MORE SIGHTS IN KANCHANABURI

 4th - 7th Jan 2022

The entrance to the Commonwealth Graves Commission War Cemetery.

At the southern end of the main touristy area is the Commonwealth Graves WW2 Cemetery. It is immaculatey manicured and maintained and quite a moving spectacle.

Plaques inside the entrance include this one (left) and another devoted to Indian Forces who died on the railway but buried in a cemetery of their own religious persuasion. There was meant to be a Visitors' Book, but that was missing. I think you had to find an 'official' to access it.

Right: There are about 7,000 graves here and a spot where 300 were cremated and their ashes buried. The area is divided into sections; British (3568), Australian (1362) and Dutch (1896) being the main ones along with other Commonwealth countries' graves in seperate plots. The Americans repatriated all their dead. 

It was difficult to find any specific grave because the rows are not numbered.

Each grave is marked by a mounted bronze plaque (as left), many with shrubs or flowers alongside.  Most had very touching epitaphs. They all seemed in pristine condition.

Right and below: Another couple of examples. 

In an adjoining field is the 'Chinese' Cemetery. Again, this is immaculate with very elaborate headstones. It is older than the Commonwealth one. I'm afraid I didn't do any research on this so not sure what the history is. Someone (probably OMPITA, the research, critique and proof-reading department) will let me know.

Left: On an adjacent street is this museum. It is a definite improvement on the one at the Bridge. It contains some well presented dioramas, photographs and wall displays. Plus, they give you a free cup of coffee in the café upstairs (entry fee £1.10p), and sell post-cards with stamps; a rarity in Thailand. I sent some and have gathered, against all the odds, that some have actually arrived in UK!

Right: A poor photo of a statue inside depicting a very sick POW with cholera being dragged to work by two colleagues suffering from malaria.

Left: A diagram of the railway built from just north-west of Bangkok to Rangoon, Burma. The distance was 258 miles and involved over 60,000 Allied POWs along with about 200,000 conscripted local labourers.

Right: A mock-up of a railway 'carriage' that carried POWs to far-flung work areas, when they didn't have to march. There were often about 30 packed into one of these 'cattle trucks' over several days with minimal rations, no windows or fresh air and no 'hygiene' facilities. OK, we complain about expensive British Railways which were (before Covid) similarly packed but at least some passengers got a seat and a fighting chance of finding a loo.

Left: A wall display which gives a fairly interesting account of what was involved in the daily routine of POWs. Click on to enlarge and you might be able to read it.

Right: A diorama of a camp operating theatre. There were no proper 'medical' anaesthetics and only very basic, often home made, surgical instruments. POW doctors did their best in appalling conditions.

Left: A photo of 'Hellfire Pass'. Somewhere I will be visiting later. An interesting section on the railway which involved much grief.

This is, on the whole, a decent museum and well worth visiting. Obviously much more on show than I can manage here. And the free cup of coffee!

I next decided to venture into the south of the town to find the 'JEATH' museum. This is an acronym for 'Japan, England, Australia/America, Thailand, Holland' ie. those countries involved in building the railway. It was mentioned in my Lonely Planet guide book as being worth a visit. It was a long walk, totally unsignposted and took me over a hour and a couple of miles getting lost through the commercial area to find it. I even found a Tourist Office which was closed, but there was a caretaker who hadn't even heard of this museum. It is by the river and looked after by a Wat next door.

Before I got there I wandered, lost, through some 'guarded' establisment. The 'guard' was busy mending a light fitting and couldn't speak any English so he didn't stop me. I don't know what the place was but it had a heavily padlocked gate at the far end (right). There was no fence either side of this gate! I thought this was rather an apt pictorial representation of all these futile anti-Covid measures.

I eventualy found the museum which had a £1 entry fee purchased from an old lady, asleep when I got there, in a scruffy kiosk at the gate (left). I was the only visitor, and probably had been for days which was not

surprising considering the difficulty in finding the place.

Right: It was not the most inspiring display and consisted of a three-sided mock-up of a POWs' bamboo attap living quarters. Everything the POWs had was made from bamboo (apart from their loin cloths). Each of the three sides was abot 30yds long and the same as in the photo. Along the sides were dozens of photographs or prisoners' drawings, most of which were very faded and the captions illegible (or in Thai). You will notice from the pic that 'No photography is allowed'. I cannot think for the life of me why not! There really was bugger all to take photos of anyway. So I did. As said, I was the only person in the place,

I show one of the many pictures (right), and I really couldn't see many that inspired me to record them. This one is painted of a POW suffering from somwhat unpleasant looking  'jungle sores'.

There was a building in the open space between the three-sided attap. I don't know what was in it because it was locked.

I wandered over to the adjacent elaborately decorated Wat, around which were sitting a few rather bored looking monks. I didn't bother to go in. Once you've seen inside one Wat you've seen them all. 

By the time I returned to the gate the whole 'museum' had been locked and chained. I suspect I was their only visitor of the day and they weren't expecting any more. It was a long walk back.

As normal when staying in places I am not familiar with I booked myself (via booking.com) in for one night, on spec, to a hotel called The Bridge in the centre of the tourist area. It was very pleasant, comfortable and reasonable value at £30 (equivalent) for the first night. I have no complaints. Also, as normal, I then do a bit of a recce to see if there is anywhere better and/or cheaper. This town has hundreds of guest houses and hotels. By chance I found a place called 'Siam Guest House' at the southern end of the main street. It was absolutely marvellous. A delightful owner and small staff, including his mother who spent her whole time working in the garden and ironing etc and handing out her delicious home-made toffees!. The place was in a quiet cul-de-sac and had an amusing and eclectic arrangement of garden ornaments plus a small moat with fish. The room was excellent with good wi-fi and all mod cons. A basic breakfast was included. All this for 600 Baht (£12) per night. I mention this merely as a recommendation if anyone reading this waffle happens to be thinking of visiting Kanchanaburi.

I said earlier that there are many ex-pats living here. I found a bar, the Sawistree, at the northern end of the street which is owned and run by a charming Danish guy, Palle, and his Thai wife, Sawistree. Another good find. He was a very hospitable host and a fount of knowledge for ignorant tourists. The clientele were almost exclusively from Europe/Scandinavia. Two Brits had just arrived, rather footsore, having trekked 80 miles down the railway. One guest came from Greenland and waxed lyrical about the country (it's Danish of course). He nearly persuaded me to visit. Icebergs and fish are their speciality. One day, maybe!

Palle hired out motorbikes, scooters, bicycles (including tandems with a buggy on the back) and this (left) a unicycle! I remember many years ago nearly crippling myself trying, unsuccessfully, to ride one of these. I wonder how many takers he gets, even at half price?

The be-masked Thais are paranoid about this Covid bug (except in crowded bars of course). Right: This chemist's shop in town has gone to ridiculous extremes. You have to stand on the pavement, douse youself with 'sanitiser' and any cash and goods transactions are carried out from behind a full screen by using a tray on a string pulley system up and down a 3 yard ramp. I ask you! (see padlocked gate with no fence).

Further explorations out of town to follow.