TÄLLBERG

 1st - 3rd Sept 2020

View over Lake Siljan

There were two train changes (on time) from Uppsala to Tällberg, at Gävle and Borlänge. Departure 9.00am and arrived Tällberg at 1.30pm. It was a pleasant enough journey through flat countryside with scenery of trees, and more trees, with the occasional lake. It is a about 200km north-west of Uppsala.

I was informed that the train stopped at the (unmanned) station in Tällberg, which it did, but was not aware that Tällberg is a 'village' spread out over a large area. There was a 2km walk, towing suitcase, from station to the so-called centre where I had booked in at the Åkerblads Hotel. Good excercise I suppose.

Left: The Lake Siljan region. Tällberg east end, Mora at the north end. The lake is about 40km long (I will try to stick to 'km' rather than 'miles' 'cos that is the data I was given). This is in the 'county' of Dalarna. An interesting area within a large surrounding 'rim' with the lake at its centre, caused by a 52km diameter meteor impact, the largest in Europe, 377 million years ago. Bet that shook up a few nesting dinosaurs.

The Åkerblads is a lovely hotel. Right: My bedroom which had a sitting-room attached. Are you interested? Anyway it was very comfortable and not unfeasably expensive, even though more than I would normally have paid.

Left: It had a spa with swimming pool of which I made no use, plus a Pool table on which I had a little practice.

Right: Plus a very smart restaurant, both inside and outside. That was seriously expensive. I lived on the supplies I had bought in a supermarket in Uppsala! Mean as muck, and I am not a 'foody'. Picnic supper in sitting-room.

PS. I have a greedy and economic habit of nicking stuff from the buffet breakfast (price included) and stashing it away for future use throughout the day. It does me fine.

The Tällberg area is obviously a countryside getaway for the well-heeled. It is a beautiful forested area with many holiday chalets spaced out over a large area near the lake. There are no groceries (OK, one supermarket near the railway station) or bars/pubs but several very upmarket hotels. The nearest Systembolaget oasis (ie affordable booze supply) is in Rätttvik, the neighbouring town. It is the sort of place for a romantic weekend with lots of lovely walks. The lakeside itself has boats and a 'glamping' area. It invites swimming, if you are prepared to freeze your bollocks off in the arctic temperature water which presumably the hardy Swedes enjoy, but I certainly don't.

Left: Boats on the lake.

One point of interest around this area was the total lack of birds, other than magpies. Not even seagulls etc. Lots of magpies but little else. Maybe the dreaded magpie is responsible for this as they eat eggs from nests. Rather a pity.

Right: A typical holiday home. They are all well spaced out for privacy and these two buildings are both part of one property. It was interesting to note that all the houses or chalets are painted the same red colour. This is historical and partly due to that meteorite which threw up a lot of minerals and ore; a lot of it consisting of stuff (copper and iron?) which they used to make red paint. The tradition has continued. Like the old Ford Model-T car, it came in any colour provided it was black.

Left: One of the swanky hotels, Green Hotel, which sits on some high ground overlooking the lake.

Right: I dropped in here for a refreshing beer. Great views over the lake.

Left: The female staff in all the hotels wore this rather attractive style of national dress (in different colours). They were all so cheerful, charming, helpful and polite. I found it most impressive. 

Right: The Dala Horse (Dalahäst). I was just about to discover them. They are ubiquitous in this part of the world. They originated centuries ago, from this area, with the pastime of carving wood and the horse was considered a natural subject. They are now considered as a favourite souvenir of Sweden. More about them to follow.

My short visit to Tällberg was a pleasant diversion but, for a solo traveller, not exactly inspiring and, apart from wandering around admiring the views, not a lot to do. It caters for those who wish to 'get away from it all' and enjoy a relaxing time in tranquil, pleasant and picturesque surroundings. Not exactly, indeed almost the exact opposite, from the debauched Pat Pong or Pattaya settings in Thailand!

On tomorrow by train around the lake to Mora, the most notable town in the area. Must remember to swipe a good supply of rations from the excellent breakfast buffet.

UPPSALA

Aug 31st - Sept 1st 2020

Stockholm Central Station.
 

The Central Railway station is modern, efficient and connects the rail system to the Metro (tunelbana). Several floors are underground and all well signposted. The statue outside is of Nils Ericsson, the engineer who developed the rail and canal systems. Not to be confused with Lars Ericsson the 19th century founder of the telephones organisation. 

Anyway, onwards by train to Uppsala, a city about 80km north of Stockholm.

Below: The interior of the double-decker train I took. The rail prices were comparatively cheap, £6 equivalent to Uppsala (about the only things in this country which are) and comfortable with lots of luggage room, tables and an excellent quick and free internet service.

This new crappy new Google Blogger system does not seemingly allow me to  write down the side of photos, so can only 'head or tail' them, therefore much space wasted. Hey ho!

Below: A cunning device which allows a wheelchair or wonky person to board the train and, by pushing a button, elevate the platform to get up the stairs, then rotate to wheel or stagger off. Very clever.

