THE TRAIN TO KANCHANABURI

2nd Jan 2022

The ferry up the river to Pier 10.

It is about 90 miles (130km) north-west from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi. I decided to go by train. I like trains. The only railway station in Bangkok which provides this rail service leaves from Thonburi, across the river to the to the north-west of the main city. There is no MRT or BTS service to get there and you need to go up the river by ferry from Central Pier to the nearest docking point at Pier 10.

The ferry journey is cheap (30 Baht = 70p) and takes about half an hour. Rather a pleasant little cruise and involved a few stop-offs at other piers.

Right: Up past the Oriental Hotel on the east bank. They have their own private pier, of course.

Left: A stop at the very elaborate Buddhist temple, Wat Arun, on the west bank.

Right: Past what I think what is the Grand Palace in the distance over on the east bank.

On arrival at Pier 10 I had worked out a general pedestrian route to the railway station. It is not close by. Extraordinary, I thought, that this railway station should be so well separated from any other main transport hub. I suppose I could have taken a taxi, but I am allergic to taxis in cities that I do not know. I have been stung before. If they know you are an ignorant foreigner there are several scams that they can pull a) take you miles out on a circuitous route to bump up the fare b) Charge by a meter which they have carefully fiddled c) Get lost because they are cowboys and haven't a clue where you want to go d) at worst, and I have heard of this happening (not to me), take you out to some desolate place where they are met by fellow hoods who rob you, or worse. Lastly, they never have change if you present them with a large denomination note. OK, maybe I'm unjustly maligning honest Bangkok taxi drivers, but I am still allergic. Anyway, I needed the excercise. I walked.

It was about a 20 minutes foot-slog and I was guided on my way, despite language difficulties, by some, as always, delightfully helpful Thai people; a security guard, a bloke at the entrance to a wat and a policeman. I arrived at the station in plenty of time for the train due to depart at 1.55pm. Thonburi used to be, centuries ago, the seat of the King before he moved his Palace to the east side. It is  a very different environment to the east bank Bangkok. It is very 'Thai', low-rise and has none of the western high-life fripperies. Apart from a few notable sites it is not a tourist area.

Left: Thonburi railway station is very basic. There are few facilities. To get to a different 'platform' or train you just walk across the tracks.

With time to spare I had a cup of coffee at a nearby simple 'tin table' cafe. It was at the edge of an enormous, 500yd long, covered fruit and veg market (right) which was curiously deserted (other than by fruit and veg). I gathered that it came to life in the evening.

This was to be a 2hr45min journey in fairly basic (3rd class, the only class) carriages (left). Having said that the seating was perfectly comfortable, the train uncrowded and the cost of the ticket was 100 Baht (£2.50). What a bargain! Vendors came on board at various stops to sell 'refreshments'. I had taken my own; some beer and a packet of peanuts. No alcohol is ever sold or permitted in any transport or transport 'hub' in this country. They must have heard about British football supporters.

2¾ hours seemed a long time to cover 90 miles, but I wasn't in a rush. In fact the train travelled at a max speed of about 40mph and sounded, with much graunching noise, as if the driver had left the brakes on. Also, within the first hour we seemed to have stopped briefly at a small station, often with a large Wat, every 5 minutes. There were many stops but all brief.  Probably just to let a monk off. (How do you let a monk off? Light blue touch paper and stand well clear of course). BTW, the rear carriage was reserved exclusively for monks. One stop was at a small village named Okkai Thenuu. It must have some Hibernian connection!

I was expecting the scenery to become hilly or even mountainous but until we got within a couple of miles of Kanchanaburi it was pancake flat and agricultural with palm trees, tall grasses, the occasional field of crops and a few 'bushy top' trees. Nothing very interesting. So, at a sedate pace, we arrived, graunching to a jerky halt, at Kanchanaburi at 4.45pm.

Right Kanchanaburi station. As with most Thai railway stations it was neat and tidy and decorated with flowers.