BACK TO LIVINGSTONE (I PRESUME). ZAMBIA

27th Dec 2020 - 4th Jan 2021

View north up the Zambezi from the Waterfront verandah. 

The New Year came and it didn't look any better than the old one. I decided to take a break from the arduous life on the farm and fly down to Livingstone. I booked in to the same Lodge as I used 6 years ago; Victoria Falls Waterfront, on the eastern bank of the Zambesi, about 3 miles upstream from Victoria Falls and the border with Zimbabwe.

Before I left I 'inspected' the daily 5.00pm Farm Security Guards parade (left). Their drill was really quite good. 20 minutes of marching drill was followed by 25 minutes of inspection and haranguing by the Guard Commander, all in English (for my benefit?). Considering most of the Guard only spoke Bemba I rather suspect it fell on deaf ears. I have a video (below) of some of their drill; not the best bits (missed those) but gives you an idea!

Right: One of the 'fertilisers'. Different jobs involve wearing different coloured overalls. Guards hi-vis yellow, Fertlisers orange, Foremen blue etc. Quite a good system.

The flight from Ndola, courtesy of Proflight Aviation in a Jetstream 41 turbo-prop, via a stopover in Lusaka, to Livingstone (Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport) was efficient and took about 3 hours in total. It was a 30 minute taxi ride to the Waterfront and I booked in at 12.30pm. Forever the cheapskate, instead of using one of the de-luxe riverside chalets, I opted for a tent in the back garden (left). It is quite comfortable.

There are notices around the place such as this (right). I only hope they (hippos etc.) can read! I'm told hippos, which come ashore during the night to graze, attack humans and run fast. However I don't think they can climb trees. I have ear-marked a few trees to climb in extremis.

Left: Another warning sign. I must confess I hadn't considered taking a monkey out for dinner......unless it offered to pay of course.

Right! A substantial barbeque near the bar.

Left: The bar area which features a small swimming pool, much favoured by the children.

Right: I noticed one poor chap was missing a leg. It brought to mind the warning about crocodiles. As I remembered, it is a very welcoming establishment. This time I have met the charming (and efficient) owners, Graham and his wife Venice. 

One evening, as a treat to myself, I popped over to the luxurious and very expensive Royal Livingstone Hotel (left) down near the Falls. I sat on the verandah sipping a martini and tucked into a bag of peanuts. 

Right: When these stripey donkeys suddenly made an appearance on the lawn. They seemed very tame. I hoped they were not being stalked by lions.

They obviously, and generously, help to supply some of the sumptuous carpetings inside the hotel (left)..

.......when not playing with lions.

I have now established a suitably economic relationship with a taxi driver used by the Lodge (Patrick) and his deputy (Gift). They are very reliable, amusing company and honest. I went for a day's shopping in Livingstone to buy some essentials, such as mozzie repellant. They appeared to be out of stock of hippo and crocodile repellant.

Right: Passing an advert for the Livingstone Tennis Club. I might investigate further.

Left: The famous Capitol cinema on Mosi-oa-Tunya Street (Smoke that Thunders; the local name for the Falls). It was built in 1931 by a wealthy Jewish gentleman, Marcus Grills, when this place was in Northern Rhodesia. I think it is still functioning...but maybe not during this 'covid' period about which, unlike the north of the country or Zanzibar, the Livinstonians seem peculiarly obsessed. Face-masks everywhere, even if mostly worn around the chin!

Back to the old Livingstone Museum which has expanded considerably since my last visit.

Left: The redoubtable Dr Livingstone still stands guard outside. He holds a remarkably stout stick. Probably an anti-hippo and crocodile device.

Right: ....as does the old 'Chippy', the De Havilland Canada Mk 1 Chipmunk aircraft. I can't work out the connection because I used to fly them and I'm damned sure Dr D Livingstone did not!

Inside the museum there are now several halls, the initial ones devote themselves to pre-history in East Africa, which is where the human race started. From 'Homo Erectus' (2 million years ago) through several 'homo' species such as Homo Neanderthalis (400,000 to 40,000 years ago) to Homo Sapiens (us now, from 300,000 years ago). I am reading an excellent book on the subject entitled 'Sapiens; A Brief History of Humankind' by Noah Harari. A fascinating insight into human development...and quite worrying!

Above: Top, Homo  Erectus. Bottom left, Later Neanderthal. Bottom right, Homo Sapiens.

Right: Artist's impressions of Erectus and Neanderthal. I'm not convinced that they are extinct.

There are several dioramas and displays of progress throughout the ages from this 'hunter gatherer' scene (left) through to Zambian Independence in 1964.

Right: Display of old African weaponry.

A hall was devoted to the great Dr L. As before, lots of letters written by him to friends and colleagues in very wonky handwriting.  Well, he was a doctor after all! Or maybe shaking from malaria.....or writing in a sedan chair carried by natives (not easy). 

Right: A poster advertising a slave sale. Dr David, a veritable bible basher, was vehemently anti-slavery but I bet he had to use them on his arduous expeditions.

I was struck by this picture of his wife, Mary Moffat. It might explain why he was so keen to wander around Africa for extended periods. She predeceased him.

Right: A litter of the kind used by Livingstone on his expeditions. This model is a 4 manpower twin-shaft self-stabilising coupé convertible de-luxe.

There was a 'temporary' exhibition of hairstyles in Zambia. Fascinating I'm sure, but I gave that a miss.

Right: ....and this replica statue, the original is in Lusaka, of the memorial to Independence entitled "The Black Man Breaks his Chains". This gave rise to some contentious graffiti which stated "The Black Man Will Break Anything". (I didn't say it!).

Left: An interesting signpost in the centre of town.

As mentioned, I am repeating a lot of what I did in January 2014 but assume my reader will not bother to go back and read those past blogs! Back to The Waterfront for a welcome glass of beer!