YET MORE TIRANA. Or TI-RAIN-A

20th Nov 2022

An interesting museum. See further down.

Albania (or Alb'rain'ia as I have come to know it) has an interesting and complicated history. You can read up on it as well as I, but it was, from 1928 - 1939, a monarchy with King Zog (left) at the helm. He had, previously, been Prime Minister and President. From what I can gather he was a fairly decent cove, compared to what came next.

Right: The King and Mrs Zog at their wedding in Tirana. She was an Austro-Hungarian countess. He was forced into exile after the Italians invaded in 1939, initially in London then France. He died in Paris in 1961.

After the hiatus of WW2, the dreadful Enver Hoxha (left) took over as a communist dictator. The country became a police state.

Hence the 'Museum of Secret Surveillance' which displays various aspects of this period with exhibits and old film footage.

I woke on Sunday morning to further rain. It varied throughout the day between pouring down and torrential deluges accompanied by thunder and lightning....with a few short periods of gentle drizzle. So my touristing was going to be limited to, mainly, indoor sports, and a visit to the 'House of Leaves'.

Right: On the wall of the museum, is a statement by Mr Hoxha. It is amazing how many Albanians actually, indeed zealously, supported this approach. Many cheered him (perhaps they got arrested if they didn't). It reminds me a bit of our Government's draconian policy over the 'Covid panicdemic' period and how the public are so easily cowed into a state of subservience and obedience, even to the point of snitching on their neighbours!

Left: Another description of the state of affairs in Albania between 1944 - 85, enforced by Hoxha's State Security Police, the Sigurimi, and the 'Department of the Defence of the People'.

(click on to enlarge).

Right: Further description of the 'system', which must have been unpleasantly 'Orwellian'. 

Left: More verbage, but explains better than I could what life was like. The 'House of Leaves' building was, before it became a Sigurimi HQ and interrogation centre, a medical research facility.

Right: There were several rooms displaying rather ancient, indeed primitive, surveillance equipment in use during this period. Even binoculars! Who would have thought?! One room displayed and described the 'bugs' planted in rooms, telephones, fixtures, fittings and in people's clothing. It was quite interesting but somewhat repetitive and nothing on display was entirely surprising.

Left: What was described as a typical family sitting-room of the 1960s/70s. I think it looks rather comfortable and considerably cleaner and tidier than anywhere in my house.

Old archive film clips were shown of interviews (after the Hoxha period) with people who had undergone interrogation and torture at the hands of the Sigurimi.

Anyway, it was a pleasant way to spend a couple of hours.

Right: Umbrella city. Everbody had umbrellas. Even the scooter riders carried them and I saw a dog with one. Plenty of street vendors were in evidence selling them. I resisted as I am far too mean and had a fairly decent waterproof coat. If I had bought one I would only have lost it at some point. I had one once, which is probably still travelling around the London Underground Circle Line.

Left: I adjourned to the splendid bar/café/museum called the Komiteti Café Museum. It had been recommended to me.

It contains lots of 'objets' and 'memorabilia' around the walls and on shelves, some dating back to the 18th century. There were ancient televisions, radios, ornaments, porcelain dishes and other nicknacks in profusion. It is a very cosy place with several discreet nooks and crannies in which you could sit and a bar at the far end.......

Right:......It also specialised in selling the drink 'raki', which I had not tried before. I believe it is of Turkish origin. They had several  types of the stuff with different flavourings  and I hadn't a clue which to choose, so I just plumped for one. It is made from twice-distilled grapes and very alcoholic (50% proof). You can dilute it with water (it goes cloudy) but I tried it neat. It tasted like a sweet brandy, and rather nice. A glass cost a mere 250 Lek (£1.85p). So I had another. If you are interested and ever passing by, this 'café' is on the corner of Papa Gion Pali and Rruga Fatmir Haxhiu. Recommended!

Another point of interest about this city is that the ladies (as per other Balkan countries, and indeed Ukraine) tend to be slim, attractive, well groomed and well dressed, in stark contrast to many of those on display in UK! There are also many avid smokers. Smoking is permitted inside some (not all) bars and cafés. They are somewhat more 'permissive' here.

Left: The Mosque and clocktower at the south-east corner of Scanderbeg Square. There are several Mosques and a bit of 'calling to prayer' over loudspeakers by the Muezzins, but not too much. I would love to discover where their microphones are.

