TAIPEI 3

 4th - 5th Dec 2023

The elaborate entrance to Liberty Square at the north end.

Just next to the East Gate (photo on previous blog) is a large walled compound with an elaborately arched entrance to Liberty Square. It was constructed in the late 1970s to commemorate the return of a democratic Government in Taiwan.

Left: On the east side of the Square is the imposing National Concert Hall.

Left: On the west side of the Square is the equally imposing National Theatre. I don't recall what was playing at the time, but I suspect it was not The Mousetrap.

As I was walking down the side of the National Theatre I came across an impromptu performance by, I was told, a 'troupe' of local students. I don't suppose they let their studies get in the way of practising this elaborate little routine.

They were quite impressive. I hope the vid below works.

Right: At the far southern end of the compound is the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. As mentioned previously, despite his somewhat 'robust' dictatorship, he is still credited with, and respected for,  laying the groundwork of the impressive modern Taiwan success story.

Left: When I visited they were celebrating the 2023 Taiwan Reading Festival. I don't think that had anything to do with the well-known eponymous and somewhat grotty town in Berkshire (UK).

Right: Looking back north from the Memorial building. There were long rows of little tents. Each was demonstrating some aspect of the pleasures and art of reading and writing. Actually, there were a few advertising some other things and a couple of first-aid tents. The Theatre building far left and the Concert Hall far right.

Left: An example of one of the tents. This one advertising 'Taitung's Melodious Reading Voice'. I listened, but was none the wiser.

Right: Another view of the impressive Memorial Hall. Square in front. Tents lined up behind. This square and compound are frequently used for displays and celebrations of all kinds. The Reading Festival had disappeared the next day.

Left: At the west side of the Hall, at ground level, a small circus was taking place. The clown was performing for the children. He was scooping up enormous soap bubbles and, much to their shrieking amusement, covering the child 'victims' with them. They loved it!

Right: The surrounding area within the compound contained a pretty park with picnic areas and this lake with a handsome bridge. The lake was teeming with carp. An egret is in the foreground.

Left: Inside the Memorial Hall. The vast bronze statue of Chiang Kai-shek sits in state at the back. There were two 'guards' flanking him standing on rostrums at either side of the red carpet.

I watched them for a several minutes. They never moved a muscle. I never even saw them breathe, swallow, or move a finger. I was convinced they must be wax dummies. Why not!

After a while I saw one blink! They were real!... and they stand utterly motionless like this for an hour. Incredible self-discipline! I couldn't resist taking a 'selfie'. I mean how can anyone not so much as give a sniff or a small yawn for an hour?

On the hour, every hour, they perform a 'Changing of the Guard' ceremony (I bet those sentries look forward to it). It is obviously a popular event as when I got back into the hall at 3.55pm it was already packed with spectators behind the ropes. I had to barge in to get near the front to get a view. Being polite Taiwanese they excused my rude barging (silly doddery old tourist they probably thought...correctly) and let me through uncomplainingly.

The complex drill involved in this ceremony was extraordinary. It was elaborate and immaculately performed. In the British Army our Foot Guards 'on parade' perform brilliantly, but not on the scale of intricacy that I witnessed here. The 'rifle drill' ( it's called 'pokey drill' in the British army) was amazing and how they didn't drop a rifle beggars belief! Perhaps they do on occasion, but they didn't here. I attach a couple of vids below which I hope you can click on to open.

Right: The old guard marching off. 

Left: Another shot of the entrance arches looking north.

There was a stage set up at the bottom of the steps to the hall with various on-going performances during the day; some very amusing ones which involved the children. One I witnessed had a young boy seated on a chair while an 'actor' pumped his left arm and somehow, magically, beer appeared to spout copiously out of his right ear into a bucket. Right: A very professional saxophone group performing.

I mentioned previously that for first few days of my stay in Taipei the weather was drizzly and wet, which is not conducive to good 'touristing'! Many of the pavements around town have a very smooth marble-like surface. As such, and maybe my shoes are partly to blame, they were incredibly slippery; like walking on ice. I nearly went 'arse over tit' on several occasions. I took to walking (probably illegally) in the road. I survived unscathed, just. So far! As I write this belated post the weather is now warm with blue skies, and it gets hotter down south.......but I've still got more to report from this delightful city. So much to see and do!