I think I have, by accident, just discovered how to write down the side of a photo. I doubt I will be able to replicate so making the most of it here.

It was a comfortable 40 min journey up north to Uppsala. The countryside is flat and densely forested. 

Below: The railway station at Uppsala. Another smart and shiny station.

Uppsala is a university city (40,000 students). It was/is considered the historical and spiritual heart of the country. It is a jolly city with lots of bars, restaurants and hotels;  presumably to cater for the licentious studentry. Actually, although the schools are all fully operational, university students are at present at home studying, or not, on the internet. It is divided north/south by the river Fyris. Laid out in a grid pattern it is easy to navigate and most things of interest are within easy walking distance. As with everywhere in this country this place is immaculately clean and tidy. I stayed the night at the CityStay Hotel which is central, comfortable and reasonably priced.

  

The University is one of the oldest and most esteemed in the world. I'm not sure what for; parties? The main university building is quite grand but used mainly for ceremonial occasions, with a few lecture halls, now deserted other than security guards. The city is scattered with outlying 'departments'.

Right: The magnificent entry hall.

On the first floor gallery there are several rather rude statues. I can only enter them in a long list below because this stupid 'new improved' system will not allow me to write alongside. 

Presumably they represent a politically correct 'diverse' theme, albeit very 'white'. They all have remarkably small willies, or perhaps I am blessed, but I don't think so.

Below: The gay boy.

Right: The flasher. Not sure what he is so proud of!

Left: The 'one armed' streaker.

Right: The child abductor

Gosh, I seem to be, on occasions, able to get text on the side, but not sure how I'm doing it.

Nearby is the Carolina Rediviva Bibliotek, the University library and museum. It is a large building with squillions of books (unsurprisingly) and some reading rooms which appeared reasonably well attended (below).........

......together with a museum housing ancient manuscripts and maps including illuminated Ethiopian texts and the first book ever printed in Sweden, which I'm sure is a real bodice-ripper. The star of the show is the Codex Argentus (AD 250) aka the Silver Bible (below) which is written in gold and silver ink on purple vellum. The most complete existing document written in the Gothic language (in which I am not entirely fluent).

Below: The Gothic Cathedral, Domkyrka, which dominates the city. Apparently it is Scandinavia's largest church. It is 119m (390 ft)  high.

As mentioned, I'm not really 'into' these grandiose and opulent houses of worship, but went in to have a look anyway. (at least it was free entry and beginning to rain!) 

No effort or expense was spared here. There are lots of little 'chapels' running down both sides dedicated to such luminaries as Gustav Vasa (the first King and after whom the ill-fated warship was named), and Carl von Linné (or Linnaeus) an eminent 18th century Uppsala biologist, zoologist, physician and, for all I know, record breaking pole-vaulter. His name features widely around this city.

Above: It certainly has an impressive 'pulpit" from which, no doubt, the God-fearing congregation were suitably damned for their sins.

There is, what looked like, an interesting place opposite; the Gustavian Museum, which advertised lots of weird and wonderful exhibits ie. stuffed animals and ancient oddities, including the 'anatomical theatre' where executed prisoners were dissected.

Unfortunately it was closed for renovations.

Then on to Uppsala Slott, the Castle, which sits on high ground overlooking the city. Another remnant of Gustav Vasa's reign in the 16th century. It burnt down in 1702, but rebuilt. It supposedly houses the State Rooms, but now is just offices and the main part closed to tourists (at least while I was here).

There are turrets at either end, and this is the back view. (I've accidently done it again and got text down the side!). Too long to get it all in one shot. One of the turrets is open to the public and houses a 'conceptual art' gallery on 4 floors. Again, free admission........

.....with some rather weird 'artworks', such as this portryal of 'Hell'..........

.......plus other strange exhibits with little information of what they represented.

Right: A gorilla in fishnet stockings?

Below: A rather poor representation of someone sitting on the window-ledge.

Then on through the Linnean Gardens which run down from the front of the castle.  They grow, according to my guide book, 10,000 plant species, and I certainly didn't bother to count them. There is a Tropical Greenhouse to one side (closed, 'cos I got there too late) and what looked like an interesting museum the 'Museum of Evolutions' nearby. Closed on Monday's, which day it was.

Right: The Linnean Gardens. There is a big house at the end, but I couldn't find out what it's purpose was. Maybe where the gardener lives.

It had now started to piss down with rain so back to the centre of town where I found the mandatory Irish Bar to dry off in.......

.......O'Connor's bar where I was served by a charming and very pretty (non-Irish) colleen. She took this photo so that's why she's not in it.

That was my day in Uppsala. Nothing terribly exciting but interesting enough and I got a feel for the place. No students and few tourists so it was all very quiet. I expect it is very different when it's humming. A decent supper and a quiet evening spent.

On by train tomorrow to the town of Tällberg, in the middle of the country, on Lake Siljan. Toot toot!

YET MORE STOCKHOLM

27th - 31st Aug 2020

The City Hall looking north-east from Evert Taubes Terrass.