Right: Of no great interest, perhaps, but this is the late Enver Hoxha's old residence, known as the 'Biloku' on Rruga Ismail Quemali. It is behind locked gates with a guard on duty. Actually, as I have since discovered, I mistakenly took this photo of the back of the place! I never saw the front which is, apparently, quite an impressively fronted villa. I was told it should be open to the public....it probably was at the front.

I haven't finished yet..........

MORE TIRANA

19th Nov 2022

A statue in the Great Park

Left: The Tirana City street plan. Click on to enlarge (if you want to), as per any other pics following. The main square is the grey bit in the centre. My (2nd) hotel, La Voglia, was 200yds down the main street, Ibrahim  Rugova, from the SW corner. The Great Park is at the southern side.

This is Saturday and the rain has stopped, temporarily. I moved hotel. Nothing wrong with the 'Driti but it was a bit of a walk from the centre and I found another called ' La Voglia' (at £30pn = 4,020 Lek; £1 = 134 Lek) which was more conveniently located and very comfortable with charming staff. There are are couple of decent bars and restaurants in the courtyard outside. All most civilised.

I decided to walk down to the Park. What  lovely place. A large hilly forested area and artificial lake with well maintained, if slippery when wet, marble type paths leading in various directions through it. There were several cafés around, locals jogging and others sitting on the park benches enjoying the break in the rain.

I happened to chance upon a couple of cemeteries. Right: This one was for Germans killed in WW2. The gates were locked and I couldn't get in.

Left: Nearby was a beautifully maintained Commonwealth War Graves Commission cemetery for the British. The gates were 'semi -locked'. I got in.

I had no idea what the British forces were up to in Albania in WW2, but this cemetery contained about 50 graves of servicemen from various Regiments (such as the Highland Light Infantry, Somerset Light Infantry, Royal Marines, Royal Artillery, Royal Tank Regiment) as well as several RAF pilots and aircrew.

Right: One in particular stood out. It was that of Brigadier A.E.C.Nicholls GC ERD ex-Coldstream Guards who had been in charge of 'Commands and Staff', whatever that was. He died on 11th February 1944 aged 33 (young Brigadiers in those days!). Click on to enlarge to read.

I happened, by good fortune, to have a poppy with me which I had worn, wherever I was on the Remembrance Sunday, so I planted it as his grave.

A friend of mine (thanks Tony!) did some research and found the story of this heroic soldier's sad and painful demise. I copy it below:

In March 1942 he joined the Special Operations Executive (SOE). In October 1943, by now a temporary lieutenant-colonel, he parachuted into Albania to serve as Staff Officer to Brigadier Edmund Frank "Trotsky" Davies with the task of inciting resistance to the German occupation and tying down enemy forces.

Their Headquarters were attacked by enemy forces in January 1944 and they escaped to the mountains, pursued by the Germans and local militia. Davies was wounded and captured on 8 January 1944. Nicholls led the remains of the party to safety through dreadful winter weather. He suffered severe frostbite during the escape and had to have both his feet amputated, after this he was transported by being dragged on his greatcoat.

Nicholls received medical attention in the city of Tirana, however he died from his wounds on 11 February 1944 at the age of 33, after managing to make a final report on the situation in Albania to British authorities. He was mentioned in despatches on 1 June 1944. He is commemorated in a Commonwealth War Graves Commission cemetery, in the Tirana Park Memorial Cemetery.

Left: The inscription plaques at the Cemetery. Someone had thoughtfully placed a beautiful wreath there. There isn't, as far as I gathered, a British Embassy in Tirana so it must have been done by proxy. I wasn't carrying one of those with me! 

I took photos of several of the other gravestones but won't bore you with those. Suffice to say that I was impressed.

I spent a couple of hours wandering around the park. I was actually trying to find the 'Presidential Palace' which was marked on the map as being there somewhere. I never did find it although I passed down the side of a tall wall with barbed wire on top and an entrance which was guarded and entry prohibited. Maybe that was it.

Right: A 'fitness training' area where I witnessed some incredibly athletic men doing remarkable things on parallel bars and other equipment. 

Left: On leaving the park to the north I passed this extraordinary building; home to various enterprises.

