BY TRAIN TO UKRAINE

4th - 6th May 2022

Outside Kyiv Main Station

The next two nights in Warsaw I spent at one of those self-contained 'apartments' which offered all sorts of unnecessary 'facilities' such as cooker, microwave, washing machine etc., but was rather unsatisfactory for a several reasons. It was hidden away and difficult to find, you had to fight your way in using codes, which didn't always work, for entry and a key press, there were no complimentary things such as coffee or milk (you had to buy any of these), there was no bedside light and, for the life of me, I couldn't get the TV to work. Not least, if you had a problem or query, there was nobody on site and no easy way to directly contact the people who ran the damned place. OK, it was clean and functional and the Internet worked OK. Accommodation by remote control is not for me. It was also no cheaper than the pleasant stay I had at the Polonia Palace!

I paid a visit to the Ukrainian Consulate, a longish trip by 'free' Metro to the south of the city (the Embassy was useless). When I got there I met a large crowd and endless queue ouside the Consulate gates (left). The queue went off to left of this pic. I thought this was going to be a wasted trip. They were all Ukrainian refugees who, as it transpired, were seeking to extend visas or get passports for their children. They queued for hours just to be given a 'number' to come back at some point to get an appointment. Some of them had been at it for several days, I was told. I felt rather sorry for them. There were some tents to the right of the photo, one of which was dishing out free coffee and food. To show my 'solidarity' I helped myself to a cup of coffee. I found another tent 'for advice' in which, by pure chance and good fortune, there was a charming young Polish guy who spoke perfect English (he had lived most of his life in Denmark) and was the fount of all knowledge. I was intending to go to Kyiv and needed advice on what to do and what documents I needed. He gave me the low-down, after checking with someone by telephone which, as it turned out, was very simple. I just needed my UK passport and to book a train ticket by one of two two possible routes; direct or via the border town of Chelm (pronounced as if you were clearing your throat...Hgggelm). I have found Polish names and their pronunciation remarkably difficult.

I went to the smart 'chic' and modern Central Station (right) to book a ticket. I was told all the direct trains to Kyiv were fully booked up until the 10th May. There must be a lot of Ukrainians returning to the city. Instead I was advised to book a train seat/berth to the border town of Chelm (pronounced Hgggelm) and connect with the overnight sleeper from there to Kyiv arriving at 7.25am the following morning.  Which I did for the following day (5th). The whole trip cost the magnificent sum of £33. Another bargain!

This trip could all go horrendously 'tits up' due to 'unforeseen circumstances' but nothing ventured nothing gained. Orf we jolly well go.

The train left at 12.07, on the dot. Very useful platform information told you where to stand to get onto the correct carriage. It was a smart and comfortable train which stopped at various stations en-route, as per left. Click-on to enlarge to read if you're interested.

It was a smooth 3½ hour journey to the south-east. As per the Baltic countries the countyside was pancake flat. I'm not sure if they have anything resembling a hill in Poland? (my 'research team' will probably tell me). I think I may have noticed a small undulation somewhere about half-way. The landscape was mainly forest interspersed with open agriculture and a few small hamlets of neat little detached houses. Good tank-fighting country! There were a couple of stops at larger towns (Deblin and Lublin Glówny). On arrival at Chelm (15.35) the sleeper to Kyiv was waiting on the adjacent platform. It was a very long train and pretty full up. Families returning? After a cursory passport check on boarding I found my way to my 4 berth compartment. It was fairly rudimentary but clean and functional. I was due to share this with a couple of Ukrainans, neither of whom spoke any English. One of them, a fairly elderly (and friendly) gent, persisted in talking to me in Ukrainian and wouldn't stop even when I waived my hands in incomprehension. He even phoned his son in Kyiv so the son, who I think was a student doctor, could talk to me in English. I couldn't understand him either but he rabbited on regardless. The other guy was more silent, for the time being. I had brought some rations, including beer, with me (I don't think there was a 'refreshment' supply on board and passing from carriage to carriage was a real obstacle course through many doors and over dodgy looking moving metal floor connections). Anyway, the old Ukrainian had brought his supplies and we shared some of my beer. If only he would have stopped talking at me and failing to understand that I couldn't understand a word he said he might have been good company. 

The train departed at 16.15 and then stopped at the Polish border about 20 minutes later. Polish Border Control then came through the train to check and stamp passports. As there were only about four of them to do this it took about 1½ hours. Onwards for another 20 minutes, and stopped again for the same routine with the Ukrainian team. They took our passports away to be checked. They were stamped and returned, without any questions or further document requirements, after another 2 hours.

It was, by now, about 8.30pm. It was getting dark and a guard came around all the carriages and corridors and closed blackout blinds over all the windows. There were no lights in the compartment anyway, but there was a dim light in the corridor, so we kept the door open.

I expect this 'guard' could become reminiscent of 'Hodges' in Dad's Army..."put out that light". I expect it was meant to keep us safe from night-time Ruskie bombers.

It was a stop-start journey. The train pulled to halt frequently for 10 to 15 minutes. Maybe it was, in parts, a single track line and another oncoming train had to pass by. Who knows, but it was slow going.

At about 10.00pm we decided to lower the bunks and turn in. Sheets and pillows were provided and we made our beds. I was on a bottom bunk, the old guy on an upper one and the other chap on the opposite lower one. I think I went to sleep at about 10.15pm. I woke up at 10.30pm to the sound of the most horrendous snoring from the other bottom bunk. I thought I was good at snoring but this bloke must have won Gold Medals and set world records in the 'volume, pitch and variation' category. It sounded like a demented starving pig at feeding time. I snatched the odd bit of shut-eye. On waking again (after several times) at about midnight I noticed that the old chap on the upper bunk had disappeared. Had he done a runner due to the apocalyptic ear-shattering snoring? Where could he go? Had he jumped overboard? I never saw him again. Not much kip that night and when the guard came round to tell us that we were due to arrive in 30 minutes, I was already up. The 'snorer', who had obviously, and obliviously, had a great, if vociferous, night's sleep, asked (I think) if he had been snoring! There was no polite answer to that even if I could. I wish I'd packed my ear defenders.

We had arrived at Kyiv main station on time (as scheduled) at 07.25. They are an hour ahead of Poland, and therefore 2 hours ahead of UK. I don't know what the distance is from Chelm (my research team will tell me) and I don't know what route we took, but it was not a fast train and was somewhat rocky and rolly. Not up to Polish standards, but we got here in one piece....if, in my case, a bit short on sleep!

On arrival at the platform we were again asked to show our passports to a group of well-armed police. I showed them mine and was asked "are you here to provide aid or are you a journalist?" I said "No, I am a tourist". This was greeted with a laugh and a round of applause! Plus a great "welcome to Kyiv". I've never experienced that before.

Right: Outside the main entrance to Kyiv railway station in gloriously sunny weather. Now onwards by Metro (underground) to my hotel, the 'Hotel Rus', which is near the Olympic Park and where I stayed 4 years ago. The area outside the station was thick with groups of armed police, some of whom were rather pretty ladies. I have learnt from previous indiscretions that it is not wise to photograph them.

The Metro here is now ticketless and free and, I am told, the deepest underground transport system in the world (useful protection against bombs and was probably built as such). 

As I finish writing this I have been here for 2 days so have a bit of catching up to do.