11th - 14th Dec 2011
So, having been given the shock horror news that the Colombo - Tuticorin ferry has been cancelled indefinitely I had to make other plans and sadly that will involve flying to the nearest convenient Indian airport of Tiruchirappalli ( Trichy for short ) on Wednesday 14th. How tedious. I find it difficult to understand the lack of interest by either Indians or, especially, Sri Lankans, that resulted, I think, in the ferry company going bust. How can you live on an island close to the Indian mainland and not wish to take your car or just go on a pleasant and relatively cheap and hassle free cruise on a comfortable ferry to get there. It must have been badly marketed or other forces were at work to cause this disaster.
I now have a couple of days to spare. After another wander around Colombo I decided to go and have a look at the resort of Negombo which is on the coast about 20 miles north.
Left: The old Parliament building in Colombo. I think it is still used as Government offices. Quite an elegant edifice I think but no longer a talking shop. Talking of talking, I never managed to suss out one word of Sinhalese. When listening to it, it was impenetrable except that the occasional English words were casually thrown in. Hearing a radio news broadcast it sounded like "walliwalligobblebabblegombola disaster bollywobbleumbagallylimlolo north-east abllybumblejibblyjumbly to be avoided". It left you somewhat perplexed!
Also elegant is this old colonial building, Cargill's. Not sure what it's original use was...but it will probably be explained somewhere on the internet. The old buildings are still much the best. Grandstands and sandbags were being placed outside it. More sandbags and barriers of car tyres were lining other streets. I was told they are to stage a motor race through the city over Christmas. Almost worth staying around to witness the carnage.
I wonder if there is a 'three-wheeler' category.
The bus to Negombo was fairly painless and efficient. I had to pay for a second seat for my big bag, but the total price was still only 160 rupees ( £1 ). It took about an hour and a half.
Negombo town itself is pretty nondescript except for a large fishing harbour and thriving fish market, but the beach area a mile to the north is interesting and colourful. Hotels, shops and restaurants run north for over a mile up a seaside road called Lewis Place. It is a popular tourist resort by the look of it. Originally constructed by the Dutch there are several canals ( left ) which are quite attractive. Lots of boats were tied up alongside but I didn't see any being used.
I booked in, totally on spec, at the Icebear Guest House ( right ). I liked the name. It is a lovely place. The owner is Swiss and it features some mildly eccentric decoration, comfortable well appointed air-con bedrooms, free wifi, excellent Swiss style food and, interestingly, classical music gently playing in the background. Definitely no crappy "Jingle Bells'. The sandy beach is out the front. Attention is paid to detail: tea is poured for you through old fashioned silver tea-strainers.
The owner and manager, Gerry ( left ), lives there in splendour in the colonial style bungalow building and has done for many years I believe. He is a remarkably jolly chap who obviously enjoys his job and takes a great pride in the place and care of his clientele. There were several very respectable looking guests there and the place seems popular and well run. As always, the staff were impeccable.
Highly recommended.
There are wall to wall pubs, bars, restaurants, boutique shops, and hotels ( some quite up-market by the look of them ) along the beach road. Many of the restaurants and hotels seem to have Swiss/German themes and menus ( you know, fondue, schnitzels, pork knuckles etc. ) as well as excellent looking locally caught seafood including lots of lobster and oyster. I don't know why the Swiss or German influence pervades. Some of the restaurants are top quality. I visited one such establishment, predominantly serving seafood, called 'Lords' which is owned and managed by an ex-pat Brit. It was pretty full of customers and the food was delicious.
Of course it was impossible to avoid the blasted Christmas decorations, as per this remarkably tacky display ( right ). Even the internet cafe owners, of which there are many, were busy festooning their shops with shiny baubles, tinsel and Merry Xmas banners at great expense and effort. Does anyone really appreciate it?
I don't understand it.........I give up!
The long beach was of soft golden sand and kept remarkably clean. The sand is obviously swept regularly.
Apart from swimming and a bit of beach volleyball the only other seaside entertainment on offer was trips in the local out-rigger type fishing boats, called 'oruvas' ( left ). I didn't see any punters making use of them, but there were lots around some were actually going fishing. Catching a tourist is much more lucrative, however. As the local blurb says they make an impressive sight when they "sweep home into the lagoon at sunset". They might, but I didn't witness it.