Nearby was the National Football Stadium. It was impossible to see the footer pitch as the vast structure was from floor to roof-top enclosed by shops and restaurants. I wasn't allowed in as that evening Albania was due to play Armenia in some vital match. There was a large potential crowd hanging about the area. All very well behaved, I hasten to add.

Right: A swish bar and restaurant called something like 'La Castilla'. I went in for a beer, which wasn't too expensive. It was very upmarket with several bars and dining rooms both inside and on verandahs, plus very pretty and polite staff.

Left: It was getting dark as I passed the Presidential Office. All locked up of course. I believe the current President is called Bajram Begaj, who has only been in post since July this year. They do 5 years in office. The Prime Minister is the real power behind the throne (vis the dreadful Enver Hoxha, 1944 - 85).

That night it started to rain, again, plus violent thunderstorms. Just before the heavens opened, at about 11.00pm there were also some extremely alarming fireworks let off somewhere nearby. I thought WW3 had broken out. I was told later that it might have been a celebration of someone's birthday. It was a very noisy night.

Further wanderings to follow.........

TOURING TIRANA

 18th -19th Nov 2022

Tirana City Coat of Arms

I spent the first day in this city generally wandering around and reconnoitering potentially useful places, starting with the Tourist Information Office to the north of the central plaza, the vast Scanderbeg Square (Sheshi Skënderbej) and obtained  a vital Street Map. I had not, as is my normal practice, brought a guide book with me. Left: As per the main Square, many of the walkways, other squares and pavements were paved with this marble-like surface. Very attractive, but when wet dangerously slippery. And, as I came to discover over the next few days, I had arrived in what is obviously the 'wet' season, unless it is wet all year round. Indeed, on the first day it started to drizzle and the lady in the tourist office put me off any out of town trips due to impending even more rainy weather. At least it wasn't cold.

I was amazed by the proliferation of smart and cheerful bars, cafés and restaurants, some very sophisticated and probably expensive. In most of the main streets (Rrugas...with 2 'rr's) they were lined up next to one another, and in every square, and were well patronised. Left: This, Sophie's Café, is but one example of hundreds.

Right: Of course there were the universal (apart from in India and perhaps Pakistan) 'Oirish Bears'. I found two of them. Actually they only paid lip-service to being Irish with nothing particularly Irish about them except that they sold Guiness.

Left: There was also an extraordinary number of barbers' (berbers) shops. There were three in the same street as this one, and many others in other streets. What is it about Albanians that demands such a large number? Does their hair grow quicker here than in other countries? Maybe it is something to do with the rain? There is a large Turkish community here (I am told) and I know they are renowned for their barbers. I rarely need one nowadays.

Talking about the vast number of bars, eateries and other hospitalty venues such as the many hotels plus currency exchanges (loads of these) and other service outlets here; they are all well run and well staffed, exclusively by Albanians. Why is it that they can do this whereas in UK, where we have a large number of 'unemployed', our hospitality venues depend to a very great extent on immigrant labour? Could it be that in UK people are well enough paid on 'welfare' to do bugger all? One hardly dares  mention it.

The staff in these venues all appeared to speak reasonable, and sometimes good, English. They are taught English at school and Albanian is a unique language. It has no commonality with any other, not even with the other Balkan states,  so I suppose that is the incentive. It is interesting that Albanian is one of the most ancient of languages. Look up 'Illyrian' and find out more. At least I found it interesting.

Right: Traffic was busy, especially so at the rush hours, and there were very well coordinated and controlled pedestrian crossings on the main streets. Lights, which sometimes ran down the height of the posts (not shown here) counted you down to crossing and most people stuck to the rule, but not pedantically so. If there were no cars coming, people did use common sense and cross despite being on red. (unlike, as I have experienced, robotic Germany and Australia).

Left: There was a degree of imagination shown with  the colouring of the crossings.

Right: Jolly musical groups played at various locations, and were quite skilful. However there were one or two 'solo' artists (I use the word loosely) who were less tuneful and strained the ears a bit who just seemed to blow into, or strum, something noisily to attract attention and, optimistically, a donation. They had probably been kicked out of a band.

Left: The Ferris Wheel at the southern end of the Square was well used when it was not raining. No, I didn't have a ride.

Right:.........and it lit up at night with changing colours. 

Left: There was also a roundabout and some trampolines at the southern end of the Square. That kept the children amused, when it wasn't raining.

