INTRAMUROS. OLD MANILA

10th - ?th Dec 2025

The impressive looking Manila Central Post Office

On a visit to Intramuros I walked to the 'grand' Central Post office (left) which is located to the north-east of the 'walled' city on the south bank of the river Pasig. I was hopeful I might find some postcards here, and it looked promising. However, on closer inspection, this 'grand' building was derelict. It had been completely burnt out in a mammoth fire in 2023. The inside rooms were just abandoned black shells! No time scale for renovation, it appeared.

However, just behind it, and guarded by armed security (as everything is here), was what has taken its place; this little hut (right). So I went in and found a sole lady 'manning' it. She was actually very polite and helpful. I asked, more in hope than expectation, about postcards. She rifled around in a few cupboards and drawers and eventually produced a dusty little cardboard box with some city postcards in it! Amazing! I stayed in this office to write and post them. She said they would take about two weeks to get to the UK. I was dubious. However they did, much to my surprise!

Intramuros (inside the walls) is the historic part of the city. It is bounded by walls, although I didn't see any, and surrounded by the large well kept Rizal Park. 

Left: A photo, not mine, of part of the 'walls'. I never saw any walls. They must have been well hidden, although I was not actually looking for them.

While up in the north part I decided to take a look to the Presidential Palace, Malacañang Palace, which is located on the north side of the Pasig river about 3 kms to the north-east of the Post Office. The President is, as I'm sure you know, the redoubtable Bongbong Marcos. It looked a simple matter of walking down the south side of the river, cross a bridge, and then east along the north side. You must be joking! I got about half a mile down a footpath by the river towards the bridge when it came to a dead end. I had to retrace my steps, take a long detour through the city to get to a road leading to the bridge which had no pedestrian footpath. I walked across anyway, dodging traffic. 

On the north side of the river another hike along various streets until I reached a fenced area surrounding the extensive Palace grounds. There was at least a gate here to enter. Finally reaching the guarded entrance to the actual Palace compound (right) I was told firmly by a well armed sentry "NO ENTRY"! I suspect any visits to see the Palace are only by 'authorised' tours. So, despite my pleas, I made my retreat.

Left: En-route I passed this smart building (in the outer area); the 'Office of the President'. Perhaps I should have rung the bell and spoken to Bongbong.

Right: A better photo taken through the gates.

Left: A pic of the riverside frontage of the Palace which I did not see. Taken on a bright sunny day the like of which I did not see either. Most days I was here, especially in the afternoons, were either cloudy, rain showers or drizzling.

So, a trudge back to the city. Right: There are many of these SM shopping malls throughout the city; this one is just outside Intramuros. They are vast, on 4 or 5 floors, and amongst coffee shops and greasy-spoon restaurants are expensive shops selling all kinds of useless luxury items (handbags, shoes, clothes etc.). Plus medical and dental outlets. I believe 'SM' stems from the 'ShoeMark' brand.

Left: Most seem to have 'characters' hanging about in fancy dress to have your photo taken with for, they hope, a small donation.

As mentioned earlier, there are a lot of 'down-and-outs' on the streets. Some, like this poor old chap (right) obviously severely handicapped and wheeled around by whom I assumed was his elderly wife. I  contributed.

Left: …and another common sight, often on bridges and in underpasses.

On circumventing the Rizal Park, which seemed curiously devoid of any people and not many entry and exit gates, I found (advertised in my guide book) the Bayleaf Hotel which boasts a sky-deck terrace with good views. I went up and indeed on the top floor is a very smart restaurant and open viewing area. 

Below: A view east to the clock tower on the City Hall.

Below: To the south-east a view beyond the pond to the National Museum of Natural History, which I subsequently visited. The rain had started to come down, visibility was reducing, so I decided to have a light meal in the expensive restaurant!

Right: The hotel seems to have a 'commendably woke' event planned!  

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For some reason this blasted blogging site is now playing up and I can't 'move' the photos. So closing down early and hopefully it will come back to life when I start a continuation of this, and other, well overdue, reports. 

The Sentinel of Freedom, or Lapu Lapu Monument, in Rizal Park near the museums. This monument honours Mr Datu Lapu-Lapu, the first Filipino national hero, who defeated Ferdinand Magellan in at the battle of Mactan in 1521.

I decided to wander down to the museum area in the park. There are three of them there; the National Museum of Fine Arts, the National Museum of Anthropology and the National Museum of Natural History. I chose the Natural History one because it was closest and, by now, it was pissing down with rain. I was soaked (no umbrella) and hoped to dry off in there. It has a very grand pillared facade.

There was a long queue of people, mainly children's/students' groups with teachers, waiting patiently on the steps up to the entry. I employed my normal technique of just walking around to nearly the front of the queue, waving to someone, and joined them. Nobody ever objects! I think it's called 'blagging'. It was free entry and then another queue to leave any bag you are carrying at a desk/store.

It is a vast museum on 6 floors. Left: The entrance hall. There are miles of passage-ways, escalators, stairways and 'galleries', some of which had little in them. To be honest I found it a bit boring, but at least I was drying off.

I show a few photos of some exhibits which were not just stones or plants or insects etc. To be completed later……….