NUWARA ELIYA - SRI LANKA

27th - 28th Nov 2011

Tea country near Nuwara Eliya.

Met Jim and his smart car and off we set to Nuwara Eliya which is further up in the hills about 50 miles south of Kandy. The place is often referred to as 'Little England'. The place was 'discovered' by the Brits in 1819, and was a pleasant Hill Station for colonials' R&R, grew English type fruit and vegetables with, initially, coffee, before tea planting took over in the 1860s. It is in the shadow of Sri Lanka's highest mountain, Mount Pedro ( Pidurutalagala ), at 8278 ft.

We stopped initially at one of the vast tea estates, which are mostly government owned, called Mackwood's. The factory (left) looked just the same as the museum I had visited previously. A short conducted tour explained the process (of course I was already an expert), but I hadn't realised that tea bushes are picked of their leaves every week and it is a constant process. The leaves grow very quickly. Being Sunday there were no tea pluckers around; it is their only day off. The 'pluckers' are all Tamil ladies, in their thousands, who work almost non-stop. They add much jollity to the proceedings wearing very colourful saris and happy smiles. Sadly I didn't see any of them, so no photies.

Right: I couldn't believe my eyes when we arrived. There was a goddamned sleigh being towed by 'Merry Xmas' blinking reindeer. I mean, incongruous does not satisfactorily describe it. Ridiculous more like. It would be interesting, and maybe impossible, to find some part of the world which has refreshingly turned it's back on this 'winter wonderland' nonsense.

Left: Inside the factory on the 'rolling and shaking' floor. This was exactly like at the museum except the machines were working and making a loud noise. Plus the ever present and quite pleasant smell of tea.

We were, of course, treated to a cup of tea afterwards.

Right: Jim, who has proved a good driver (so far) and is a pleasant and knowledgeable companion. He is setting up his own travel guide service and is great value. His mother is a fan of Jim Reeves ( a deceased singer ), hence his name!

Into Nuwara Eliya after  a very twisty drive up the mountains. I wanted to see the racecourse of which I had heard. Here are the stands (left) and the sign marking the Sri Lanka Turf Club. The place is somewhat dilapidated. They only hold a couple of race-meetings a year and sponsorship, wealthy owners and money in general are in short supply. The main meeting is in April when the feature race is the 'Governor's Cup'.

Left: A look towards the finish. The course reminded me of the old Bogside course in Ayrshire, Scotland (where they once held the Scottish Grand National) in it's point-to-pointing days, even though this is a left-handed track. The going on the day we visited was on the 'heavy' side. It was drizzling with rain. Good British National Hunt weather. It is a good mile and a quarter circuit with a slight climb up the back straight, and lots of weeds and thistles to jump. We were told that the government intends to build a sports complex on the course, which might put an end to it. It is the only racecourse in Sri Lanka.

Left: The stables at the back of the stands housed about 20 horses. They actually looked in quite good nick; well fed and shiny coats. They got exercised every day, but only got to race about twice a year as far as I could make out. Some horses were kept just for hacking around the local hills. The 'lads', about 10 of them, did their 'two' and I don't know who paid them. Some went off to ride in Dubai and even Cyprus.

There are many old colonial style houses and gardens around the town, mostly built in the 19th century, and give the place an almost English home counties appearance. The house here (right) was the Governor's Hill Station Lodge and is now a hotel called 'Ceybank Rest'.

Left: The furniture inside has probably not been changed since the 1890s. This is true of many of the buildings here, both inside and out. The whole place is in a 19th century time-warp. As such it is utterly charming; and the people who serve in such establishments have the delightful manners to go with it.

This is exemplified at the Hill Club (right). Established in 1885 for the use of British Officers on leave, it has not changed one jot since. It has beautifully maintained gardens and tennis courts and even now a full membership and long waiting list for, I suppose, well-to-do Sri Lankans ( although I was told there are some British members still ). It becomes busy in April.

Left: This is the 'men only' bar, as opposed to the larger 'mixed bar' next door. I was allowed to use only this bar because I didn't have a tie on, and am a man, but to use the mixed bar, dining room and other public rooms, including the library, one has to be 'properly attired' (i.e. jacket and tie, or national dress for Sri Lankans). Note the picture of The Queen on the right wall. There were also pictures of Winston Churchill and Prince Charles. To get in here I had to pay for a day's temporary membership (100 rupees).
Keeping Up Standards is important here. If necessary they will even invent Standards To Be Kept Up.

Right: The dining room. Pure old time, with deer's heads and antlers on the walls and a sitting room area at the far end with a large fireplace and comfy chairs. The day's set menu was tomato soup, lamb cutlets, sponge pudding and custard followed by a cheeseboard. I counted 8 waiters on duty in 'full fig' uniform. The chap who gave me a splendid guided tour had worked at the Club for 30 years.  I was the only other person in the building as far as I could see. A lot of sponge pudding must have gone to waste.

Left: There are two billiards rooms; in one you can smoke but not in the other. Why can't we in Britain have sensible rules like that!

This establishment is a magnificent example of a long lost and admirable civilisation.

Next a visit to the Golf Club, est. 1889 ( right ). A very smart looking place as far as I could see, but I know bugger all about golf so can't offer any informed judgement on the course. I was told by an old retainer there that dogs sleeping on the greens is a constant problem. I expect there are rules that cover that hazard. There were some Japanese gentlemen preparing to play. I was given lots of bumph on the course and some score-cards to pass on to anyone who is interested ( Spencer? Bryan? Any takers? ).

...and the town Post Office (left). What a charming relic of a bygone age. It was Sunday, but it was still  open. The old red (Edwardian, I think) British post box is a tribute to a past era.

It is extraordinary that mixed in with all this old colonial and utterly British scenery is a bustling (phrase book jargon for noisy and chaotic) Sri Lankan town with three-wheelers, markets and all that goes with it.

We set off back to Kandy down the wriggly, and now wet, roads. This is definitely a town which deserves much credit for preserving so much history, and keeping it all going in such splendid style. The rain had started again on the way back so I cancelled an intended visit to see the new cricket ground at Palekale. We went instead to see a gem factory and museum in Kandy. They mine, in shallow dirty and dangerous mines, precious (emeralds, sapphires and rubies, but not diamonds) and semi-precious stones. Quite interesting, but I didn't, despite much encouragement, buy any.

More exciting and dramatic visits on the way back to Colombo to follow.

More tea country.