Right: Standing next to the statue of Gjergj Kostriot Skënderberbeu (after whom the main Square is named). He was a 15th century Albanian Feudal Lord and military commander who led a successful rebellion against the Ottoman Empire in this part of the world. He is a national hero.

Left: Of no particular interest, but I passed this little stand selling ice-cream. I tried one of them (the one 3rd from left at front). It was some raspberry concoction. I am no ice-cream afficionado, but it was absolutely delicious. I had a second!

Right: The City Hall. 

That will have to do for now. Plenty much more interesting stuff to report, but I am on the move tomorrow and it will probably have to wait until I get home in a couple of days time. Gjithë urimet e mia më të mira!

TALLY HO! TO TIRANA

17th - 18th Nov 2023

The Albanian Flag

Onwards to Albania. The transport to Tirana was this 'HAK' operated minibus (left). It was half full when we pulled out of Skopje for the 7.5 hour trip. There would be several stops en-route to drop and pick up passengers. I had managed to bag a single seat near the front door with plenty of leg room. Our first driver was a stoutly built gent who, refreshingly un-PC, had a cigarette in his mouth for the most of his stint driving.

Right: Leaving Skopje through extensive suburbs. After about an hour we stopped at a garage where there was a driver change (the previous one had probably run out of cigarettes), and a few more passengers embarked. Skopje lies in a wide valley which, as we progressed westward narrowed until we passed through the Mavrevo National Park. The valley closed in and we became surrounded by a beautiful forested and mountainous landscape. I think part of the Sharr mountain range. It was impressive.

We had brief stops at Tetovo, Gostivar, Kercove and Struga before reaching the Albanian border. The border passport checks were straightforward with not much of a delay. Somewhat similar for Albanians, without passports, arriving in paddle-boats on the south coast of England I suppose.

Onwards into Albania where the landscape became progressively more dramatic. We were now hair-pinning down zig-zag roads on the side of some vertiginous forested hillsides. The surrounding countryside was, to say the least, rugged with tall mountains in the background and some sheer rocky cliffs on either side of us. We also followed alongside various large rivers. I have no idea which.

There was a refreshment stop at a café somewhere in Albania, the first one long enough to get out and have a coffee/pee/cigarette or whatever you fancied. Sitting in an adjacent seat to me was a pleasant Danish guy and his partner/wife/girlfriend (or whatever you are allowed to call them nowadays). We had a bit of a chat. He had been a mine-clearing engineer in the Danish army.

There were a few stops in Albania (I didn't take note of where) and we passed or stopped at some filling stations. Left: Most of which were designated 'Kastrati' which to my mind sounds rather unfortunate.

We arrived at the main bus station in Tirana on schedule at 4.30pm. I must say I was impressed by our driver who had negotiated some challenging terrain for over 6 hours, relaxed and without any problem. I exchanged a 'high five' in appreciation.

It was a pleasant afternoon and I decided to walk to  the cut-price hotel I had booked on the opposite side of the city centre. After getting some cash from an ATM (Albanian Lek - £1 = 134 Lek) and a refreshing glass of beer at a nearby and very smart café, I got my bearings and set off across the city. It was getting dark but my initial impressions were of a bright, clean and prosperous, well lit city with a mass of nice 'up-market' shops and respectable looking inhabitants. I followed my nose, the directions on Google Map (at the café) and (what a useful tool) the help of a 'silva-compass' which I always carry, and reached the hotel after a 40 minutes walk.

En-route, and before I have even done any research on where to go next, apart from my hotel, or what to see, I passed a few sights. Not far from the bus station on Rruga e Durrësit (all streets are 'Rruga'. Can't think why they bother with 2 'r's) was this well illuminated statue of Adem Jashari. I discovered that he was the founder of the Kosovo Liberation Army, Hero of Kosovo. He, and his family, were killed by Serbian police in 1998 aged 42.

Then on to the main square, the vast Skanderbeg Square (left) in the centre of town. It is paved with some form of marble and very shiney. I expect it becomes rather slippery when wet. A revolving multi-colour changing Ferris wheel was at the southern end.

On across the square to join Rruga Hoxha Tahsim (his name lives on) along which was my hotel (the Driti, at £20pn). Made it!

