ON TO LISBON

 13th -14th Jul 2023

Plaça do Comércio featuring the Triumphal Arch and statue of King José 1 in south Lisbon

Following on from the previous, on the bus from Monchique to Portimão I sat adjacent to a charming young couple (I dread to think what they thought of me) with whom I struck up a conversation. He was Portuguese and worked in London. She, a very attractive young lady, came from Norfolk. They were on there way to Faro to fly back to UK. We walked together (they couldn't get rid of me) to the railway station in Portimão and shared a train as far as the town of Tunes where, luckily for them, I had to change trains to go on to Lisbon. Again, the train service was exemplary; on time, comfortable, good free Wifi, excellent buffet car and the total cost for the 3hr+ journey was 12.5 Euro (OK, I got a reduction due to old age...which is a bonus standard throughout Portugal..also for museums etc). There is an advantage to ageing in these parts.

I arrived at Lisbon main 'Oriente' station at 6.00pm. My 'cheapo' hotel was at the other (southern, riverside) end of town and involved a longish Metro journey. It was quite a faff to work out how to buy the correct ticket from the automatic machine even though instructions could be displayed in English. I was helped. It took me a day or two to get the hang of it. My 'hotel' (paid for in advance), the Alfama, turned out to be crap, and that's saying something by my standards. Some rather grumpy chap (unusual for Portugal) met me there (it was unmarked and difficult to find), showed me to a very basic bedroom with shared bathroom, and then buggered off never to be seen again. I just left the next morning leaving the keys in my door. I found a much better, even cheaper and well located one for the next four nights! (Residential do Sul at 52 Av. Almirente Reis, if you're interested) which was conveniently next to the Anjos Metro station.

The next day was spent wandering the old city. It is wall-to-wall bars and cafés with many tourists plus many elegant old buildings, squares and statues of expired dignitaries .

Left: There are lots of 'souvenir' shops such as this. Three on this small street alone. I bought some postcards. Call me old-fashioned but I still enjoy sending postcards. They seemed to be manned predominantly by people from the Indian sub-continent, and charmingly so. I had an amusing chat with the Bangladeshi proprietor who told me that there is a large Bangladeshi community here. I soon discovered that Portugal, with it's past large colonial empire, is now host to many from their ex-colonies in South America, Africa, Indian sub-continent, Far East etc. Somewhat similar to Britain perhaps. PS. Our postal system in UK seems to have completely broken down so I doubt any of my postcards will be received this year, if ever.

Right: Many of the building façades feature this pretty blue and white pattern. This became apparent in several of the places I subsequently visited.

Left: All the pavements and most squares in the towns I visited are paved with this attractively designed black and white patterned marble type cobble. The designs vary. A lot of work must have gone into this and they all seem to be in a good state of repair. There must be teams of maintenance personnel to keep them in good nick and they are obviously very hard wearing.

Right: I think this rather extraordinary 'statue' is in the Martim Moniz square. It is very lifelike. Not sure what or whom it represents. From now on, be warned, I have taken various photos of interesting monuments and statues but probably can't remember where and who they are.

Martim Moniz is remembered by various streets, and even a Metro station, named after him. Apparently he was a Christian knight in the 13th century who was credited with outstanding gallantry when assaulting the Muslim Moor-held St.George's castle here. Legend has it he led his soldiers to attack the castle and wedged himself into the closing front gate, to prevent the defenders from shutting it, thus allowing his troops to enter and capture the castle, and he died as a result. This, I was subsequently informed, is a myth as Mr (Sir) Moniz published various letters two years after his supposed death. Who knows, and why let the the truth in the way of a good story.

Left: the Triumphal arch at the southern end of Rua Augusta. It was built to commemorate the city's reconstruction after the earthquake in 1755. There is a lift to the top which, of course, I took.

Right and below: Views from the top. Looking north up Rua Augusta. All this area is known as the 'old' or 'historic' district and is very touristy...with good reason.

Left: View to the riverside to the south.

Right: To the Square below.

Left: The square is surrounded by long colonades with several jolly outside cafés and restaurants.

There was a military band marching and playing up the street to the right. After descent I went to watch, however the police had blocked it off. Apparently this was a welcoming party for the visiting President of Cuba (whomever that is now).

