A DAY IN CASCAIS

 16th Jul 2023

One of the beaches at Cascais

Originally a small fishing village in the 15th century, Cascais was transformed by the Lisbon aristocracy and royalty into a beach-side holiday town for the wealthy. By the 19th century it featured many Grand Houses and hotels. It is still a 'magnet' for seaside loving tourists and locals, if no longer royalty and aristocracy.

The town lies about 25 miles west of Lisbon on the Atlantic coast and a 30 minute  train ride from Cais do Sodré station. I had a slight hiccup here as, when buying the train ticket, I left my trusty green Waitrose 'bag for life' on the ticket desk (I've had it for 5 years, bought for 30p when Waitrose made good plastic bags). It contained things like my guide book, maps, notebook and, crucially, my hat. I only realised I had left it 15 minutes later and the train was due to depart in 10 minutes. I rushed back to the ticket desk, didn't see the bag and barged in front of the queue to ask the ticket man if he had seen it (more in hope than expectation). He went into a room behind him and reappeared with my bag! Another helpful Portuguese. I just managed to catch the train.

My Lonely Planet guide book suggested getting off the train at Monte Estoril, one stop short of Cascais, to 'experience a delightful 1.5km walk along the seafront past attractive cafés and impressive stately houses'. So I did. I saw the 'delightful' seafront promenade 50ft down from the platform. Unfortunately there appeared to be no way to get down there, short of deploying a rope and tackle. I searched, but eventually found myself walking along the busy main road into town. I'm beginning to lose faith in my Portuguese Lonely Planet (see previous blog for previous whinge).

Left: One of the 5 main beaches along the seafront. They were all busy with paddling, sunbathing holiday-makers. All the large sunshades and loungers were fully occupied. I'm not sure how you acquired one. Perhaps get there at dawn and, having got one, make sure it is permanently occupied, even overnight, for the duration of your stay. Many took their own little sunshades as you can see here.

Right: Another beach. The promenade behind the beaches was lined with cafés and bars which, being a non-paddler and non-sunbather, I made use of. I had a rather good lunch of steak and chips.

Left: A rocky pool. There were quite a few kite-surfers, yachts and canoeists off-shore. I was told this part of the coast can be renowned for it's large 'surfing' waves, as per the town of Nazaré, about 50 miles north, which holds the world record for the biggest 'surfing' wave ever. Here the sea was calm as a millpond. I was encouraged to visit Navaré, but didn't on the basis that if I got there the sea would be as flat as a pancake. It must be seasonal.

Right: Examples of some of the 'grand' houses which lined the streets, mostly now converted into hotels or apartments.

Left: There is a medieval castle, or the remains thereof, at the western side of town. The renovated outer walls are there and I went inside for a look. The centre is now just a large open square sided with a couple of cafés and an art gallery, so not very inspiring or photographic. I had a cup of coffee and left. On the seafront outside are four enormous marinas housing hundreds of yachts and other vessels. This photo of one of them shows the southern castle wall in the background.

Right: Standing ouside the castle wall is this statue of a chap who reminded me a bit of Captain Mainwaring of Dad's Army fame. The plaque beneath read 'Homenagem do Municipio de Cascais ao Rei D Carlos 1' (1863 - 1908). I am none the wiser.

Left: The pretty town Square and, again, those intricate mosaic patterned floors. This one really gives a wavy 3D effect. This town was packed with visitors. As always my photos don't seem to show this. I suspect I wait for people to get out of the way before I take a photo. Believe me, it was busy.

Right: Inside the old town there is a maze of small streets with wall-to-wall restaurants, bars and cafés, which were busy. Believe me, despite the photo.

Left: The mandatory Oirish Bear, Cooley's. I looked in and it didn't even serve Guiness. The patrons must have vanished when I picked up my camera.

Right: I had a refreshing glass of wine on the roof-top of the weirdly and inexplicably named establishment called 'House of Wonders'. That's why I went in. There was nothing particularly 'wonderful' about it as you bought your drink on the ground floor and then had to carry it up four flights of stairs to the top, and there wasn't even a good view. I didn't spill a drop.

Left: Another small and pretty square with yet another statue of another deceased dignitary, or perhaps they just make them for decoration.

So that was Cascais. It obviously has  great appeal for tourists, especially at weekends, and I noticed many Americans there, as well as other 'foreigners'. Pleasant though it is I felt most of a day spent there was more than enough for me.

Back on the train to Lisbon for a quiet evening after all that excitement. Actually, I did my laundry in a laundrette  and then had a game of Pool with an unwitting victim in the 'local' near my hotel called 'The Shisha Bar'. Interesting place, where several customers puff away on those 'middle-eastern' shisha pipes. I didn't try it, but they serve respectfully cheap wine and beer.