MORE KRAKOW - AND HOME

 14th - 16th May 2022

Wawel Royal Castle

At the southern end of the old town, overlooking the river on Wawel Hill, is the 16th century Wawel Castle. It was the home of Polish kings for over 500 years (did they ever have any queens?). 

Before I went up to the castle I wandered down to the park along the riverside.

Left: A view west along the Vistula.

Right: There was this group of people doing exercises, slowly, to music. Was it Tai chi, pilates, qigong, bong bong or kung fu?

I have no idea and it looked rather boring but they seemed to be enjoying themselves in a sort of rapt trance-like way.

Left: The bronze statue of the 'fire-spitting' Wawel dragon which provided a useful climbing frame for the youth in the park. There is a tunnel which exits from the cliff here from the Dragon's Den up in the castle. I only found out about that after I had left the area. A pity I missed it.

Right: The west front of the castle. I suspect it has been through many 'alterations' over the centuries. 

The ticket office here sells tickets to visit various sections of the castle and its grounds including; the Royal Private Apartments, Crown Treasury and Armoury, State Rooms, 'Lost Wawel' and the Exhibition of Oriental Art. Of these only the Royal Private Apartments was open. The others were 'undergoing renovation' and not due to be open until July.

I duly bought a ticket for the Private Apartments, the entry to which is inside the courtyard (left).

The rooms on view, on two floors were, to my taste, rather dull. They were devoid of much furniture and fittings and one room looked much like the others...but all were signed as being significant in one way or another.

Right: One of the rooms, and I can't remember what it was. I didn't make notes!

Left: ......and another. They had ancient, and probably very valuable, paintings and tapesties hanging on the walls, but I'm no art connoisseur.

They didn't seem to have anything interesting, like a snooker room.

Left: A 'master bedroom'. It doesn't look very cosy, and I never saw any loos. Maybe they didn't have any in those days and just used a 'jerry' under the bed or peed out of the window.

I won't bore you with any more of the many rooms.

Left:: A 16th 'still life' painting which, even to my untrained eye, looked rather good and in excellent condition.

Right: This sword, I believe dating back to the 14th century, was ultimately used for ceremonial purposes. However, the notes said that much of the hilt, blade and pommel had been replaced over the years. Rather like the Ship of Theseus...everything replaced but still an ancient ship!? (or Trigger's broom in Only Fools and Horses!).

Left: A line up of old Polish warriors at the castle wall. They provided a photo op for tourists and were very popular. Lots of 'selfies' were taken.

Right: A gallant knight brandishing his two swords. I think the idea was that he gave one to a tourist for a short, and hopefully bloodless, duel and the tourist's partner takes a photo. I didn't have a partner thankfully.

Left: This couple played very jolly tunes and had a few people dancing along. Not me, of course.

There were many other chapels, crypts, shrines, museums, other sights and a cathedral that I could have visited, but didn't. I must be running out of puff! Instead I went for a rather good meal at a Ukrainian restaurant called 'Smak Ukrainski'.

I stayed at a hotel called 'Maximum'. It was on the eastern side of the Old Town and was excellent value and well located. I recommend it. 

Back there that evening I tried to book a flight home. EasyJet came up with the best/cheapest option. I duly booked and started to check-in on-line. It then told me that a 'large' (ie. normal sized) cabin bag would have to be placed in the hold, and that would cost an extra £33.99p! I paid. On further checking-in it said that I could take a normal cabin size bag on board, for an extra £14.99p. OK, I paid for that, BUT having done it I found I could not cancel the hold baggage. What a rip-off! Having got home I am now in 'negotiations' with EastJet for a refund. They are proving anything but helpful. My recommendation; don't use them. BA flying out to Warsaw were much more straightforward and cheaper.

The train to Krakow airport was quick, cheap and efficient (20 min trip). The airport is smart and easy to navigate. As always, I arrived far too early for my (rip-off) EasyJet flight. Fortunately there is a good outdoor café (right) where I happily spent the time.

So a 2½ hour flight to Gatport Airwick where we were greeted with a typical 'welcome home' British drizzle (I had experienced sun and blue skies for the previous two weeks). At least no delay getting through passport control. I must confess, arriving at a British airport you really wonder what country you are in. The staff are what you might politely call 'ethnically diverse'.