Right: Looking  north-west to the castle of St.George. I would be visiting that later.

Left: There is an enormous statue on the top featuring someone wrapped in a bath towel putting wreaths on the heads two unsuspecting victims. I'm sure it represents something significant. 

Right: Lisbon Cathedral nearby. It was built by the Christian crusaders in 1147. I'm not a great aficionado of churches and cathedrals. They seem all very similar inside, just the size varies! However I decided to go in and look around and hoped I wouldn't be struck down by a bolt of lightening from Heaven,

Left: The general view of the interior. As said, much like any other Cathedral.

Right: Sitting inside one of the many side- chapels were these 'worshippers' wearing their sacred 'Ronaldo' T-shirts.

There is a museum attached which prohibits photography (why?) and features lots of display cases with elaborate golden shirts inside.

Right: This is the room which is set aside for the 'Patriarch' (I think that is what they call the head honcho) to get changed out of his jeans and T-shirt into more appropriate garb. I note it features 7 hats....one for each day of the week?

I went into a wine shop and had a look at what was on offer. Unsurprisingly port featured largely. If you 'click on' to this photo (left) to enlarge you may be as gobsmacked as I was to discover the price of these bottles. I will not be bringing one back. The cost of the middle one is more than I will spend in total on this trip! Just think, if you did take out a bank loan and bought it and when going through security at the airport, as it was over 100ml, it was confiscated or chucked in the bin! Or it got broken in transit...and badly stained one's clothes.

Tourist transport around the city included bus tours and lots of Thai-inspired tuk-tuks which have become popular in many touristy cities worldwide. There were also these quaint looking 'old' cars/taxis (right). I didn't try one so have no idea what it cost. Once I had sussed out the Metro and tram system everything else was in easy walking distance...and I needed the excercise!

Left: The Museo de Dinheiro (Money Museum) in the Plaça de Municipio. This was originally the HQ of the Portuguese Bank. Just another example of fine architecture which features so largely around the city. The city Post Office is on the other side of this square. 

Like many other touristy cities, Lisbon has it's fair share of beggars. You can never be sure if they are genuine or a scam. Many seem to feature dogs and cats to gain sympathy. This chap here (right) was sitting with two rather fat dogs. His sign read: "Help. I am deaf. I and Dogs need to eat". It raised the question as to why he kept them in the first place if he couldn't afford to feed them, and why they were so fat. I was tempted to tell him if he was that starving he could always eat the dogs! Of course I then realised that as he was deaf he wouldn't hear me.

Left: Quite a clever 'living statue'. I have seen many of these before but this chap put on quite a good performance and attracted several onlookers to wander around him trying to work out how he stayed airborne. I gave him 50c for his efforts.

That will have to do for the time being. I am well behind with this 'blogging' lark and have much more to report from Lisbon and the surrounding area. I must be slowing down.

TO PORTUGAL. ALGARVE

 7th - 13th  July 2023

Statues of 'plane spotters' at Faro airport

I departed from Southend airport (SEN) to Faro on the 7th July. SEN has changed since I was last there, working, 20 years ago. Having booked a one-way EasyJet flight through one of those 'cut-price' agencies, I had been well and truly tricked by, somehow, unintentionally booking my small cabin bag into the hold. Explaining to EasyJet (by phone) that I wanted it in the cabin overhead locker (which would have been cheaper) I was told that their 'system' could not allow me to change. Lesson learnt: find the cheap prices via the agency and then book direct with the airline, otherwise you have no comebacks. I actually confronted the very pleasant and helpful man at check-in to see if he could facilitate the change, ie. simply take my cabin bag on board and cancel the hold charge. He said he was not allowed to rebate my hold charge, and of course I could take it on board but that would cost me an extra £48! The basic seat price was only £66 and I had paid an extra £24 (inadvertently) for the unwanted hold baggage charge. He agreed with me that these 'cheapo' airlines made a packet from baggage charges. What a rip-off (and he tacitly agreed!). As it happened the overhead lockers on the 'plane were almost empty. 