Left: The little statue of Evert Taubes (1890-1976) on the corner of the terrace on the little islet of Riddarholmen, a bridge across from Gamla Stan. He was a renowned composer, author and singer of the Swedish troubadour variety. There is a free short ferry trip from the Terrass to the City Hall.

I wandered around the City Hall (Stadshuset) and intended to go on a conducted tour inside (I was told it has magnificent interiors), but I got there too late and missed the last tour, and it was closed.

Right: The nearby church of Riddarholmskyrkan. It is where Swedish royals have been entombed since 1290 and home of the armorial Seraphim knightly order. So there!

Left: The grand interior. Quite an impressive pulpit. 

I couldn't figure out where all that Royalty was buried. Under the floorboards presumably.

Right: Storkyrkan cathedral on Gamla Stan. It is Stockholm's cathedral and the one-time venue for Royal Weddings and Coronations. I don't know where they get hitched nowadays; being a very 'modern' monarchy probably in the local Registry Office. I'm not really 'into' churches but these are important landmarks.

Left: The city centre streets were busy. No arsing about with too much anti-social distancing in evidence and not a face-mask in sight. So refreshing!

Right:...and there were some big smart shops. The Åhlens multi-storey shopping centre on Klarabergsgatan was an impressive example. It had a vast array of outlets including, what I came to find out was like an oasis in the desert, a large 'Systembolaget'. More about that later.

Left: There were several street artists performing various acts. Some rather odd, but this little group sang jolly songs.

Now for some real culture. Back to Djurgården island and the ABBA museum.

They may not be to everyone's taste but they were, after all, the third best selling pop group in the 70's and 80's. Only The Beatles and Queen outsold them.

I have a friend who totally derides them but whose favourite 'heavy metal' band of that era, Throbbing Gristle, did not do nearly so well. (and with a name like that...!)

The famous four; L-R Benny, Anni-Frid, Agnetha and Bjorn. Named after their initials, Anni-Frid, Benny, Bjorn and Agnetha...ie. ABBA.

Anni-Frid was married to Benny, and Agnetha to Bjorn.

Their kick-start came when they won the 1974 Eurovision Song Contest with 'Waterloo'.

It is a large and amusing museum (reduced £23 entry for OAPs). It follows the band's fortunes from inception to their later life and has several 'interactive' stations where you can record yourself and play with various gadgets. All their personal histories are laid bare and so I am now an expert on ABBA.

There was a large and formidable team which looked after them including their astute manager, Stig Anderson. They had a marvellous 'sound' man whose name escapes me but famously smoked a pipe and told good jokes, apparently. He operated this sound 'mixer' (left). It looks incredibly complicated.

There were several displays of ABBA costumes. Being a total ignoramus concerning pop groups, I found it interesting to learn of the enormous administrative, logistic and planning effort which goes into organising and producing shows on tour. Very complex and tiring for all concerned.

At great risk of embarrassing myself; ABBA PLUS ONE (below). This went on for much longer and I really got into the swing of it, but they cut filming before I got into my stride.

I took a short ferry ride back to Gamla Stan, passing the little islet of Skeppsholmen where this rather splendid boat was moored.

Right: And got a good rearward view of the Stockholm Fun Fair which, as a potentially crowded venue, was temporarily closed. 

After spending two nights in my 'prison', comfortable though it was, I checked out. It was a longish walk and metro ride to the centre from there. I had found a decent, relatively inexpensive hotel in the city centre and within easy walking distance of the nearest metro (Tunelbana) and the Central Railway Station.

I passed (well stopped in at actually) a bar on the way to the new hotel. Left: The interesting and humorously misleading sign outside. NO cheap, let alone free, beer in this country! The main drawback of Sweden, in general, is the extortionate price of food and drink in bars and restaurants. A small 330ml bottle of beer normally sells at about £6 and a simple main course meal will set you back at least £20. No cheap 'pie 'n chips'.

No supermarkets sell alcohol. Fortunately I discovered the Government controlled 'Systembolaget' stores. They are large smart wine shops were you can actually buy wines, beer and spirits at reasonable prices (vis the one  at Ählens shopping centre, conveniently near my new hotel). They have limited opening hours and close at 2pm on Saturdays until 10am Monday. Useful info!

A bloke was standing outside proudly showing off his pride and joy, a Mustang car (right). I'm not into cars but I know someone who reads this is, so I thought I would mention it. He told me it uses a lot of petrol.

Left: My new accommodation, The Queen's Hotel on Drottninggatan. Very central and conveniently located. The reception staff were incredibly helpful, and rooms comfortable. A good find.

Right: Opposite was the Limerick Bar which was useful. Apart from India I have yet to find a country which does not have a good selection of 'Oirish Bears'. Charming staff in there but no Irish, although one barman was born in Scotland with a Scottish mother. 

That will do for Stockholm for the time being. I am next off 'up country' but will return for a few days to continue to explore this wonderful city. So much more to see, and I won't see half of it.