So, back to normality after what was a very pleasant and interesting holiday.

Left: I don't know where this guy had been or what he had been eating.....rather a lot I suspect. He should go to Somalia for a bit of health cure.

I can't resist it. After seeing all those slim, trim and attractive ladies in Kyiv I came home to this, tucking in to a vast pile of fish and chips. She was probably drinking a 'diet' lemonade.

Which reminds me of standing behind a similar behemoth checking in at London Heathrow. She was complaining that she was absolutely 'starving'.

Starving? Words defy me.....

Where to next? I'm thinking.

KRAKON TO KRAKOW

!4th - 16th May 2022

St Mary's Basilica in the Rynek Glowny (main square)

Krakow (pronounced Krakov....all 'w's in Polski are pronounced 'v') contains a very picturesqe medieval 'Old Town' and, as such, is a major tourist attraction. 

After a night in Warsaw (Varsava in local-speak) I decided to be attracted and took the 11.55am train which arrived in Krackow at 2.30pm. It was another smart, comfortable and swift train to another smart and modern station which is surrounded by an extensive two level shopping mall plus the bus and tram termini. I must say the Polish transport system makes ours (in UK) look somewhat clapped-out, chaotic and seedy in comparison!

Left: A map of the walled Old Town. Click on to enlarge. Rynek Glowney square and St Mary's Bassilica at the north end and Wawel Castle at the bottom overlooking the Vistula river.

The square, measuring 200m by 200m is the largest medieval town square in Europe.

It is surrounded by cafés, bars and restaurants which all seemed to be doing good business. The weather was sunny and the place was fairly packed with tourists.

Left: Some of which seemed to go out of their way to attract the 'wrong' sort of tourist.

.....and unfortunately they succeeded with several rather uncouth, tattooed, thick-necked, knuckle-dragging, unshaven and foul-mouthed British tourists with lower lips like wash hand basins who advertised their presence very loudly. And that was just the women! It makes you embarrassed to be British.

Left: A typical and very civilised square-side bar.

Right: The Cloth Hall, on the west side of the square. This originated in the 14th century and was once the centre of Krakow's medieval clothing trade. It has gone through several re-builds.

Left: On the ground floor if houses a 108m long busy trading centre for jewellery, crafts, souvenirs and tat. The upper floor is an art gallery, apparently.

Right: The Town Hall Tower which is all that remains of the 15th century town hall, dismantled in the 1820s. Don't know why.

Left: There were lots of gaily decorated horses and carts which took people for clip-clop tours around the town. Probably rather expensively.

For some reason they were all driven by flaboyantly uniformed ladies, most very smartly dressed with ribboned hats, riding boots and long whips. This cart (right) had a driver who, from a distance, looked as if she was topless!

Left: These Segway tours were popular. They are indeed popular in many parts of the world but have never caught on in UK. They are probably banned...like so much else here, on 'elf 'n safely' grounds.

Right: I'm not sure what this "Gentleman's Club' had to offer. Probably affiliated with some of the smarter Clubs in London, but I didn't find out.

Left: Every hour, on the hour, there is a bugle call from the top white window of the  higher tower of St Mary's Basilica (see photo at top). This is known as Krakow's Call, or the 'hejnal'. It originates from the 13th/14th century period when the city was frequently  attacked by Tartar invaders. On one occasion when the watchman bugler on duty spotted the enemy he duly sounded the alarm to rouse the defenders. It breaks off abruptly as legend has it that the bugler was shot through the throat by a Tartar arrow mid-bar (considering the window is about 200ft up and 500m from the city walls it must have been a very long and fluky shot!). The city managed to defend itself successfully and as such the tune has stayed that way ever since.

It is now played by a uniformed fireman and you can just see the tip of his bugle throught the open window. Perhaps he is worried about another unfortunate Tartar arrow?

I duly paid for a ticket to climb the spiral staircase to the top of the tower. There were 270 steps! Quite knackering. I was up there until 4.45pm and missed a trick because if I'd just waited until 5.00pm I would have met the bugler. I had forgotten about him sadly.

But I did get a good view of the square below (right) and a panoramic one of the city.

