RETURN TO WARSAW

2nd - 3rd May 2022

Polonia Palace Hotel. Jerozolimskie St. Warsaw.

Back to a sunny Warsaw after my previous brief visit to a dismal rainy Warsaw on returning from the Baltics in November 2016. This time I flew, courtesy of BA (£98 one way) from London Heathrow to Warsaw, Frederic Chopin, airport. 

Having 'checked in' on-line there was absolutely no hassle at LHR Terminal 5. Apart from presenting my passport on boarding and at the passport control at Warsaw, no additional documents or checks were required. How refreshing! As always, because I often suffer from 'travel fever', I arrived at LHR T5 with far too much time to spare and it was very busy. The cafés in 'departures' were packed. I therefore paid to spend a happy couple of hours in the relative tranquility of the Plaza Lounge, reading my newspaper, making the most of the help-yourself drink and food, using the WiFi and comfortable seating available (£30, and I definitely got my money's worth). It is interesting to note how there are now very few 'maskies' (or 'TIMs', Tw@ts In Masks, as I rudely call them) at the airport or on the flight. They are certainly not compulsory anywhere, thankfully. Of the very few that still persist I wonder if they don't feel they look faintly ridiculous. Anyway, I suppose that is their problem. 

As a tip to the unwary, things always to be avoided at LHR (and probably other UK airports) are the 'Currency Exchange' bureaux, normally manned by Indians for some reason. The 'official' rate of exchange for Polish Zloti to £ Sterling is 5.6 to 1. These bandits were offering 4.1 to 1. Outrageous scam! On arrival at Warsaw airport I used my Monzo credit card (they are good, no service charge) at an ATM to withdraw Zloti at 5.2 to 1. Not bad.

Warsaw Chopin airport is, unlike the chaotic disjointed maze at LHR, clean, efficient and user friendly. Quickly through an 'unofficious' passport control, via the ATM and out to the connected rail service to centre of Town. They have a most user-friendly public transport system in this city. You buy a ticket which is charged per 'time for use'; either  20, 75 or 90 minutes use, or 24 or 72 hrs, or a weekend pass. These tickets are valid on the train, Metro, bus and tram (see left) My 75 minute ticket cost 4.40 Zloti (80p). The train journey to the Central Station took 25 minutes and then a 5 minute walk to my hotel. 

It may have just been the sunny weather but my initial impression was that Warsaw had much improved in looks and ambience since my last visit. Clean streets, impressive modern buildings in the 'new' town and all the people I met were amazingly polite, helpful and, fot the most part, well dressed and attractive. I had booked in to the Polonia Palace Hotel, on Jerozolimskie Street, as it was offered as a great 'deal' on Expedia. And it was a good deal. It is a very comfortable upmarket  and well situated hotel, much above the standard that I normally use, for £40 per night. I had only booked in for one night as I had found a cheaper option thereafter. Maybe I will regret it. I had arrived at the hotel at 7.30pm (1 hr ahead of UK) and after a decent supper in the hotel, while watching the final of the Snooker Championships, followed by a couple of nightcaps, it was off to a comfortable bed. 

Left: The expansive and elegant reception area at the Polonia Palace. The staff were very charming and helpful. It had a good bar and restaurant and with very reasonable prices. It also advertised a gym and sauna which, needless to say, I avoided.

The following day was, and I hadn't realised it, a National Holiday, the Polish 'Constitution Day'. As such most shops and establishments were closed. I decided to take a trip by tram to the Old Town. Before that I had called in to the very elegant Tourist Information Office near the Central Railway Station (right) for some travel advice. The building in the background is the Palace of Culture & Science, a Soviet Union construct and , at 231m high, is still, I think, the tallest building in Poland (I have just been informed by my 'research team' that the new Varso building nearby is taller). It has an observation terrace on the 30th floor. I have yet to go up there. I must do, but haven't the time right now. The last time I was here it was in cloud. 

I was given a very useful city transport map covering all the tram, bus and Metro routes. I was also informed that if you are over 70 all travel on these is free! I tried it and it worked. Damn! I wasted 80p on my metro-train from the airport. I subsequently travelled all over town using the excellent trams and Metro and all for diddly-squat. Eat yer heart out robber Sadiq Khan! So why is transport in London so outragiously expensive!

I spent a sunny afternoon in the Old Town. I covered most of the sights here in detail in my Nov 2016 edition, so won't do so again. In fact the area today was humming with happy 'off-duty' Poles and quite a few foreigners. It was all ice-cream, candy-floss, beer and music. Very jolly. 

Left: The throng in the square by the Sigismund 111 Vasa Column.

Right: The (rebuilt) Royal Castle, closed for the day. As you may be aware, this city was bombed flat by the Germans in WW2 and nearly all of the buildings and surrounding walls have since been painstakingly reconstructed.

A quick photo-flash with some views on the day, in no particular order.

Left: One of many posing 'things' which kept children amused. They hugged it, but not in my presence.

It wouldn't be complete without a Hairy Krishna performance (Right). Bong Bong ching ching 'Harry Krishna', and a lot of locals joined in. Not me.

The Old Town Square. It may not look busy but the bars and restaurants surrounding it were packed, and with musicians (saxophones and guitarists) playing by the statue in the middle. This (left) was a saxophonist who was actually rather good.

Right: Another 'thing' to 'amuse' the children. It kept moving around and, I think, scared most of them off.

Left: A full bloom of balloons. 

Right: A rather peculiar statuette on one of the outer walls of a child holding a rifle. I hadn't noticed this before. Not sure what it represents. A 'youth defending the city' perhaps.

Left: A view down one of the (reconstructed) outer walls.

Right: One of the busy restaurants around the Old Town Square.

Left: An old organ grinder grinding his stuff. It was actually quite tuneful. I made a video with sound but can't seem to download it, yet. I gave him a few Zloti and 75p in loose change for his efforts.

Right: This looks like one one the Muppet hecklers (Waldorf or Stattler) left on the windowsill of one of the pubs.

Left: Another musical entertainment. These two ladies sang and played very harmoniously, and did so for most of the afternoon. Impressive. Again, I video recorded it but can't yet download. I gave them my remaining 45p and 5 Euros. Generous me!

Right: One of several 'horses and carts' which took people for a clop around the area.

Left: A bloke planted doves on unsuspecting people, with children. They , the targets, were amused and, presumably, the 'planter' expected a reward. I assume the birds could not fly and were happy with this? They looked well fed and heathy. So did the family.

Right: Me, having had a 'meal' of beetroot soup and dumplings plus beer. An interesting concoction and probably the last time I'll try it. The waiter told me his daughter worked in Southampton and was, again, amongst the other locals, a very amusing chap.

Left: A view from the Old Town wall to the east over the River Vistula. The whole area looked well tended and cared for. 

Right: One of the many trams. They are a great way to get around the city and, in my geriatric case, free! I think they make most of our (UK) city transport look pathetic in comparison.

I'm planning an ongoing route which may, or may not, succeed. Maybe back to Warsaw afterwards. This place is, in my opinion, one of the nicest places with the nicest people. I can think of a few others equally of course.

Stand by for more........Travellin' Uncle Matt is at it again!