Having checked in, and here I discovered that many hotels don't accept credit cards (although most retaurants do). I was told that there have been 'scams' where customers have had their accounts emptied after using cards. The charming and helpful receptioniste trusted me to find cash and pay the next day. After putting my kit in my room (three floors up and no lift) it was still early enough to go out and have a look around. I discovered that around the centre there are more cafés, bars and restaurants that you can shake a stick at. Most if which look, and are, very smart and inviting. I ended up in a pleasant eatery towards the main square and had a delicious 'spag bol'. All the staff of restaurants and hotels that I have met so far seem to speak excellent English. My first impressions, after being in Tirana for only a few hours, are that it is a clean, modern, affluent and rather jolly place. The locals appear smart, well turned out and helpful. I was expecting somewhere poorish and downbeat. Far from it!

More to follow......

TO BRUSSELS AND BEYOND

12th / 13th Nov 2022

My transport to Brussels

This will be an interesting trip because after getting to Brussels I'm not quite sure where I will be going. It depends on rail and bus schedules. Stand-by for further updates! I shall add to this as I go along.

I was intending to go to Brussels by EuroStar (train) but, unlike the last time I used EuroStar (several years ago when it was reasonably priced and a regular service), the availability of services was patchy (no trains on Saturday 12th which was when I wanted to travel) and the prices varied enormously depending on time/day. The 2nd Class seats on Sunday 13th cost £180! I gave rip-off Eurostar two fingers and chose to book a bus trip on Flixbus (no, I hadn't heard of it previously either) for £48.

This was to leave London, Victoria Coach Station, at 2230hrs on Saturday night. It was all quite efficient and left on time. All seats on the double-decker bus were taken. Seats downstairs were larger and had tables (all booked). Upstairs the seats were equivalent to 2nd Class airline jobs. I was sitting next to a pleasantly quiet Filipina lady. The seats were comfortable enough but with limited leg-room and not conducive to getting any kip.

The driver was a rather portly Polish chap (actually he was very portly) who turned out to be both helpful, cheerful and a skilful chauffeur. The stop, midnight approx, at the 'Chunnel' entrance involved the UK and French passport checks but at least gave us the chance to de-bus, have a pee and buy some snacks. Back on board, the bus, after a bit of a wait, was loaded onto the 'freight' train (where we stayed inside it) and onwards under the sea to La Belle France. Then a stop at Lille (0400hrs) and on to Brussels North (0745hrs). It was by no means luxury travel, and I got almost zero sleep, but it did what it said on the packet and I have no complaints!

I managed to find and negotiate the Brussels Metro and am now in a relatively cheap Ibis hotel near Brussels Midi railway station. Having said that, it wasn't cheap by my standards but I was too knackered to search for a better deal.

I took a walk around the station area. It was rather depressing. There were little groups of dark skinned gentlemen standing idle with beer cans in their hands on most of the street corners. I could not find a single, what I would call, pleasant bar or pub. Many of the restaurants did not serve alcohol, so no refreshing beer and those that did  appeared scruffy and downmarket and seemed to attract a fairly dodgy looking clientele. I got the impression that there is a large down-at-heel 'immigrant' population lurking here in this city, the Headquarters of the European Dream. I expect there is a much more upmarket area which caters for the expensive tastes of the EU hierarchy.

At around lunchtime I did find one respectable looking eatery, a Steak House situated on a building site next to a 'Purveyor of Erotic Goods', the 'Hotstore Erotique'. The restaurant offered some rather decent looking steaks according to photos outside, but there were two oddities; you had to download the menu on some 'app' or other (inconvenient) and they did not serve alcohol ( I like a glass of red wine with my steak). Neither was it cheap. I gave it a miss. Does Brussels have a problem with alcohol, I began to wonder?

I couldn't resist having a dekko inside the shop next door. There were some fascinating items of clothing and equipment on display; several of which I could not fathom out. It must appeal to those who have rather strange (and unpleasant) romantic intentions.

Left: As with some other 'enlightened' cities (Stockholm and Kyiv spring to mind) there was a proliferation of these 'pick up, ride and drop' e-scooters. They were well used and caused no problems. Of course they will never catch on in UK because a) our citizenry would abuse them and throw them into the nearest ditch/river/canal b) they would not conform to some bureaucratic traffic law or other and c) they would be decreed dangerous and banned by the 'elf 'n safety brigade.

