MORE STONE TOWN - ZANZIBAR

 22nd - 29th Nov 2020

The Anglican Cathedral

I can't remember when I last attended a church service. I'm afraid I am not very keen on all the kneeling and praying stuff. However, I decided out of curiosity to go to a Sunday service at the Anglican Cathedral which, as described in an earlier blog, is situated on the site of the 19th century slave market.

I had been told previously that there was an 'English' service at 11.00am. That was misinformation; the English service had taken place at 8.00am, well before my reveille. However, on meeting one of the Assistant Priests, who was, coincidently, called Matthew, he told me that the Swahili service started at 11.00am. Well I was here, so why not!

Left: The Rev Matthew. He was a very cheery chap, spoke good English and was impressively togged up. He said there were three of them about to conduct the service.

There was a decent sized congregation including several tourists. In fact people seemed to drift in and out as the mood took them.

The most impressive feature was the band and choir. The songs they sung and danced to were tuneful and skilfully harmonised. Very jolly indeed and had people dancing in the aisles. This was not so much a 'service' as a 'performance'.

It all seemed remarkably informal. Right: The senior priest, called Godwin as I discovered, conducted the service. It was all in Swahili of course so I hadn't a clue what was being said (not much different to English services in my experience) but it did not spoil the fun.

Left: The Rev Matthew delivered a sermon. It was not very long and I'm sure he spoke a lot of wise words.

I am probably being rather ambitious here, but I attach 3 videos taken with my little camera and with a shaky hand. If they are playable the sound quality is poor and does not do justice to the songs and music heard in situ.

The service lasted about an hour and all, even me, seemed to enjoy it. There is hope for me yet!

On to more general matters. The weather is hotting up and the regular morning heavy showers are disappearing. I have adopted four main 'watering holes' which all have their advantages and disadvantages. At least I can now find my way to them without getting lost.

Right: Antonio's Garden and Spa Hotel which is close to my little hotel. It features a decent bar with efficient and obliging staff. In fact all the staff I have met in these establishments have been similarly cheerful, polite and efficient.

This place also has a most convenient 'work station' (right side of bar) with a table, power point and even a map of the world on the wall. It is from here I am writing this, aided by a glass of red wine. Unfortunately the WiFi connection can be somewhat intermittent.

It also features a large dining area with a swimming pool and 'loungers' at the back (left) There is a large TV projection screen near the bar. I was persuaded by a lovely old Swahili local, whose eyesight is failing, but is a fanatical Manchester United football fan (he wears the shirt), to sit and watch a whole footy match between Man U and Man City (0-0) to give him a running commentary. I have little interest in football..but Hey Ho!

There is a danger aspect to this place. The dining area has several palm trees growing between the tables. These produce coconuts of course. Every so often there is a loud crash as a ripe coconut plummets to earth. Seriously harmful, if not just messy, if you happen to be underneath and get clobbered by one. Coco-nutted perhaps.

I had an interesting experience here. One morning I found my little camera had disappeared. The last place I remembered having it was in Antonio's the previous night. This was quite upsetting as it is a fairly vital part of my equipment. I went back and was told by the bar staff that they hadn't seen it. I rather gave up hope of seeing it again. Depressing! I'm normally so careful to check my kit...and no, I wasn't pissed the night before! Having resigned myself to this loss (I still had my mobile phone for photos), I had lunch there and then, more in hope than expectation, called in at reception on the way out. They had my camera. Elation! Apparently the Maasai night watchman had found it and handed it in. Amongst such poor people this act of honesty was impressive. I found the Maasai and duly rewarded him.

Concerning football, this country has reinforced my opinion that there are only three things which foreigners, even in the depths of Africa or the outback of Asia, all know about Britain. They are: Premier League football, the Royal Family and Mr Bean. Mr Bean's name features on several fronts, such as this boat at the Old Harbour (left).

This edition is long enough and I will describe my other haunts in the next. I hope those videos work...I'm not confident.

Right: Actually, before I forget, I must apologise to the policeman to whom I take my hat off when I see him. I got his name wrong previously. He is called Sergeant Oman; the cheerful and impeccably dressed upholder of law 'n order in central Stone Town. I have yet to witness any unlawfulness or disorder.