What I did often witness here, as well as every other beach and open public area I visited, was the Sri Lankan 'intercept'. This involves a local, undoubtedly wanting to sell you something, approaching from an incoming track offset 30ยบ to your own. You can see this in the photo ( this guy wanted to sell me a ride in his boat ). Unless you turn around and run, you are trapped. He will initiate the conversation with two questions "where are you from?" and "this your first time in Sri Lanka?". Having 'established comms' and by now walking alongside you he will say how much he likes to practice speaking English and then follows, eventually, what he has to offer, often just to show you around and expecting a few rupees at the end. I'm sure these people mean no harm, they are just trying to earn some much needed money, but after a few 'intercepts' it does get rather tedious. It is difficult, eventually, not to be rude. So my unexpected sojourn in Negombo was a pleasant one.
I took a three-wheeler, grossly overloaded with my large bag and a couple of others, to the Banderanaike International Airport which is conveniently close to Negombo. I was braced for intense hassle and problems with luggage and generally being mucked around by aggressive petty officials. My flight was not until 0200hrs and I got there early at 2230hrs to give myself plenty of time to work up a bad tempered lather of mega Basil Fawlty proportions. Surprisingly, the airport security, although there were many checks, was quietly, politely, quickly and efficiently carried out at each stage. Even the check-in caused me no irritation and there were no long queues and no problems. I even had time for drinks and a light supper in the bar/restaurant upstairs. How disappointing!
Next report will be from Inja, I hope.
 |
| Fishing boats called 'oruvas', on the beach at Negombo. |
I now have a couple of days to spare. After another wander around Colombo I decided to go and have a look at the resort of Negombo which is on the coast about 20 miles north.
Left: The old Parliament building in Colombo. I think it is still used as Government offices. Quite an elegant edifice I think but no longer a talking shop. Talking of talking, I never managed to suss out one word of Sinhalese. When listening to it, it was impenetrable except that the occasional English words were casually thrown in. Hearing a radio news broadcast it sounded like "walliwalligobblebabblegombola disaster bollywobbleumbagallylimlolo north-east abllybumblejibblyjumbly to be avoided". It left you somewhat perplexed!
Also elegant is this old colonial building, Cargill's. Not sure what it's original use was...but it will probably be explained somewhere on the internet. The old buildings are still much the best. Grandstands and sandbags were being placed outside it. More sandbags and barriers of car tyres were lining other streets. I was told they are to stage a motor race through the city over Christmas. Almost worth staying around to witness the carnage.
I wonder if there is a 'three-wheeler' category.
The bus to Negombo was fairly painless and efficient. I had to pay for a second seat for my big bag, but the total price was still only 160 rupees ( £1 ). It took about an hour and a half.
Negombo town itself is pretty nondescript except for a large fishing harbour and thriving fish market, but the beach area a mile to the north is interesting and colourful. Hotels, shops and restaurants run north for over a mile up a seaside road called Lewis Place. It is a popular tourist resort by the look of it. Originally constructed by the Dutch there are several canals ( left ) which are quite attractive. Lots of boats were tied up alongside but I didn't see any being used.
I booked in, totally on spec, at the Icebear Guest House ( right ). I liked the name. It is a lovely place. The owner is Swiss and it features some mildly eccentric decoration, comfortable well appointed air-con bedrooms, free wifi, excellent Swiss style food and, interestingly, classical music gently playing in the background. Definitely no crappy "Jingle Bells'. The sandy beach is out the front. Attention is paid to detail: tea is poured for you through old fashioned silver tea-strainers.
The owner and manager, Gerry ( left ), lives there in splendour in the colonial style bungalow building and has done for many years I believe. He is a remarkably jolly chap who obviously enjoys his job and takes a great pride in the place and care of his clientele. There were several very respectable looking guests there and the place seems popular and well run. As always, the staff were impeccable.
Highly recommended.