On a more positive note, I visited the large International Railway Information Office in the station. Two of the staff, a youngish chap and lady, dealt efficiently with my complicated enquiries. They were charming, helpful, and answered all my queries. I don't think any of the UK railway stations have such a good Information Office.

Brussels-Midi railway station is vast, with 22 plaforms covering domestic and international destinations, plus a myriad of shops and cafés. It makes London Paddington resemble a village stop-over.

I had a quiet evening and early to bed for a good kip after a total lack of sleep on the bus getting here. Off south-east next......

!4th / 17th Nov

I took the (German) Deutsche Bahn (Db) ICE train from Brussels to go via Frankfurt to Vienna leaving at 8.23am. It was only 5 minutes late departing. Having used Db a few years ago I was confident that it would be a smooth and efficient journey. I was to be disillusioned! After departure we were informed that the train would only be going as far as Cologne. The conductress told me that I should now take the train from Cologne to Mannheim, then another to Munich and change again to Vienna. We arrived 25 minutes late at Mannheim and so missed the connection to Munich! I had to get another train back to Frankfurt and catch a 2.22pm train to Vienna. It arrived, eventually, in Vienna at 9.00pm. What a faff! I was subsequently told by a German friend of mine that Db is now seriously unreliable. They have all sorts of scheduling problems...as I have discovered.

Interestingly, everybody on the Db trains, except for me of course, was wearing the dreaded and useless face-nappies. Nobody commented. It seems that in Germany, unlike certainly Belgium and UK, these anti-social masks are compulsory on public transport (unless you are eating or drinking) and the Germans robotically and unquestioningly follow this silly rule.

Left: On the plus side, the trains had excellent buffet cars which served, table service, a good comprehensive menu. I managed to occupy a seat in one of these on all the trains. They also all had good WiFi connection.

Vienna Hauptbahnhof, another large and smart station had open, even at 9.15pm, a very good international information office. With their help I got information for onwards journeys and even a local map with instructions of how to get, by bus, to my hotel (which was actually quite close to the station). We, in UK, seem unable to provide this kind of service. 

The small Hotel Attaché in Vienna was welcoming, comfortable and very reasonably priced (£42). I had a very good kip!

The next morning a 15 minute walk back to the station and onwards in an Austrian (ÖBB Railjet) train to Budapest, departing 9.42am and which arrived on schedule at 12.15pm. No more filthy face-masks in evidence! At the (Vienna) station were these (right) highly user-friendly ticket machines. You just had to type in any destination (domestic or international) and the ticket was issued (with reductions for old-age). So simple. In fact I didn't need them as I was travelling on an Interail Pass.

On arrival at Budapest I had intended to go straight on by rail to Belgrade but, at their info desk, I was informed that the railway to Belgrade is still not operating. This railway was due to be built/sponsored by the Chinese (they are buying into Hungary and Serbia as everywhere else worldwide). This process started in 2013 and has yet to be completed! So, on advice, I went by Metro to the Nepliget bus terminal and bought (£21) a ticket for another (8 hour) Flixbus journey to Belgrade. This was sold to me by a charming lady who had previously worked in UK for 3 years. She enjoyed having a bit of a chat in English! It left at 4.30pm and via passport controls (off the bus, on the bus twice) at the border and a connection at Novi Sad, we arrived in Belgrade, earlier than scheduled, at 10.00pm. The bus had only been half full and was efficiently driven through, at times, rather foggy conditions. There is also a good WiFi connection on these buses which is very convenient. The main roads/motorways in this part of the world seem very good. There was no sign of the universal and constant 'roadworks' which plague UK motorways and we travelled at a constant speed all the way down.

Due to such a late arrival I headed for a nearby hotel which was rather more luxurious and expensive than I would have normally chosen, but needs must. I write this from here (Hotel Jump Inn!) before a wander downtown and another Flixbus journey onwards.........

It was a short wander, as this was only a 'pit stop'. I called in at the 'tourist info' office in the centre, just to check that trains south were not operating. They informed me that their office only dealt with 'city' matters and I had to go to another office to ask about 'out of city matters'. I did so and they hadn't much of an idea about the rail situation. I decided to stick with the bus option.

Left: Passing by the Republic Square on which is situated the National Museum with a statue of Prince Mihailo (whoever he was) on his horse.

