MAINLAND TANZANIA AND BACK

 16th - 22nd Nov 2020

One of the twin-hulled fast ferries to Dar-es-Salaam

I have now been in Zanzibar and mainland Tanzania for 6 weeks and am still enjoying the relaxed pleasant lifestyle here. I have met up with several 'escapees' from other countries which have extraordinary 'covid' restrictions. None of us can understand why a bug from which well over 90% of those who catch it suffer merely a cold, cough, sniffly nose, or nothing at all, has resulted in populations becoming so supine in their subjugation to these draconian and often utterly illogical rules and regulations which are so damaging to social life, the economy, psychological welfare and other unrelated health issues. The fact that so many otherwise robust people are still keen to cower behind their (arguably) useless dehumanising face-masks (not here, I hasten to add, and with no dire consequences), fuels and spreads unnecessary anxiety. 'Covid wimps' as I've heard them mockingly described!  From the outside it all looks as if the world has gone stark raving bonkers and, despite a vaccine, no end in sight to this madness.

I took the opportunity to visit friends who live in Tanzania, about 20 miles north of Dar-es-Salaam, in a rambling beachside house with numerous dogs, cats, geese, guinea fowl and other livestock, plus children. They were incredibly hospitable hosts but, for various 'political' reasons did not wish to feature in this blog. 

Left: Part of the packed economy class section on the fast modern twin-hulled ferry, a 1½ hour journey from Zanzibar to 'Dar' (that is the common abbreviation for Dar-es-Salami).

It is necessary to show passports and fill in immigration forms to go from Zanzibar to the mainland. I'm still not quite sure what the political relationship is between the island and mainland although all part of Tanzania.

There are 4 ferries daily. The waiting hall at departure was full for the mid-day run.  Economy class (price for foreigners $35; much cheaper for locals). Right: The economy class was full to the point of people sitting on the stairs.

For an extra $15 you can travel in VIP Class, which was almost empty. Here you get good WiFi, comfortable seat and a complementary cup of coffee and bun served to your seat. I splashed out for this. There is also a 'Super-VIP' class, but not sure what 'extras' that gave you.

Right: Looking back at the frontage of the luxury Park Hyatt hotel on the point of Stone Town. Not a patch on Bottoms Up I'm sure.

I had booked in, on spec, to a hotel for the first night in Dar. It was within easy walking distance from the ferry terminal. It is called 'The Chelsea Hotel' and, at $23 pn, was  great value. Comfortable air-con room, big TV, good bathroom and excellent bar and restaurant, plus a very helpful Indian manager. I merely mention this in case anyone reading this is looking for accommodation in Dar.

My host owned (or rather 'leased', because you can't legally own) a 350 acre farm a 2½ hour drive north-west of his house. This bordered a large river and he farmed cattle and goats in an innovative and modern (by African standards) style by encouraging a form of rotational grass husbandry. Grass growing is the key to success. To get to the place involved driving through some boggy, bumpy tracks, impassable during a rainy period, and struck me as being very hard work! 

His manager was Tanzanian and the 'herders' were, predictably, Maasai.

Left: A daily count of the cattle. They are all branded but cattle rustling can be a problem.

I have discovered the Maasai (Maa) word for "hello". It is "subai", pronounced "soub eye". The response is "Eba". Could come in useful?

Right: Counting the goats. They keep giving birth so hopefully increasing the population. They are also prone to dying of one disease or another which means that the status quo is probably maintained. 

Left: A shed full of bulls. The long-horned ones are the African Ankole or Watusi breed. I think! Useful to hang the washing from.

The three or four Maasai herders live in extremely spartan accommodation, miles from anywhere and with no running water or electricity. They are a hardy breed. Nevertheless, the owner has to pay for an expensive Government 'elf 'n safety' survey (a money-making scam) which includes the requirement for a 'Fire Assembly Point' (right). No logic to this of course. They must have looked up some useless British bureaucratic document.

I had thought of going to visit the game parks of the Serengeti, Ngonogoro Crater and Mt Kilimanjaro, up North via Arusha, having done similar, cheaply, in South Africa a few years ago. However, on investigation, the prices offered including a flight to Arusha were exorbitant! Going by shoddy bus to Arusha (630 km) would take up to 12 hours! With so few tourists visiting the country at the moment you would think there might be some 'good deals' to be had. However African economic thinking means charging ever more and so very few people (other than a few wealthy Americans or Russians perhaps) can now afford to go, hence the Law of Diminishing Returns! To give you an idea, one supposedly 'respectable' travel company was going to charge $3000 for a 4 day safari to the Serengeti! Blimey! Not my idea of a bargain to ogle a few flea-bitten lions, stripey horses and big things with horns and tusks. I can see them on the internet. 

Nevertheless I had a pleasant stay here, including being over well fed with visits to a rather ex-pat oriented 'craft fair' and restaurants on the Peninsular, an upmarket 'Embassy' area north of Dar city. 

Back to Zanzibar....and more to come from there Including a very rare, for me, attendance at church; a Swahili service in the Anglican Cathedral. It was quite extraordinary.