AROUND THE COAST TO TAITUNG

 16th - 18th Dec 2023

The most interesting thing on the beach at Taitung!

It was another efficient, comfortable and on-time train from Kaohsiung. It took me south, around the bottom of the country and up the eastern side to the seaside town of Taitung. It was a 2hr 17min journey and passed through hilly/mountainous and densely forested countryside. Often we disappeared into very long tunnels.

The first thing that changed dramatically was the weather! All down the west coast it had been sunny and warm (mid 20sºc)  with blue skies. On turning north up the east coast it became overcast and drizzly. On arrival at Taitung Main Station at 1.17pm it was windy and cold. The Main Railway Station is 4 miles north of the town and there is a shuttle bus to get you to the bus station downtown. Fortunately, again, there is a decent Information Centre where I obtained a street map. There is no Metro and it was a 20 minute walk to my hotel (OK, I did get a bit lost). Having checked into a pretty moderate (cheap) hotel, I decided to go for a wander around town and down to the beach. The town is large, low-rise and well spread out, indeed 'sprawling' would describe it. The centre part is built on a fairly easy to navigate grid system, (but all the streets look the same!). There was the normal myriad of shops, lots of vegetable and meat shops and stalls, but nothing seemingly of any interest and many places were shuttered and closed. 

I ended up on the beach, which was utterly bereft of anything apart from rocky grey sand and scrubby grass. There were several people around and a sort of 'park' area at the northern end, but no cafés or even anywhere to sit down. Some tourists (I presume) were amusing themselves by taking photos of each other against the backdrop of a stranded wooden boat. Whoopee! It was still cold and windy.

 Left: Just away from the beach I passed a vast array of immaculately decorated tables all laid out for a major feast of some-sort, with a stage at one end and a long array of cooking facilities at the other preparing a serious banquet. I'm not sure what the occasion was (a wedding reception perhaps?) but with the weather as it was it was not going to be a comfortable occasion. Bad luck for the organisers and guests!

Right: Another pic of the less than inspiring beach!

I soon got the impression that Taitung was merely a staging post for more interesting National Park areas to the west. One of which, 10 miles north-west on the Luye Plateau, advertised ballooning, but certainly not at this time of year!

I decided that evening to find a pleasant relaxing bar. Not easy. One recommended in my 'guide book' was closed. After much walking I found, eventually, another which advertised itself as 'a sophisticated cocktail lounge'. It consisted of a narrow dimly lit room with a long bar and a few tables. Apart from me, the only people in there were a rather unenthusiastic barmaid and a middle aged bloke who, watching a karaoke screen and armed with a microphone and loudspeakers, was singing Chinese songs very loudly and tunelessly...non-stop. He was enjoying himself immensely. Which is more than can be said for me! I endured one (expensive) drink and left. I then read that the Moon Bar was the place to go. It turned out to be a cocktail bar on one of the upper floors of a Sheraton Hotel. Not my scene at all. I went back to my hotel. This town is obviously not much into evening entertainment, or maybe I have missed something.

The next day I decided to be a bit more adventurous and, consulting my guide book, decided, just out of curiosity and because there seemed to be bugger all of interest in Taitung, to take a bus to the town of Guanshan, 12 miles north in the hills. I had little idea of what it had to offer. It was a very comfortable (price 50p!) 41 seater bus and to begin with it only had me (and the driver of course) on board. It stopped at many places and the journey took 1hr 20mins. Right: The sign reads 'Welcome to Guanshan'. At least the weather was not too bad here.

I wandered and found a place that was hiring out bicycles. The young man managing the shop was very charming and persuaded me to hire an 'electric assisted' bike (plus helmet!) for 3 hours costing a mere £5. He suggested I take the 'Town Trail' which circumnavigated the town. 'Why not?' I thought. I hadn't planned anything else!

Left: Not exacty 'Tour de France' material.

He gave me a map, and I set off. The bike handled well and was indeed fairly effortless pedalling with its electric assistance. I had been told to switch the battery off if I stopped anywhere for more than 15 minutes. Right: The route (grey line around the outside). The start point was at the centre, just north of the railway line. First off south to the 'Waterfront Park', bottom left of the map, where I joined the 12km long 'trail' in an anti-clockwise direction. (OMPITA can you read these points and mark them?).

The route was well signposted and most was on a dedicated cycle path. There were no major inclines as the town is in a flat(ish) valley bottom surrounded by high hills. There was little chance of getting lost.

Right: There were several pit-stop areas en-route. One of which had WC facilities. (Correction: OMPITA Research Dept. examined the map in microscopic detail and discovered there are two WC facilities) I never met another bicyclist and only a couple of pedestrians when I used the opportunity to test the bell. It worked well.

Left: A statue, of whom I have no idea, which I encountered on the way around.

There was no exciting scenery or views, but a pleasant ride all the same. It took me just over an hour to return to the Waterfront Park where there is a shop and restaurant/café. I had time to spare so I stopped there for a cup of coffee and something to eat. I was there for the best part of an hour.

Left: A stage in front of a small lake at the Waterfront Park. They must hold some form of 'performances' in season. The place was fairly deserted at this time of year.

So, back on the trusty bike and it was only about 1 km back to the bike shop. Ahaa! I had not switched off the battery, so now no electric assistance and the 1 km was marginally uphill. Hard pedalling but I made it without sweating too much.

The bus ride back to Taitung was uneventful and I was back in town by early evening. I took the opportunity to do some laundry. One helpful aspect in all the towns/cities I have stayed at (so far) is that they have plentiful 'laundrettes'. I travel light so need to wash what few clothes I have regularly. Right: The nearby laundrette in Taitung. It was clean, efficient, simple to use and very cheap.

Left: I think this was Merry Christmas decoration at the Moon Bar in the Sheraton Hotel at which I didn't have a drink. They certainly go to town with their 'festive' decorations.

The only other vaguely interesting thing I saw in Taitung was a shopfront advertising, in English, "Dr Yu-Ju Chan. Psychiatric Help Available Here". I made a note but have lost the photo. I was tempted to pop in!

So that was Taitung, and not exactly an inspiring place to visit. I expect it is more 'vibrant' and interesting in the summer months.

Tally Ho! On north up the east coast.