critic at OMPITA is a regular reader and quick to point out my many typos and grammatical errors...it seems to keep them amused (note politically correct pronoun!). 

It would be much appreciated at this end if at least some readers could reveal their names, nicknames, code names and/or roughly where they are located, even just their country. This can be done (I hope) in the 'comments' line at the bottom of each blog. Any comments, however rude, would be most welcome! Do I have many readers, or just a few who have nothing better to do than constantly open this blogsite?

Maybe the 'comments' page is difficult to access? Anyway, I pose this question; "who are you?" and would be delighted to get an answer. 🤞🙏