There are wall to wall pubs, bars, restaurants, boutique shops, and hotels ( some quite up-market by the look of them ) along the beach road. Many of the restaurants and hotels seem to have Swiss/German themes and menus ( you know, fondue, schnitzels, pork knuckles etc. ) as well as excellent looking locally caught seafood including lots of lobster and oyster. I don't know why the Swiss or German influence pervades. Some of the restaurants are top quality. I visited one such establishment, predominantly serving seafood, called 'Lords' which is owned and managed by an ex-pat Brit. It was pretty full of customers and the food was delicious.
Of course it was impossible to avoid the blasted Christmas decorations, as per this remarkably tacky display ( right ). Even the internet cafe owners, of which there are many, were busy festooning their shops with shiny baubles, tinsel and Merry Xmas banners at great expense and effort. Does anyone really appreciate it?I don't understand it.........I give up!
The long beach was of soft golden sand and kept remarkably clean. The sand is obviously swept regularly.
Apart from swimming and a bit of beach volleyball the only other seaside entertainment on offer was trips in the local out-rigger type fishing boats, called 'oruvas' ( left ). I didn't see any punters making use of them, but there were lots around some were actually going fishing. Catching a tourist is much more lucrative, however. As the local blurb says they make an impressive sight when they "sweep home into the lagoon at sunset". They might, but I didn't witness it.
What I did often witness here, as well as every other beach and open public area I visited, was the Sri Lankan 'intercept'. This involves a local, undoubtedly wanting to sell you something, approaching from an incoming track offset 30ยบ to your own. You can see this in the photo ( this guy wanted to sell me a ride in his boat ). Unless you turn around and run, you are trapped. He will initiate the conversation with two questions "where are you from?" and "this your first time in Sri Lanka?". Having 'established comms' and by now walking alongside you he will say how much he likes to practice speaking English and then follows, eventually, what he has to offer, often just to show you around and expecting a few rupees at the end. I'm sure these people mean no harm, they are just trying to earn some much needed money, but after a few 'intercepts' it does get rather tedious. It is difficult, eventually, not to be rude. So my unexpected sojourn in Negombo was a pleasant one.
I took a three-wheeler, grossly overloaded with my large bag and a couple of others, to the Banderanaike International Airport which is conveniently close to Negombo. I was braced for intense hassle and problems with luggage and generally being mucked around by aggressive petty officials. My flight was not until 0200hrs and I got there early at 2230hrs to give myself plenty of time to work up a bad tempered lather of mega Basil Fawlty proportions. Surprisingly, the airport security, although there were many checks, was quietly, politely, quickly and efficiently carried out at each stage. Even the check-in caused me no irritation and there were no long queues and no problems. I even had time for drinks and a light supper in the bar/restaurant upstairs. How disappointing!
Next report will be from Inja, I hope.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi. I really like these pictures. Would it be alright if I used one of them on my website?
ReplyDeleteCargills was a departmental store or a supermarket before the word got into the Srilankan English vocabulary. I am talking of the 60's and 70's when Cargills was the place for the 'upper middle-class' to go shopping! Imported liquor, whiskey and fine wines, canned/tinned beef and beans and sardines, imported cake ingredients (almonds, cherries), fine writing instruments Sheaffer and Parker pens, Swiss watches, Danish biscuits and so on! During Christmas piped music including 'Deck the Halls with boughs of Holly', 'Dreaming of a White Christmas' and so on, all smacking of our colonial past would play... it was a childhood dream to be taken there by my parents! I remember a 'lift-operator' seated on a stool inside the lift which had a metal trellis sliding door and brass knobs! All a magical paradise for a 7 year old!
ReplyDeleteBy the way... must say I enjoyed your style of writing and tongue-in-cheek British humour... must be because of our old colonial links to Enid Blyton, Biggles, Frederick Forsyth, Simon Templar, 'Mind Your Language' 'Fawlty Towers', 'Last of the Summer Wine', and LWT - London Weekend Television! Loved the descriptions of the kamikaze bus rides and the Srilankan connection to various deities! Will bookmark your Blog for future merriment with a warm drink by the blazing fire! BTW, I was born and bred in Negombo and lived there for 40 years before migrating... but that's another story!
ReplyDelete