HOT SPRINGS IN GUANZILING

 10th - 12th Dec 2023

Fire and water. Guanziling.

I took the train (local) from Tainan to Xinying, about 30 mins north-east, and then a bus a further 30 mins north-east to the town of Baihe. The 'info desk' at Tainan had given me the times, designations and numbers of the train and buses for my whole trip, including to Guanziling, a small town in the hills of what is known as Siraya National Scenic Area, which was the focus of my journey . They were all spot on and worked like clockwork. So efficient!

I had booked into a small hotel called, curiously, 'Third Great Uncle's House'! It was supposed to be in Baihe but was actually on a farm area about 2 miles north. On arrival at the bus station in Baihe I asked how to get there, showing them the details from my trusty notebook. They helpfully put me on a small mini-bus (gratis!) and it dropped me off in a group of houses near the hotel. With help from some locals I was directed to walk about half a mile further on up the road to find this middle-of-nowhere hotel. On arrival I was graciously welcomed and given a very comfortable room with all mod-cons. I then discovered, to my dismay, that I had lost my little pocket notebook. I can't think where. Shit! It held some important info. About ten minutes later a man working at the hotel called me and said that he had received a message from the bus station to say that they had found my notebook. Incredible! How had they known where to find me? This chap then drove me back to the bus station and I was duly handed my notebook. This helpful hotel driver, whose name I subsequently discovered is Akira, proved to be the most incredibly kind and generous person and drove me to Baihe, totally free of charge, even though I offered to pay, on any occasion. It is an example of how the Taiwanese appear to get great pleasure out of helping people, especially confused and ignorant tourists like me.

Akira offered to take me to show me an interest of his; namely the production of Lotus Root Powder. How could I refuse. After a very good Chinese breakfast (with good hot coffee) the following morning he took me, we went on bicyles, to a place, in the surrounding estate, where they made it. It involves much hard labour. Left: There were 18 ladies, and a digger driver, working in a field uprooting the lotus plant roots. They start work at 5.30am.

The lotus roots, long fat sausage-like things, are stripped, cleaned and mashed up in a small local factory. One of the workers here, I discovered, was from Hanoi, Vietnam. I spoke to him as I can speak a little Vietnamese, and he told me that they do have immigrant workers in Taiwan, and they work very hard!

Left: The machinery in the small rural factory looked very basic and I'm sure would have failed every conceivable UK 'Elf 'n Safety' regulation. I was told they produced 20,000kg of the ground powder every day.

Right: The raw powder is taken to a large yard where it is scraped from containers and spread out on trays to be dried. I was given the job of doing a bit of minor scraping.

The finished product is packaged and supplied to pharmacies and supermarkets. What does it do?, I hear you ask. Well, Akira told me that taken (diluted) regularly it ensures you live forever free from any known ailment. A good sales pitch! I was persuaded to eat a couple of mouthfuls. It didn't taste of anything much. Left: Feeling stronger already!

Being so far out in the fields, I was lent a bicycle (right). They had several for use by the guests. It had a very good bell. I used it on a couple of occasions; firstly to follow Akira around the Lotus fields and factory and on another occasion to pedal the 2 miles into Baihe, where I got completely lost.

Early the following day I was given a lift by the trusty Akira into town to catch the Yellow 13 bus up into the hills to the east, to the small town of Guanziling.

Left: Some of the hills. It was rather a hazy day. There were some serious hairpin bends on the way up.

The volcanic area around Guanziling (Taiwan is a volcanic country known for the occasional earthquake) has many hot springs. The town is in two parts, the 'upper', and about 400ft below on a river, the 'lower' bit. There is an excellent Tourist Information Centre which gave me some useful maps and directions. Right: A little man and his dog outside the Information Centre, built out of old scrap metal.