At some point there was a loud 'demo' going in support of Ukraine. I was wearing my recently purchased Ukrainian baseball cap, so blended in well.

That will have to do for now. More to come from Krakow.......

TRAIN BACK TO WARSAW.

12th - 14th May 2022

The main entry hall at Kyiv railway station

The Kyiv railway station is a fairly respectable building, if a bit 'Soviet' in architecture and gloomy in some parts. However there were clear and informative announcements in both Ukranian and good English. After another crowded Metro underground trip to get here, I arrived, as is my wont, far too early for the sleeper departing at 7.13pm. No alcohol is served at the station cafés so I made do with a cup of coffee and sandwich.

While waiting, another especially long, loud and wailing air-raid warning sounded. As usual, nobody paid the remotest attention. I thought this was a most suitable 'farewell' gesture and was rather anticipating a timely bomb or rocket to drop so I coud proudly say I left 'with a bang'. Nothing happened.

Left: There is a popular confection served in many cafés and supermarkets here; the Ukrainian Hot Dog, the manufacture of which is interesting. They take the long bread roll, insert a metal plunger which makes a longitudinal hole down the centre. Then tomato ketchup, mustard and some white stuff is poured into the hole. The long sausage is then shoved in and pumped to and fro to to mix the gunge inside which then oozes out of the top. It is faintly pornographic. 

I didn't try one (cheap at 35 Hryvnia...about 90p).

This 'sleeper' train was, this time, a direct one to Warsaw (£36 and good value for a distance of 784km or 487 miles). Certainly better value than any UK variety.

On boarding I was greeted by this stout, and not entirely unfriendly, attendant (right) who resembled a friend of mine in UK...I nearly greeted him as such.

On finding my compartment I discovered I was to share it with two respectable looking Ukranian ladies, I think mother and daughter, aged about mid-fifty and mid-twenty respectively. The younger one spoke reasonable English. They told me that they were going to visit friends who were in Warsaw. They were certainly not refugees and would be returning to Kyiv. They spent much of there waking hours on their computers.

It was a strange layout with a bench seat on only one side which could be transformed into three bunks, on top of each other. I was on the top bunk. When we (they) decided to turn in for the night I had to use a ladder to get up to my roost. It was quite a struggle. I had gone to the loo beforehand and hoped I didn't need to go again during the night. The ladder had been removed and it would have been a traumatic descent to exit the compartment. Fortunately it wasn't necessary and, as far as I was made aware, had not snored too loudly...or they were polite enough not to mention it. Although the younger lady did stay in her bunk, asleep, for about 3 hours after we had arisen....

We arrived at the border (I think the place was called Turiysk) at about 6.30am where there was 2 hour delay as the Ukrainian border police took away and stamped our passports. It also involved the train being shunted into a large shed where they had to change the  wheel 'bogies' due to the change of railway guage between the ex-Soviet guage and the Polish one. I hadn't realised, or noticed, that they must have done this on the way in. After a bit of banging and clanking and some reversing, we set off slowly into Polish territory at Dorohusk with another 2 hour stop for the Polish team to check and stamp passports. 

During this static period I met a young American journalist who was in the adjacent compartment. He was returning to Washinton DC and was an amusing and informative chap. During this long border period the loos were kept locked. Fortunately I seem to have a fairly strong bladder although I was keen to have a pee. I wondered what others, more desperate, did?

At least hot drinks were available at the end of the carriage (they weren't on the way in). Also, and curiously, when at the Dorohusk stop on the Polish side I noticed a couple of vans pulling up and people, wearing tabards, were off-loading many boxes and bags onto the train. It transpired that these were 'charity' workers delivering rations to us poor refugees! We all received sandwiches, a sticky bun and a bag containing fruit juice and several chocolate bars. Well, who was I to refuse, as didn't the two ladies in my compartment. It would have appeared rude and ungrateful. None of us needed it. We had all brought our own grub (in my case a few tins of beer plus cheese biscuits etc.). I'm not sure how many, if any, on that train were 'refugees' or needy. The people I saw on the train all appeared fairly prosperous and capable of looking after themselves.

