BACK TO COLOMBO - SRI LANKA

28th Nov - 3rd Dec 2011

Local industry.

Before the train left from Kandy back to Colombo there was time to go to visit the elephant orphanage at Pinnewala, about 20 miles west. This place is supposed to look after orphaned and injured elephants.

On the way there we passed several sights including this ( left ) across the hills to Bible Rock on the horizon in the distance. Also dozens of roadside stalls selling snacks to passers by and seemingly not many takers.








The Elephant Orphanage is a very tourist oriented commercial concern. It is suspected that elephants are deliberately bred here to keep the herd strong and available for human viewing. Having said that they all look in remarkably good health and are obviously well fed. Not much need for them to do much foraging, and some young elephants are selected every morning to be hand-fed bottles of milk by eager tourists which they drink by the gallon.





There were about 80 elephants on display which live in a large enclosed area and in a life of comparative luxury. Lots of photo opportunities to be had with tourists ( me included ) standing next to the creatures and patting their heads. The 'mahouts' make lots of pocket-money from this. They probably all have second homes in Monte Carlo and drive Ferraris.







Right: One of the more impressive 'tuskers' being given a pedicure. I didn't gather which elephants grew big tusks and which didn't. Maybe it's obvious? I know that Indian elephants have smaller ears, but that is about as far as my knowledge goes.
I expect someone will explain.
These elephants are fed at 10.00am each day for both their and the tourists' benefit. They are then, at 12.00pm, herded down to the river for a bathe, and for more gawping at by us tourists.





On the way down to the river we, and the elephants, pass through a sort of shopping street. Lots of hustlers selling all kinds of tat as always. There are many places ( as per left ) advertising the sale of 'elephant dung' paper products.














Right: We were given a demo of how the shit is converted into paper. Quite a simple process really. I was then persuaded to by a notebook made from the stuff. Is is possible to write on it with biro. I doubt if it will ever be a best seller in Smythson's of Bond Street.








Left: The jumbos wade in. They seem to enjoy themselves, especially the little ones which cavort about and play with each other, frequently submerging themselves. The mahouts, armed with long poles with spikes and hooks on the top, make sure they don't wander away too far. Actually the elephants seem remarkably biddable and responsive to commands.




Right: This one ( right ) is not dead. It was singled out for a special wash and scrub. The beast seemed to think it was in seventh heaven. It languished like this for over an hour, occasionally raising it's trunk to breathe, only moving at the half way point to turn over onto it's other side.
PS. I never saw any injured elephants.







On the way back to the station in Kandy we passed this tree, amongst others similar, over a river which was crowded with hanging bats. They go eating fruit after dark. We also stopped at a 'Herb Garden' where I was taken on a most interesting tour of a large area of many different exotic herbs and plants and included a back and neck massage with some special gunge or other. Of course it was a clever way of convincing the customer ( me anyway ) of buying some exotic life-enhancing herby liquid at the shop at the end. I was told I would look ten years younger if I drank it, or was I meant to rub it on somewhere, can't remember.
We returned via a visit to the nursery school which Jim's wife ran; it looked a very smart and jolly place with, I was told, 80 children under 5yrs. A quick lunch at The Pub in Kandy and then the train ( the 1st Class job ) back to Colombo. So far so good.
I had booked into the Mount Lavinia Hotel for that night. It is a fairly luxurious place on the beach at Mount Lavinia which is about 15 miles south of Colombo. Because I was already at the station I decided to go by train. In the rush hour. This was cheap ( 15 rupees, 10 pence ) and because I didn't know where to go a local chap kindly went and bought my ticket for me! He didn't even want repayment. Extraordinarily generous, and the train was on time. I had a bag and small backpack with me. I managed to get inside the carriage, as did about 5 thousand others with another few hundred hanging onto the outside. To say it was a crush is something of an understatement. It was suffocating and impossible to move any part of my body. I have never experienced anything like it before. The rush hour tubes in London are positively deserted in comparison. I lost contact with my bag and all feeling in one leg and an arm. It was difficult to breathe. There are 8 stops, I was laughingly told by a bloke with bad breath standing on my foot with his elbow in my ribs, before Mount Lavinia. For the next 4 stations even more people, incredibly, fought their way on board and clung to the windows outside. It was actually quite frightening! I was not sure if I would last the journey and had every confidence that if I did get off alive it would be without most of my possessions.  By stop 6 ( after an interminable 25 painful minutes or so ) people started to thin out a bit. I made it to Mt Lavinia alive if dazed, sweating profusely, numb and desperate. Curiously I found my bag on the floor and as much as I checked I could find nothing missing from my person. I will think more than twice before doing that again.
It was a short walk to the hotel.


