TO PORTUGAL. ALGARVE

 7th - 13th  July 2023

Statues of 'plane spotters' at Faro airport

I departed from Southend airport (SEN) to Faro on the 7th July. SEN has changed since I was last there, working, 20 years ago. Having booked a one-way EasyJet flight through one of those 'cut-price' agencies, I had been well and truly tricked by, somehow, unintentionally booking my small cabin bag into the hold. Explaining to EasyJet (by phone) that I wanted it in the cabin overhead locker (which would have been cheaper) I was told that their 'system' could not allow me to change. Lesson learnt: find the cheap prices via the agency and then book direct with the airline, otherwise you have no comebacks. I actually confronted the very pleasant and helpful man at check-in to see if he could facilitate the change, ie. simply take my cabin bag on board and cancel the hold charge. He said he was not allowed to rebate my hold charge, and of course I could take it on board but that would cost me an extra £48! The basic seat price was only £66 and I had paid an extra £24 (inadvertently) for the unwanted hold baggage charge. He agreed with me that these 'cheapo' airlines made a packet from baggage charges. What a rip-off (and he tacitly agreed!). As it happened the overhead lockers on the 'plane were almost empty. 

Left: The departure lounge at Southend. It was very quiet, very efficient, uncrowded and rather pleasant. Southend is one of the more enlightened UK airports which now does not necessitate putting liquids into separate plastic bags, or anything else for that matter, it all just goes through the X-ray machine. I wonder when all other airports will catch on!

It was a late evening 2½hr and uneventful flight arriving at Faro at 11.30pm. There was quite a long Q at passport control and I got into the arrivals hall at 00.15hrs. Of course I had no accomodation booked, but sourced a cheap hostel within 20 mins walk of the airport. I decided to give it a go for a short sleep. Found it, and it was closed, so walked back. OK, no problem, a café was still open at 2.00am and after a cup of coffee and a sandwich I joined several other scruffy dossers and lay down for a kip on an airport bench (yes, I can still manage that). At 6.00am I found the airport bus stop and, after waiting 20 mins, caught a bus to the railway station (2 Euros). I was aiming to get to the town of Monchique 20 miles north up the mountains from coastal town of Portimāo . A very obliging ticket seller at the station sold me a ticket (3 Euros) to Portimão and told me where I could get a bus onwards from there. After another coffee the very slow train left at 7.10am for the 50 mile journey. It was a most interesting and enjoyable trip rattling along the coast and up into the hills on occasions. We stopped at 12 villages/towns before arriving at Portimāo at 8.30am. Another helpful official at the station gave me clear instructions (they all seem to speak decent English) on where to find the bus stop, a 10 minute walk, and which bus to get. At 9.15am the bus arrived (rather a comfortable one) with a helpful and polite driver. So far all the Portuguese 'officials' I have met have been so polite and helpful! 5 Euros for that journey and, after a 25 mile switchback ride up the mountains, I arrived in Monchique at approx 10.00am and settled into a very pleasant café/bar restaurant for a glass of Super Bok beer (1.50c Euro) while waiting for my hostess to collect me. I was amazed by how cheap and easy this journey was; bus and train total 10 Euros! It may not appeal to everyone but I rather enjoy this rough and ready way to travel.

Right: Amusing 'statues' at the bus stop in Monchique.

Left: Our 'villa' in the hills. It was surrounded by forest with a terraced garden in front. The only place you could get a photo of the place was from the road about a mile down the hill. There were to be seven of us living here, some for longer than others. Rather luxurious, with swimming pool, and spacious verandah where the eating and drinking and 'socialising' took place.

Right: The panoramic view south from the verandah to the town of Portimão on the coast. You can see the bit of road from where the photo above was taken in centre. The area is heavily forested and scattered with several other similar 'villas'. It was very quiet and peaceful. Actually it was not so quiet and peaceful in August 2018 when an enormous forest fire broke out which swept the area and involved over 1000 firefighters (some brought in from Lisbon) plus aircraft 'drenchers' to get it under control after several days. As a result things like barbeques are now banned (drones will spot them, I was told). The forest appears to have more or less regenerated. Our charming hostess was due to celebrate her birthday later in the week (after I had left). One hoped that the candles on her cake would not cause a similar catastrophe.

Left: After an evening meal. Life here consisted predominently of sleeping, cooking, eating, drinking, reading, sunbathing, dips in the swimming pool, a daily trip to the supermarket in Monchique for supplies (three of the residents had hired cars), much gossip and hilarity. There was a workable, if temperamental, WiFi connection. I specialised in the sleeping, eating and drinking categories. I'm afraid I'm not into swimming or sunbathing. A couple of us occasionally ventured about 10 minutes walk up the hill to a pleasant café bar, the Paraiso de Montagna, for a change of scenery.

On one day we all ventured out for lunch at the Café Inglês (right) in the picturesque and touristy small town of Silves, about halfway down to Portimão. It was a charming eatery, after a bit of getting lost finding the place, with most amusing and attentive waiters, and good inexpensive food. Recommended.

There is a large castle there which we visited after lunch. It was guarded at the entrance by this fiercesome looking chap. Can't remember who it is. Prince Marigold of Silves perhaps.

I don't think I took any photos of the battlements and walkways around them, but saw this rather odd little statue (right) in the centre. I think it looks rather rude, or maybe I'm imagining it.

Left: A vault below ground was virtually empty apart from this display; a native lynx, two foxes and a few rabbits. How fascinating, I thought.

The drive home was memorable for our car, not mine I hasten to add, hitting a pothole (yes, they have them in Portugal) and bursting a tyre. We staggered on to a garage where, with the aid of the staff at the garage, the temporary spare was fitted. Again, the chaps who assisted were remarkably cheerful and helpful. I continue to have a very good impression of the local Portuguese. The couple who hired this car were due to drive back to Lisbon (150 miles) the next day to catch their flight back to UK. Fortunately, on driving back through Monfique we spotted a tyre repair shop which was closed but open early the next day.

I had decided that I would leave the villa with them as I think, after five days, I had done enough 'villaring' for the time being and my wandering instinct was kicking in. It was a very pleasant stay, but I was keen to travel around the country.

So I left early on the morning of the 13th and was deposited in Monfique while the car was being reshod. Next, a bus back to Portimão, and I will continue the journal from there.

Right: Saw this rather extraordinary mounted aeroplane next to a school playground in Portimão. It seemed rather incongruous and out of place. I expect a plane 'spotter' will tell me what it is.

Much more to follow as I have got a bit behind with all this blogging business, and the 'action' of touristing is yet to come.