I had to take a taxi (my bête noire normally) to the place I was interested in seeing. It was about 5 miles further uphill out of town. As it happened the taxi driver was charming and we negotiated a price of NT$200 (£5) for the round trip and he would wait for me at the site. Left: This little cavern, ot 'grotto' as it was labelled, was rather smaller than I had been led to believe (the adverts described it as a cave), but interesting all the same. It constantly emitted water and fire. They say fire and water don't mix, but they did here. I hope it wasn't just a hoax, played for the tourists, and they turn off the calor gas cylinders when the visitors have all left! I am the eternal cynic. There were also several good viewing points over the mountains, but it was a very hazy so no good photos, plus a decent café. 

Back down to town and I enjoyed an excellent cup of coffee at the Information Centre, meticulously prepared by this pretty lady.

Then a spot of lunch at a decent restaurant which had an interesting menu (left). It included Sesame Oil Bird Testicles and Garlic Hornet Pupae (if you click on to the pic you may be able to read it, 6th and 7th down). I might suggest these items to my local eatery at home. I chose the Wild Snails, and a bottle of local lager.

Right: The snails were, actually, surprisingly good. We appear somewhat behind the times in UK for more 'interesting' dishes. I'm sure the wobbly obese Brits would benefit from this diet. Could they be persuaded to go for a 'Big Mac Bird Testicles and Fries'? 

After lunch I decided to go for a bit of excercise by following the 'round the town' walking tour. Left: The map (click on to enlarge). I set off from the Information Centre (top centre of map) in a clockwise direction. It started by taking you a few hundred feet down, through the trees to the river, on a stone stairway. The steps of this stairway were tiny, only about 6" high, and it was quite difficult to avoid tripping up.

Right: On reaching the bottom there was an outlet from a hot spring. There are several of these and some of the hot water is piped off to fill pools in which people could 'bathe', and for heating systems. 'Hot springing' is de rigeur here, I was told (not by me). The water as it emerges is at about 85ºc and is a light grey colour, not mud, but due to a heavy content of alkaline minerals. It is supposedly very 'therapeutic'. 

Left: The waterways around the lower town all have the same grey colouration. There were establisments advertising 'therapeutic hot-spring bathing'. I resisted the temptation.

There is a well marked wooden planked pathway to follow. Along part of which were these characters (right). I also passed a shopfront which advertised a 'One Stop Buddhist Funeral Service. Also Caters for Taoists. Open 24hrs'. It has a website!

Left: The start of the way back up. Up the tower and across the gangway......

Right: .......to a very steep stone stairway known as 'Hero Slope'. This was built by the Japanese and was used as an excercise facility for recuperating Jap soldiers. There are 249 large steps. Anyone reaching the top was declared a 'hero'. It nearly killed me. This takes you back to behind the Information Centre.

The 'walk' took me about an hour and I was sweating a bit!

After that is was bus back to Baihe where, on arrival, I asked the chap at the desk to call Akira (he told me to do this) and 15 minutes later he arrived to take me back to the hotel. What a star!

Left: The redoubtable Akira and the charming lady who seemed to run the hotel. They were delightful hosts and, thanks to them and the excellent hotel facilities, I had a most enjoyable two night stay. Thoroughly recommended!

The next day it was back again into Baihe, bus to the railway station at Xinying and then onwards further south to my next port of call........

PS. I have done some research on the subject of 7-Eleven and Family Mart shops, which I commented on previously as being more than abundant in Taiwanese cities, especially Taipei (sometimes two on one street). They are fantastic small shops, especially the 7-Eleven ones. They not only serve a great variety of drink, food, electrics, pharmacuticals etc., but act as mini-travel agents, places to get travel cards, ATMs, and several other local financial services, plus loos, and are open 24hrs a day! 

7-Eleven is an American (Texas) based organisation. Family Marts is based in Japan. In 2021 there were 78,029 7-Elevens and 24,941 Family Marts worldwide. 

Taiwan has, in 2023, no less than 4,164 Family Marts and a staggering 6,712 7-Elevens. Incredible! I bet you are interested.