The train moved faster and much more smoothly on the Polish side. After further stops at Chelm (45 mins wait) and a couple of other stations we pulled into Warsaw East (on the east side of the river) at 3.30pm (that would be 4.30pm Ukraine time). So it was about a 21 hour journey! Then by tram to the centre of town where I was to stay the night at a not so cheap (by my standards) Holiday Inn.

Before booking in, still with suitcase, I was determined to get to the top of the (now) 2nd highest building in Warsaw before it closed, the Palace of Culture and Science (left).

It cost 15 Zloti (about £3.00) for the very speedy lift to the 30th floor which has a viewing gallery. It's just below the clock which you might just be able to see on the photo.

Right: View from the top. To the East, over the Vistula.

Left: The now tallest building in Warsaw, the Varso Tower. I think they just stuck a tall antenna on the top to claim victory.

Right: View to the South. I have photos to the North and West but consider them of no great interest.

Left: A closer up shot including the Polonia Palace hotel, the building centre left, where I stayed previously.

I called in to the Central Station to buy a ticket to Krakow in the south of the country. It is somewhere I have always wanted to visit. Report to follow.

PS. I seem to have 760 Ukrainian Hryvnia left in my wallet (about £20 worth). I withdrew cash from an ATM in Kyiv but as most places took credit cards I stupidly didn't use all the cash. If anyone reading this is thinking of going to Ukraine please let me know and I will sell them at a good price.

ENCORE AND FAREWELL KYIV

 11th - 12th May 2022

The Ukraine Coat of Arms

The Ukraine coat of arms, the 'trizub' (trident) dates back to Volodymyr the Great in the 10th century. 

One of the sights I remember from my previous visit in 2018, is the standard of the young female Kyiv citizens. Without exception (that I noticed) the young ladies here under the age of 30, say, are all trim, slim, well groomed, well dressed and very attractive. There are absolutely no fat wobbly kangarillapigs that one frequently  encounters overflowing seats and blocking the pavements in UK and perhaps other European cities. Is it their genes, breeding, diet? I have no idea, but it is very noticeable. The young blokes now tend to adopt the Zelensky look-alike scruffy beard.

Don't get the wrong impression. I have not been lurking around snapping unsuspecting ladies. Just a few shots to give you some idea; all taken with the target's agreement and, in one case, insistence. This lady (left) is setting the couture standard quite high.

Right: A more 'natural' style. 

Left: I admired this lady's dress and she was keen for me to photograph her. They are not shy here! 

It was her friend who insisted (believe me) that we should be photographed together! Not my idea, I can assure you.

Anyway, I hope you get the gist.

I was keen to find an Irish Bar (pronounced Oirish Bear) which as you are aware feature in most cities in all countries....except India, and perhaps China. The idea was to find a Pool table which Irish Bars often possess (as per my recent trip to Bangkok). I needed to brush up my skills before returning home where a few of us 'old gits' gather once a week to demonstrate how useless we are. I found three (bars) of them. O'Brien's (left), on Mykhailivska St. was one. It was firmly closed.

As was O'Connors (right) on Khoryva St in the Podil district. However, while I was down that way I bumped into a most amusing Brit, from Andover, Hampshire, at a coffee shop. I think he was carrying out some 'aid' work or other. Anyway, we had a good chat. He has been working in Ukraine off and on for some years and was most informative. 

The third Irish Bar I tried, called Dockers, off Kreshchatyk St.....was also closed. All very tedious. The 'Oirish' must have done a runner!

I was accosted by two lady reporters from Switzerland. They were prowling the streets with camera and recording equipment. They wanted to record and televise my, or anyone's, views on Putin's address at Red Square on 9th May. Heavens, the last thing I want is to appear on Swiss, or any other, TV! We had a good chat and they were amusing company. I explained that my views, along with even the those of the 'experts' are all pure speculation and guesswork concerning the mad/evil Putin's intentions. They told me that I was the first 'War Tourist' they had met. We parted on good terms.

Left: The Bessarabsky market. This is enclosed in a vast circular domed building on Kruty Usziz, near my hotel to the south of the centre. It has numerous stalls selling all kinds of foodstuffs......

Right:......several of which specialised in caviar. I was given some high-pressure sales pitches to buy it. They kept lowering the price. I resisted, not knowing when or where I would eat the stuff. I am not an expert on caviar!

