BACK TO HAVANA

11th -13th Nov 2017

The former Presidential Palace. It now houses the Museo de la Revolución.

Back in Havana for my final three days. I booked back into Casa Niñita in the old town. Actually her daughter met me and booked me in. It transpired that she (the daughter) had made a 'beega mistayka' because they were already fully booked. Now, I don't want you to take this the wrong way, but Niñita felt so guilty about this that she let me sleep in her bedroom. She moved out, understandably!

The first place I popped into was Sloppy Joe's bar. Infamous from pre-revolution days as the hang-out for all the mobsters and, mostly American, city luminaries. Lots of old photos of the likes of Frank Sinatra and other cronies decorated the walls. One thing notable about them is that they were all very snappily dressed which is more than can be said for the present day clientele, me included.

Right: Inside Sloppy Joe's. The name came from a form of 'sloppy' pork sandwich they served, and still do, apparently. Elegant surroundings. I ordered a snack of some sausagey type things. Not very nice.

They certainly weren't short of a bottle or two.

Just about every concoction you could think of was on offer.

Apologies; another pic of a car which took my fancy. I watched it with interest because it took a long time to get started; lots of slow, laborious starter motor noise then it burst into life belching black smoke and making a horrible noise before juddering off down the street. I got a 'video' of it which sadly won't transmit here. I record it purely for my own memory's sake.

That 'perro' again on Obispo Street. It had now taken to wearing dark glasses. I believe his name is Coco, or something similar.

More scenes from Obispo Street. Right: Some chaps with long wooden legs, followed by a band.

Left: In the restaurant where I had lunch. As well as the band there was this couple dancing a Tango. They also expected a tip.

...and a typical queue for Internet cards outside the ETECSA office. 

Whilst lingering in one of these I met a charming Cuban doctor who spoke good English. He was the medic to Cuban sports teams and was therefore widely travelled. A most civilised guy and it would have been interesting to learn more of his views.

Left: An unusual (3D) street corner decoration.

Right: More glamorous limousines to take tourists on rides around town.

I visited the Museo de la Revolución housed in the former Presidential Palace. Outside this, mounted on a plinth, was a self-propelled artillery piece (a SAU-100) which, according to the plaque below, was used by Fidel himself to shoot up an American ship.

......if you can read it, and believe it.

The display of the 'revolución' was not particularly inspiring consisting for the most part of rather sparsely populated rooms showing old uniforms and paraphernalia belonging to various revolutionary heroes with 'mucho propaganda'. There was a separate display devoted to Señor Guevara. I bought a cheap replica Che Guevara beret in the museum shop.

The interior must have looked very grand in its day. It was originally decorated by Tiffany of New York.

Most of the big rooms are now devoid of furniture and falling apart or undergoing restoration.

One room, and I was not sure which, was called the Room of Mirrors and designed to resemble the eponymous room at the Palace of Versailles. This one (left) had a few mirrors in it so maybe its the one. Who knows.

Right: The central courtyard.

Some rooms were restored to resemble the original offices and conference rooms. Left: The Presidential Office last inhabited by Fulgencio Batista. I like the gold telephone set in glorious isolation.

Right: Outside the Palace is an extraordinary glass sided construction housing the 'Granma', the boat which brought Fidel Castro and 80 revolutionaries over from Mexico in 1956. The glass is fronted by a wire mesh which makes it difficult to see inside. It is also guarded by a couple of soldiers. You can't go in, so it seems a rather pointless 'non' display.

Surrounding this were several larger exhibits from the revolution and Bay of Pigs 'invasion'. One of which, a Russian T34 tank was, again, supposedly used personally by Fidel to shoot up something American.

Other exhibits included this missile, the like of which shot down an American U2 spy plane in the 1961 invasion. The turbine engine of which rests underneath it. The USA refused to acknowledge that they were involved and it was only 20 years later that they accepted the repatriation of the pilot's remains; hence tacitly admitting that the plane was indeed theirs.

A Landrover which was involved in the revolutionaries' entry into Havana. Lots of bullet holes in it. I'm so proud that they had chosen to buy British.

...and another van, requisitioned by the revolting heroes. According to the plaque alongside there were 40 people in it at the time. Even more bullets had riddled this. I'm surprised anyone managed to get out. I don't suppose the bullet holes could have been planted later?

...........?!

Left: An aircraft requisitioned by Fidel's forces. I think it is a Sea Fury. Not sure what they did with it, or when. No doubt Fidel personally flew it and shot up more American invading forces.

Right: Another (similar to the one at Santa Clara) eternal flame lit by Fidel in memory of fallen comrades etc.

Left: At the end of the square in front of the ex-Palace was another statue dedicated to that 'famous' revolutionary philosopher (see Cienfuegos) José Martí. I get the impression that he was not a very good horseman; his seat in the saddle looks rather insecure. I don't think he would win many prizes in the dressage arena.

......and , of course, he had the mandatory pigeon sitting on his head. What is it about pigeons and heads of statues?

Left: A view of the city taken from the top floor dining room of the Hotel Sevilla. It looks west over the Capitolo building towards the Malecón sea-front.

Right: Another view of the ex-Palace from the back. Quite an impressive building.

Left: 'Sharing a joke' with a local senior citizen sitting on his doorstep. Not that either of us spoke much of each other's language.

Despite the benevolent Socialist State, Havana has its fair share of beggars. This blind old chap was shaking a plastic cup and hoping for the best. I donated.

....and I saw this this old lady on several occasions sitting on Obispo Street or nearby. She looked in a pretty bad way. Another donation was forthcoming.

On that happy note I sign off for now.

Still more to report from Havana.