Right: A brief glimpse at the front end of the Belgrade Fortress (Beogradska Tyrdava). The statue in the gardens at the front is called 'The Monument of Gratitude to France' built in gratitude to the French during WW1. It is meant to depict a female form (Marianne?) rushing to the country's aid. It looked to my untrained eye like a fat lady attempting, badly, a bit of Kung Fu.

Left: I passed this group of musicians. They were brilliant and I donated a few Dinars. I took a video, with sound, but for the life of me could not download here. I've managed this feat before so can't work out why not now. I will do so eventually!

Back to the hotel to collect my bag and on to the nearby bus station for the onwards  Flixbus (operated by Fudeks) trip to Skopje, Macedonia (or more correctly 'North Macedonia') for a fleeting visit. It was scheduled to leave at 3.30pm for the 7.5 hour journey. And this is when the day became a bit of a hassle. I arrived in plenty of time, I thought. For some reason you had to buy (190 Dinars = £1.25p) a ticket to get out onto the forecourt. I did not have any Dinars. I had some Euros. I was told I could exchange these at 'Desk 12'. There were numerous desks. There was a queue at Desk 12. Eventually I was told that they could only exchange a minimum of 50 Euros! After much pleading they did exchange a 10 Euro note. I was then told to go to desk 39 to buy the blessed ticket. Another queue! I felt I was sure to miss the bus. I did make it in time, just. 

Off we went (not such a comfortable bus as previous) and stopped at the Macedonian border for customs checks. And waited...and waited for about an hour before debussing to show our passports. Not only that but the Macedonian control made us bring out all our bags to be searched. A very cursory search, but it all took time. We eventually arrived in Skopje at 10.35pm. I had been advised by the hotel where I was due to stay that a taxi should cost between 3 to 4 Euros. I am allergic to taxis and try to avoid them. However, needs must here and, probably because I was tired, I made an elementary mistake! I accepted the offer of a taxi from an unknown bloke meeting the bus. I told him what price I was willing to pay. OK, agreed. Next mistake, I allowed him to put my bag in the boot of his 'unmarked' taxi. I got in and he was joined by another guy in the front passenger seat. As we set off I began to get suspicious. It became apparent that they were going to scam me and asking for more and more money. Possibly with threats. You are so vulnerable in a taxi with your bag in the boot! To cut a long unhappy story short, I managed to escape having paid 15 Euros. It could have been much worse...I could have been robbed of everything. Not only that I was, of course, dropped at the wrong place. Fortunately I met a charming Turkish guy who let me use his phone (mine had no 'roaming' facility) to locate the hotel which, fortunately, was within walking distance. He even escorted me there using his phone mapping. I am so grateful to him. There are some good guys around when you need them. So, something I thought I was wised up to: "Caveat Taxi", especially in a foreign country.

I got to the hotel at about 11.15pm. It was one of those 'remote controlled' establishments where you are furnished beforehand with codes to get in. That was all fine and I now managed to speak by phone (and WhatsApp) to the 'remote' manager. He told me that I had to pay in cash (Macedonian Denar), and leave the cash in the room. I thought I had already paid on booking. Blimey, this was getting tricky and inconvenient. I was beginning to get rather frazzled. As it happened the hotel manager/owner turned out to be a real star. He also spoke perfect English having worked for a few years in London and America. I explained my misfortune and the fact that I needed to get another bus at 9.00pm the following morning. He was sympathetic and even offered to collect me in his car the next morning, pay on his credit card machine for the hotel (which was very good value) and take me to the bus station, which he did. Not only that, he escorted me into the bus station (I had to pay for another time wasting 'entrance' ticket), acted as my 'translator' and I used his phone 'hotspot' to download my bus ticket. This was a service well beyond the call of duty and I remain eternally grateful to him. At the time, in my frustration, I don't think I thanked him enough. All this hassle was, of course, entirely due to my ineptitude. You would have thought I should have learnt by now! If you are thinking of paying a visit to Skopje/Macedonia I recommend the Vanilla Boutique Hotel (+38975811411). Great value and Stevan, my aforementioned saviour, waxed lyrical on all the amusing and interesting things to do in that country. Definitely worth another, proper, visit.

Right: The Macedonian flag. Rather a jolly one.

Much chastised, now onwards again to Tirana, Albania, my ultimate destination. I shall start a new blog for this.

(BTW, I haven't seen a filthy face-mask or any sign relating to 'that bug' since leaving Austria, which is quite refreshing).