Left: The departure lounge at Southend. It was very quiet, very efficient, uncrowded and rather pleasant. Southend is one of the more enlightened UK airports which now does not necessitate putting liquids into separate plastic bags, or anything else for that matter, it all just goes through the X-ray machine. I wonder when all other airports will catch on!

It was a late evening 2½hr and uneventful flight arriving at Faro at 11.30pm. There was quite a long Q at passport control and I got into the arrivals hall at 00.15hrs. Of course I had no accomodation booked, but sourced a cheap hostel within 20 mins walk of the airport. I decided to give it a go for a short sleep. Found it, and it was closed, so walked back. OK, no problem, a café was still open at 2.00am and after a cup of coffee and a sandwich I joined several other scruffy dossers and lay down for a kip on an airport bench (yes, I can still manage that). At 6.00am I found the airport bus stop and, after waiting 20 mins, caught a bus to the railway station (2 Euros). I was aiming to get to the town of Monchique 20 miles north up the mountains from coastal town of Portimāo . A very obliging ticket seller at the station sold me a ticket (3 Euros) to Portimão and told me where I could get a bus onwards from there. After another coffee the very slow train left at 7.10am for the 50 mile journey. It was a most interesting and enjoyable trip rattling along the coast and up into the hills on occasions. We stopped at 12 villages/towns before arriving at Portimāo at 8.30am. Another helpful official at the station gave me clear instructions (they all seem to speak decent English) on where to find the bus stop, a 10 minute walk, and which bus to get. At 9.15am the bus arrived (rather a comfortable one) with a helpful and polite driver. So far all the Portuguese 'officials' I have met have been so polite and helpful! 5 Euros for that journey and, after a 25 mile switchback ride up the mountains, I arrived in Monchique at approx 10.00am and settled into a very pleasant café/bar restaurant for a glass of Super Bok beer (1.50c Euro) while waiting for my hostess to collect me. I was amazed by how cheap and easy this journey was; bus and train total 10 Euros! It may not appeal to everyone but I rather enjoy this rough and ready way to travel.

Right: Amusing 'statues' at the bus stop in Monchique.

Left: Our 'villa' in the hills. It was surrounded by forest with a terraced garden in front. The only place you could get a photo of the place was from the road about a mile down the hill. There were to be seven of us living here, some for longer than others. Rather luxurious, with swimming pool, and spacious verandah where the eating and drinking and 'socialising' took place.

Right: The panoramic view south from the verandah to the town of Portimão on the coast. You can see the bit of road from where the photo above was taken in centre. The area is heavily forested and scattered with several other similar 'villas'. It was very quiet and peaceful. Actually it was not so quiet and peaceful in August 2018 when an enormous forest fire broke out which swept the area and involved over 1000 firefighters (some brought in from Lisbon) plus aircraft 'drenchers' to get it under control after several days. As a result things like barbeques are now banned (drones will spot them, I was told). The forest appears to have more or less regenerated. Our charming hostess was due to celebrate her birthday later in the week (after I had left). One hoped that the candles on her cake would not cause a similar catastrophe.

Left: After an evening meal. Life here consisted predominently of sleeping, cooking, eating, drinking, reading, sunbathing, dips in the swimming pool, a daily trip to the supermarket in Monchique for supplies (three of the residents had hired cars), much gossip and hilarity. There was a workable, if temperamental, WiFi connection. I specialised in the sleeping, eating and drinking categories. I'm afraid I'm not into swimming or sunbathing. A couple of us occasionally ventured about 10 minutes walk up the hill to a pleasant café bar, the Paraiso de Montagna, for a change of scenery.

On one day we all ventured out for lunch at the Café Inglês (right) in the picturesque and touristy small town of Silves, about halfway down to Portimão. It was a charming eatery, after a bit of getting lost finding the place, with most amusing and attentive waiters, and good inexpensive food. Recommended.

There is a large castle there which we visited after lunch. It was guarded at the entrance by this fiercesome looking chap. Can't remember who it is. Prince Marigold of Silves perhaps.

I don't think I took any photos of the battlements and walkways around them, but saw this rather odd little statue (right) in the centre. I think it looks rather rude, or maybe I'm imagining it.

Left: A vault below ground was virtually empty apart from this display; a native lynx, two foxes and a few rabbits. How fascinating, I thought.