Another thing which I remember from my previous visit is the lack of street signs, and those they do have are in cyrillic writing which makes it difficult (for me). They have signposts which point towards places of interest, but it is not easy to find out which street you are on, let alone which building number. Having said that, the same problem exists in my home town in UK even with English writing.  .

Left: An interesting shopfront.

Right: Standing in front of the arch and angel staue in the centre of the Maydan. I can't remember what this monument is in aid of, or called.

Left: Another interesting venue....and there are a few of these. 

For some reason I actually wandered into St Michael's Monastery cathedral. You are free to do so. There was a service ongoing. It is an extraordinarily ornately decorated interior and there was a team of elaborately cloaked orthodox priests in heavy gold patterned  costume (whatever you call them) with tall crown-like hats swinging those incense balls on chains to a background (recorded?) of a loud holy choir. There were several 'congregants' standing with heads bowed (females heads covered) in reverance. I hope they were all enjoying themselves. Whatever turns you on I suppose. I had to be rather discreet with my photography, hence a rather blurred image which didn't include the incense waving priests.

Left: At the other end of the scale...!

Right: Sandbagged monuments, of which there are many, in front of St Sophia's Cathedral. Have to look back at my 2018 blog to see what they are. They have been taking good care of their monuments...so far, and hopefully forever, unscathed.

Left: An amusing title for a craft beer emporium. The Ukrainians have a good sense of humour.

Right: They take their boxing seriously. The Klitschko brothers are recent champions. One of them is now the mayor of Kyiv. I can't remember which; Wladimir, or Vasiliy?

Left: Another noticeboard on the grass by the Independence Monument.

Right: A slight military setback in the city. 

I did ask what are all these camouflage dressed groups of soldiers were who are abundant in the city and what organisation they belonged to. Mostly they were unarmed. I was told they are 'reservists', or the equivalent of our WW2 Home Guard. I was on the lookout for Capt Mainwaring, Sgt Wilson and Cpl Jones or their equivalent. I think, hope, they are a bit more serious than that!

I have many more photos, but these and previous will have to do. That more or less concludes my week's visit to Kyiv. I found it most interesting and, despite the many air-raid warnings (with no bangs to follow them up), a very pleasant and not in the least bit concerning holiday. The glorious weather helped. OK, many museums and other venues were closed, but that was due to lack of tourist custom and staff not threat of attack. In some selfish way I wish I had some more 'warry' stories to tell and dramatic scary events to describe, but that just wasn't the case. The locals are all taking this situation in their stride and are most certainly not cowering away from a normal existance. Many are returning to Kyiv from 'refugeeship'. They are a resilient, very good natured people and thoroughly European in their outlook. It was a very different situation a few weeks ago, I admit, when the city was seriously threatened. The situation to the east and south still looks grim, but I hope and believe that the worst is over for Kyiv and most of the country to the west. I was told by some that I was mad to risk coming here, but I'm glad that I did. I will tell them on my return, "if you don't believe me that Kyiv is fine and safe and welcoming then go and see for yourself". They won't of course. The media hype sees to that. Just make sure you find a sleeper compartment from Warsaw without an ear-piercing snorer in the adjacent bunk!

So, bye-bye from lovely Kyiv and I'm about to return to Warsaw on another 'sleeper' and thence maybe elsewhere. I've got some cotton wool to put in my ears just in case. I expect I will report back on that.

PS. As I mentioned at the beginning, if you are interested in a more detailed report on the attractions and sites of interest in this city then go to my blogs of June 2018. 

до побачення і удачі

PPS. While writing this I was half watching the Eurovision Song Contest. Gosh, that goes on for a long time. I thought the songs were mostly rubbish, just lots of 'effects' and screaming ninnies. It didn't finish until about 1.00am local time! The only part I find entertaining is the 'tactical' voting.  Surprise surprise, Ukraine won! The bookies' odds were not that great but I hope the Ukrainians are happy. Sadly for them, of course, they have to host the damned thing next year. There's always a dark lining in any silver cloud.

PPPS. I have just been sent this photo from a reader. He took the one on the left,  in Newham, East London, where he lives, together with one of mine from Kyiv on the right. Both taken recently. I have no doubt that Kyiv is the better, more civilised and probably safer, place to be!