Right: The grandiose colonial style Mount Lavinia Hotel. In the foyer/reception area there was, inevitably, a decorated Christmas tree. We were welcomed to the refrain of "Walking in a Winter Wonderland". Winter Wonderland, MY ARSE! People here would be no more familiar with a poxy Winter Wonderland than the Sea of Tranquillity on the moon.








Left: The beach, outside the the fish restaurant, was surprisingly deserted. The hotel had several bars and restaurants, all quite expensive but good quality.  My only complaint about the place was that the distances you had to cover between these facilities and rooms ideally required a taxi ( or three-wheeler ).







Right: View of the beach from one of the bars. Nobody tends to swim in the sea. They use the hotel pool instead, because there are strong currents and under-tows which would tend to make you late for dinner or, indeed, entirely 'late'.










Left: One of the quaintly, and smartly, dressed staff in his colonial outfit. Reminds me a little of the wee chap 'Lofty' in the old TV series ( now too politically incorrect to receive repeats ) 'It Ain't 'Alf Hot Mum', if memory serves me right. It is a good hotel, no question.

I spent a second night at Mt Lavinia in another ( cheaper ) hotel. I won't bore you with more beach hotel photos. It was delightful too.

Back to Colombo central by taxi. I was not risking another 'normal' train for a bit. I had to be there for the next three days to 'organise' my Indian visa.

By another complete quirk of coincidence a friend of mine, Barbara ( she owned that magnificent old pub, The Grapes, in Narrow Street, Limehouse, until last year ), was holidaying in Sri Lanka and was due to spend her last night at the Galle Face Hotel in Colombo on Thursday ( 1st ). I think I showed a few pics of this antiquated establishment ( Colombo's answer to Singapore's Raffles ) previously. We arranged to meet for drinks at the Veranda bar at 6.30pm. Champagne was provided ( Barbara must have sold the pub well ) and then had dinner. A great treat, for me. Incidentally The Grapes is now owned by Ian McKellen ( actor ) who lives nearby and it is an iconic Dickensian London pub and fish restaurant that is utterly unspoilt and traditional and does the most fantastic Sunday Roast Lunch. Can't recommend the place highly enough despite some rather eccentric old fashioned 'locals', and their equally eccentric dogs, who prop up the bar.




Right: Barbara looking sun-tanned and glamorous, with matching shoes and handbag, after a very good dinner at the Veranda restaurant at the Galle Face Hotel.
I'm sure Barbara won't mind if I tell you that she was a very senior and respected 'Bunnygirl' at the Playboy Club, Mayfair, in it's heyday in the 1960s. They had very high standards in those days, and Barbara has always sought to maintain them. Ex-Bunny Barbara ran her pub with a rod of iron.






Left: This is the board, mentioned previously, which hangs in the reception area of the hotel. It lists all the guests considered to be 'important' to have stayed here ( well, up to whatever date it states on the board ). For some reason it features the Queen of Denmark three times. She was obviously a popular guest. If you 'click on' to enlarge you might be able to make out a few names. You might even feature!
I like the entry of Prince Philip who, apparently, bought his first car in Colombo which is now owned by Cyril Gardiner, the director and chairman, who instigated this  board.








While in Colombo I took the opportunity to visit the International Cricket ground at The Sinhalese Sports Club, District 7, the posh part of town. There was a cricket match ( 50/50 ) in progress between two league sides; MAS Intimates v MAS Active. The captain of the Sri Lanka team, T. Dilshan, was playing for MAS Active. He was out for a duck.
The noise of trumpets and banging drums was continuous, plus thunderous volleys of firecrackers ( forbidden in UK, 'Elf 'n' Safety of course ) which belied a rather small crowd.



This was the final of the Singer Trophy. MAS Active won quite convincingly. Here they are ( left ) celebrating their victory. The presentations went on for ages and featured awards for everything from the Batsman of the Series to the Best Groundsman with about 20 others in between.
The Sri Lankan team are just about to depart for a Test match with South Africa. Locals tell me that it will be considered a 'success' if they manage to hold out for three days. The Sri Lankan team is going through a rough patch with lots of 'politics' and lack of pay at the heart of their problems. Good luck to them. The first Test ( maybe only one ) is on the 15th Dec. Good luck to them.


I adopted the Cricket Club Cafe ( district 3 ) as my watering hole of choice ( right ). It was close to my cheap hotel. This place was of Brit pub appearance and served very good Shepherd's Pie amongst other old fashioned English fare.











The service, as just about everywhere in this country, was superb. Lots of ex-pats were in evidence, not surprisingly perhaps.









Off next to have a look at Galle and it's nearby beach areas. I think I will be trying out the public bus services to get there. I am told there is a certain 'thrill' value to be had experiencing the skill of the bus driver over-taking using three lanes on a crowded two lane road. "Hold very tight please, ting ting".