Back to visit Victoria Falls, or 'Mosi-oa-Tunya' (Smoke that Thunders) in the local Nianja lingo. Did you know that there are 72 languages in Zambia? It was an overcast day wth some heavy rain which was a bit of a nuisance, but you are likely to get wet from the spray anyway. The scale of these Falls is immense. They are about a mile and a half long with a drop of 355ft. It is the world's largest curtain waterfall, a series of cataracts. It is difficult, especially with my little camera and limited skills, to get a photo which portrays the true vastness due to the spray and mist kicked up....and the noise is deafening.
Left: Not my photo of course, but this aerial shot shows the Falls and Zambezi water system crashing down and channelled through a zig-zag of five narrow vertically sided gorges before running generally east, via Lake Kariba, to the mouth at the Indian Ocean in Mozambique. It also shows the rail/road bridge running west into Zimbabwe. Downstream in the gorges is where they do lots of 'white-water rafting' and canoeing. I've seen videos of these perilous looking activities and as I don't like submerging myself I have not been tempted to try it!
Left: White-water rafting on the Zambezi. Not my photo and not my idea of fun.
Down here people have gone potty about wearing 'anti-covid' face-masks. I was forcibly told by a security guard to put one on as I went into the park system. There were few tourists around and we were completely out in the open air. What a nonsense. Of course I, and everyone else I saw, took them off when through the gate. It is all due to 'Government Protocol' I was told (they all take them off when in bars and restaurants of course).
As an aside, every little shop, and even the tiny entry lodge here has to have (Government Protocol again) a portrait of the President, Mr Lungu, on the wall (left). A bit OTT in my opinion.
Throught the gate there are an abundance of little trails leading along the Falls, down past and into the gorges (steep steps) and along to the road/rail bridge. On entry there is yet another statue of Dr Livingstone (right) to greet you. He is portrayed peering across to the western side.
Walking along parallel to the Falls I did my best to get some photos (as I did in 2014). Not easy while trying not to get my little camera wet.
Right: Each 'cataract' has a name. Around the middle is the 'Armchair Fall'.
Left: Walking down to the 'Knife-Edge Bridge'. This 50 metre long narrow bridge crosses the first gorge and is often completely shrouded in spray and mist. On this occasion it was miraculously clear. It is a 300ft drop over the side. I do not have a good head for heights on bridges so tried not to look down.
Right: At the end of the first gorge is the very deep swirling whirlpool called 'Boiling Pot'. It is here that the bodies of any animals (hippos etc), and humans, that carelessly get swept over the Falls tend to end up, normally washed up on the north-east side.
Below: A quick vid to, hopefully, demonstrate the noise and power of a small part of the Falls.
Left: A elevation diagram of the Falls. Click on to enlarge and maybe read.
Right: Looking back up to the Knife-Edge bridge from the trail to the rail/road bridge. These photos do not adequately show the height and vertiginous nature of the terrain.
Left: The rail/road bridge leading into Zimbabwe. A magnificent piece of British engineering completed in 1905. The steel sections were manufactured in Glasgow and shipped out.
Right: The story of the bridge. You should be able to click on to enlarge and read. It was the dream-child of Cecil Rhodes to connect south and north Rhodesia.
It is from the centre of this bridge that they conduct bungee jumps. Not wishing to brag, I have done a couple of bungee jumps in New Zealand...not so scared of those and quite exhillarating (see NZ blog from 2011). One of the problems here is the cost! Apparently they change about $250 per jump! That is frightening. The photo left shows (just) a punter dangling from the elastic band....boat recovery at the bottom.
Right: .....and a view down from the jump platform. Other costly entertainments here are the helicopter and micro-lite trips over the Falls and down the gorges. Not so many here now due to lack of (wealthy) tourists, but they make a hell of a racket and rather spoil the natural ambience of the place. An engine failure here would have interesting consequences.
Left: Baboons! These ugly greedy pestilential creatures with fangs live in a large 'troop' in the area around the Falls. They are a menace and will attack anyone carrying what they might consider to be food. The yellow 'Shopright' supermarket bags are a favourite target. I tried to stay well clear of them but they loiter in ambush along the trails. Are they protected? If so they shouldn't be. I held on to my camera carefully.
I think that has just about 'done' Victoria Falls. On to something different tomorrow. Looking forward to a 'sunset cruise'...or 'booze cruise' to be more accurate.
No bungee nor base jumping from the bridge??? Recommend in the blog to bring own gear.
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