Saturday 14 May 2022

ENCORE AND FAREWELL KYIV

 11th - 12th May 2022

The Ukraine Coat of Arms

The Ukraine coat of arms, the 'trizub' (trident) dates back to Volodymyr the Great in the 10th century. 

One of the sights I remember from my previous visit in 2018, is the standard of the young female Kyiv citizens. Without exception (that I noticed) the young ladies here under the age of 30, say, are all trim, slim, well groomed, well dressed and very attractive. There are absolutely no fat wobbly kangarillapigs that one frequently  encounters overflowing seats and blocking the pavements in UK and perhaps other European cities. Is it their genes, breeding, diet? I have no idea, but it is very noticeable. The young blokes now tend to adopt the Zelensky look-alike scruffy beard.

Don't get the wrong impression. I have not been lurking around snapping unsuspecting ladies. Just a few shots to give you some idea; all taken with the target's agreement and, in one case, insistence. This lady (left) is setting the couture standard quite high.







Right: A more 'natural' style. 









Left: I admired this lady's dress and she was keen for me to photograph her. They are not shy here! 








It was her friend who insisted (believe me) that we should be photographed together! Not my idea, I can assure you.

Anyway, I hope you get the gist.





I was keen to find an Irish Bar (pronounced Oirish Bear) which as you are aware feature in most cities in all countries....except India, and perhaps China. The idea was to find a Pool table which Irish Bars often possess (as per my recent trip to Bangkok). I needed to brush up my skills before returning home where a few of us 'old gits' gather once a week to demonstrate how useless we are. I found three (bars) of them. O'Brien's (left), on Mykhailivska St. was one. It was firmly closed.
As was O'Connors (right) on Khoryva St in the Podil district. However, while I was down that way I bumped into a most amusing Brit, from Andover, Hampshire, at a coffee shop. I think he was carrying out some 'aid' work or other. Anyway, we had a good chat. He has been working in Ukraine off and on for some years and was most informative. 
The third Irish Bar I tried, called Dockers, off Kreshchatyk St.....was also closed. All very tedious. The 'Oirish' must have done a runner!

I was accosted by two lady reporters from Switzerland. They were prowling the streets with camera and recording equipment. They wanted to record and televise my, or anyone's, views on Putin's address at Red Square on 9th May. Heavens, the last thing I want is to appear on Swiss, or any other, TV! We had a good chat and they were amusing company. I explained that my views, along with even the those of the 'experts' are all pure speculation and guesswork concerning the mad/evil Putin's intentions. They told me that I was the first 'War Tourist' they had met. We parted on good terms.

Left: The Bessarabsky market. This is enclosed in a vast circular domed building on Kruty Usziz, near my hotel to the south of the centre. It has numerous stalls selling all kinds of foodstuffs......







Right:......several of which specialised in caviar. I was given some high-pressure sales pitches to buy it. They kept lowering the price. I resisted, not knowing when or where I would eat the stuff. I am not an expert on caviar!

Another thing which I remember from my previous visit is the lack of street signs, and those they do have are in cyrillic writing which makes it difficult (for me). They have signposts which point towards places of interest, but it is not easy to find out which street you are on, let alone which building number. Having said that, the same problem exists in my home town in UK even with English writing.  .

Left: An interesting shopfront.











Right: Standing in front of the arch and angel staue in the centre of the Maydan. I can't remember what this monument is in aid of, or called.







Left: Another interesting venue....and there are a few of these. 









For some reason I actually wandered into St Michael's Monastery cathedral. You are free to do so. There was a service ongoing. It is an extraordinarily ornately decorated interior and there was a team of elaborately cloaked orthodox priests in heavy gold patterned  costume (whatever you call them) with tall crown-like hats swinging those incense balls on chains to a background (recorded?) of a loud holy choir. There were several 'congregants' standing with heads bowed (females heads covered) in reverance. I hope they were all enjoying themselves. Whatever turns you on I suppose. I had to be rather discreet with my photography, hence a rather blurred image which didn't include the incense waving priests.

Left: At the other end of the scale...!











Right: Sandbagged monuments, of which there are many, in front of St Sophia's Cathedral. Have to look back at my 2018 blog to see what they are. They have been taking good care of their monuments...so far, and hopefully forever, unscathed.










Left: An amusing title for a craft beer emporium. The Ukrainians have a good sense of humour.









Right: They take their boxing seriously. The Klitschko brothers are recent champions. One of them is now the mayor of Kyiv. I can't remember which; Wladimir, or Vasiliy?








Left: Another noticeboard on the grass by the Independence Monument.














Right: A slight military setback in the city. 










I did ask what are all these camouflage dressed groups of soldiers were who are abundant in the city and what organisation they belonged to. Mostly they were unarmed. I was told they are 'reservists', or the equivalent of our WW2 Home Guard. I was on the lookout for Capt Mainwaring, Sgt Wilson and Cpl Jones or their equivalent. I think, hope, they are a bit more serious than that!

I have many more photos, but these and previous will have to do. That more or less concludes my week's visit to Kyiv. I found it most interesting and, despite the many air-raid warnings (with no bangs to follow them up), a very pleasant and not in the least bit concerning holiday. The glorious weather helped. OK, many museums and other venues were closed, but that was due to lack of tourist custom and staff not threat of attack. In some selfish way I wish I had some more 'warry' stories to tell and dramatic scary events to describe, but that just wasn't the case. The locals are all taking this situation in their stride and are most certainly not cowering away from a normal existance. Many are returning to Kyiv from 'refugeeship'. They are a resilient, very good natured people and thoroughly European in their outlook. It was a very different situation a few weeks ago, I admit, when the city was seriously threatened. The situation to the east and south still looks grim, but I hope and believe that the worst is over for Kyiv and most of the country to the west. I was told by some that I was mad to risk coming here, but I'm glad that I did. I will tell them on my return, "if you don't believe me that Kyiv is fine and safe and welcoming then go and see for yourself". They won't of course. The media hype sees to that. Just make sure you find a sleeper compartment from Warsaw without an ear-piercing snorer in the adjacent bunk!

So, bye-bye from lovely Kyiv and I'm about to return to Warsaw on another 'sleeper' and thence maybe elsewhere. I've got some cotton wool to put in my ears just in case. I expect I will report back on that.

PS. As I mentioned at the beginning, if you are interested in a more detailed report on the attractions and sites of interest in this city then go to my blogs of June 2018. 

до побачення і удачі

PPS. While writing this I was half watching the Eurovision Song Contest. Gosh, that goes on for a long time. I thought the songs were mostly rubbish, just lots of 'effects' and screaming ninnies. It didn't finish until about 1.00am local time! The only part I find entertaining is the 'tactical' voting.  Surprise surprise, Ukraine won! The bookies' odds were not that great but I hope the Ukrainians are happy. Sadly for them, of course, they have to host the damned thing next year. There's always a dark lining in any silver cloud.

PPPS. I have just been sent this photo from a reader. He took the one on the left,  in Newham, East London, where he lives, together with one of mine from Kyiv on the right. Both taken recently. I have no doubt that Kyiv is the better, more civilised and probably safer, place to be!












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