ON TO LISBON

 13th -14th Jul 2023

Plaça do Comércio featuring the Triumphal Arch and statue of King José 1 in south Lisbon

Following on from the previous, on the bus from Monchique to Portimão I sat adjacent to a charming young couple (I dread to think what they thought of me) with whom I struck up a conversation. He was Portuguese and worked in London. She, a very attractive young lady, came from Norfolk. They were on there way to Faro to fly back to UK. We walked together (they couldn't get rid of me) to the railway station in Portimão and shared a train as far as the town of Tunes where, luckily for them, I had to change trains to go on to Lisbon. Again, the train service was exemplary; on time, comfortable, good free Wifi, excellent buffet car and the total cost for the 3hr+ journey was 12.5 Euro (OK, I got a reduction due to old age...which is a bonus standard throughout Portugal..also for museums etc). There is an advantage to ageing in these parts.

I arrived at Lisbon main 'Oriente' station at 6.00pm. My 'cheapo' hotel was at the other (southern, riverside) end of town and involved a longish Metro journey. It was quite a faff to work out how to buy the correct ticket from the automatic machine even though instructions could be displayed in English. I was helped. It took me a day or two to get the hang of it. My 'hotel' (paid for in advance), the Alfama, turned out to be crap, and that's saying something by my standards. Some rather grumpy chap (unusual for Portugal) met me there (it was unmarked and difficult to find), showed me to a very basic bedroom with shared bathroom, and then buggered off never to be seen again. I just left the next morning leaving the keys in my door. I found a much better, even cheaper and well located one for the next four nights! (Residential do Sul at 52 Av. Almirente Reis, if you're interested) which was conveniently next to the Anjos Metro station.

The next day was spent wandering the old city. It is wall-to-wall bars and cafés with many tourists plus many elegant old buildings, squares and statues of expired dignitaries .

Left: There are lots of 'souvenir' shops such as this. Three on this small street alone. I bought some postcards. Call me old-fashioned but I still enjoy sending postcards. They seemed to be manned predominantly by people from the Indian sub-continent, and charmingly so. I had an amusing chat with the Bangladeshi proprietor who told me that there is a large Bangladeshi community here. I soon discovered that Portugal, with it's past large colonial empire, is now host to many from their ex-colonies in South America, Africa, Indian sub-continent, Far East etc. Somewhat similar to Britain perhaps. PS. Our postal system in UK seems to have completely broken down so I doubt any of my postcards will be received this year, if ever.

Right: Many of the building façades feature this pretty blue and white pattern. This became apparent in several of the places I subsequently visited.

Left: All the pavements and most squares in the towns I visited are paved with this attractively designed black and white patterned marble type cobble. The designs vary. A lot of work must have gone into this and they all seem to be in a good state of repair. There must be teams of maintenance personnel to keep them in good nick and they are obviously very hard wearing.

Right: I think this rather extraordinary 'statue' is in the Martim Moniz square. It is very lifelike. Not sure what or whom it represents. From now on, be warned, I have taken various photos of interesting monuments and statues but probably can't remember where and who they are.

Martim Moniz is remembered by various streets, and even a Metro station, named after him. Apparently he was a Christian knight in the 13th century who was credited with outstanding gallantry when assaulting the Muslim Moor-held St.George's castle here. Legend has it he led his soldiers to attack the castle and wedged himself into the closing front gate, to prevent the defenders from shutting it, thus allowing his troops to enter and capture the castle, and he died as a result. This, I was subsequently informed, is a myth as Mr (Sir) Moniz published various letters two years after his supposed death. Who knows, and why let the the truth in the way of a good story.

Left: the Triumphal arch at the southern end of Rua Augusta. It was built to commemorate the city's reconstruction after the earthquake in 1755. There is a lift to the top which, of course, I took.

Right and below: Views from the top. Looking north up Rua Augusta. All this area is known as the 'old' or 'historic' district and is very touristy...with good reason.

Left: View to the riverside to the south.

Right: To the Square below.

Left: The square is surrounded by long colonades with several jolly outside cafés and restaurants.

There was a military band marching and playing up the street to the right. After descent I went to watch, however the police had blocked it off. Apparently this was a welcoming party for the visiting President of Cuba (whomever that is now).

Right: Looking  north-west to the castle of St.George. I would be visiting that later.

Left: There is an enormous statue on the top featuring someone wrapped in a bath towel putting wreaths on the heads two unsuspecting victims. I'm sure it represents something significant. 

Right: Lisbon Cathedral nearby. It was built by the Christian crusaders in 1147. I'm not a great aficionado of churches and cathedrals. They seem all very similar inside, just the size varies! However I decided to go in and look around and hoped I wouldn't be struck down by a bolt of lightening from Heaven,

Left: The general view of the interior. As said, much like any other Cathedral.

Right: Sitting inside one of the many side- chapels were these 'worshippers' wearing their sacred 'Ronaldo' T-shirts.

There is a museum attached which prohibits photography (why?) and features lots of display cases with elaborate golden shirts inside.

Right: This is the room which is set aside for the 'Patriarch' (I think that is what they call the head honcho) to get changed out of his jeans and T-shirt into more appropriate garb. I note it features 7 hats....one for each day of the week?

I went into a wine shop and had a look at what was on offer. Unsurprisingly port featured largely. If you 'click on' to this photo (left) to enlarge you may be as gobsmacked as I was to discover the price of these bottles. I will not be bringing one back. The cost of the middle one is more than I will spend in total on this trip! Just think, if you did take out a bank loan and bought it and when going through security at the airport, as it was over 100ml, it was confiscated or chucked in the bin! Or it got broken in transit...and badly stained one's clothes.

Tourist transport around the city included bus tours and lots of Thai-inspired tuk-tuks which have become popular in many touristy cities worldwide. There were also these quaint looking 'old' cars/taxis (right). I didn't try one so have no idea what it cost. Once I had sussed out the Metro and tram system everything else was in easy walking distance...and I needed the excercise!

Left: The Museo de Dinheiro (Money Museum) in the Plaça de Municipio. This was originally the HQ of the Portuguese Bank. Just another example of fine architecture which features so largely around the city. The city Post Office is on the other side of this square. 

Like many other touristy cities, Lisbon has it's fair share of beggars. You can never be sure if they are genuine or a scam. Many seem to feature dogs and cats to gain sympathy. This chap here (right) was sitting with two rather fat dogs. His sign read: "Help. I am deaf. I and Dogs need to eat". It raised the question as to why he kept them in the first place if he couldn't afford to feed them, and why they were so fat. I was tempted to tell him if he was that starving he could always eat the dogs! Of course I then realised that as he was deaf he wouldn't hear me.

Left: Quite a clever 'living statue'. I have seen many of these before but this chap put on quite a good performance and attracted several onlookers to wander around him trying to work out how he stayed airborne. I gave him 50c for his efforts.

That will have to do for the time being. I am well behind with this 'blogging' lark and have much more to report from Lisbon and the surrounding area. I must be slowing down.