The drive home was memorable for our car, not mine I hasten to add, hitting a pothole (yes, they have them in Portugal) and bursting a tyre. We staggered on to a garage where, with the aid of the staff at the garage, the temporary spare was fitted. Again, the chaps who assisted were remarkably cheerful and helpful. I continue to have a very good impression of the local Portuguese. The couple who hired this car were due to drive back to Lisbon (150 miles) the next day to catch their flight back to UK. Fortunately, on driving back through Monfique we spotted a tyre repair shop which was closed but open early the next day.

I had decided that I would leave the villa with them as I think, after five days, I had done enough 'villaring' for the time being and my wandering instinct was kicking in. It was a very pleasant stay, but I was keen to travel around the country.

So I left early on the morning of the 13th and was deposited in Monfique while the car was being reshod. Next, a bus back to Portimão, and I will continue the journal from there.

Right: Saw this rather extraordinary mounted aeroplane next to a school playground in Portimão. It seemed rather incongruous and out of place. I expect a plane 'spotter' will tell me what it is.

Much more to follow as I have got a bit behind with all this blogging business, and the 'action' of touristing is yet to come.

BITS AND BOBS

30th June 2023

A proper clock

I have been nowhere of any interest since returning from Vietnam in January. Various 'social' commitments have kept me at home in the increasingly frustrating environment of the so-called 'United' Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland. It feels less 'united' by the day.

I am writing this now for no better reason than to check that my 'blogsite' is still functioning having not used it since the beginning of January. I thought I would start with a few random 'whinges' just to let off a bit of steam.

As someone who often travels through railway stations, ports, airports and other transport hubs, it is important to be kept aware of the time. OK, I have a watch and mobile phone which both tell the time, but is not a substitute for having a large time-piece hanging prominently in front of you. They used to be commonplace, but not now, as per the one pictured at the top. "Bring 'em back" is what I say.

One can't nowadays avoid all the 'hoo hah" concerning all this 'Trans', 'SIS', TERF, LGBTQIA+ nonsense. To be honest I have lost track of what it all means and who is what, or not. I clearly remember the days, not so long ago, when none of this was on the spectrum of anyone's thought process. Is a 'trans woman' a man pretending to be a female, or a female pretending to be a man? I have lost any comprehension and, frankly, interest. I think they just make an issue of it to wind us up! School-children are now busy winding up their 'woke' teachers by pretending to be cats, dinosaurs and vegetables. Good luck to them! 

Our politicians seem to have spent most of their time fighting over who had a party, or not, during the appallingly conceived 'lockdown' period. Again, I am just not interested and all the time and credibility wasted on this really does not alter the price of fish. Actually getting things done to improve the country takes second place. Indeed actually doing anything seems beyond their capacity. As always, it is all words, promises, plans, 'pledges' and intentions with absolutely no noticeable action (other than by many 'workers' in our institutions going on strike for 'more pie').

A serious problem in the past couple of months, where I live anyway, has been the lack of mail deliveries by our Royal Mail. I went for over two weeks without a delivery. This has never occurred before in my lifetime. To give one example of how this adversely affects us, people are receiving, if at all, letters for hospital appointments well after the appointed date.  It is, in my opinion, a more serious problem than most of the trivial issues which grab the headlines. Our local MP was made well aware of this and, of course, promised to take action by arranging an 'urgent' meeting with 'senior' Royal Mail management and would 'get to the bottom of the problem'. She (I think it is a 'she' but you never know nowadays) also promised to make a visit to our local distribution office to discuss the situation with the manager and would get back to us with an update of what is going on and what is being done about it. This was about three weeks ago. She never turned up at the distribution office (where a senior manager had made considerable effort to travel some distance to meet her) and, needless to say, we have heard nothing from her since regarding an update let alone action. It seems to be a politician's accepted tactic just to say they are going to do something and everyone, they hope, cheers. That is as far as it goes! 

Left: !!!!! From my local town. At what point do these gigantosauruses give up? "Its me metabolism to blame" they cry. This vast pile of flubber is so obscenely obese it can't walk and needs a mobility truck to go on the hunt for further burger shops to plunder.

Right: Another comparatively slim-line monster nearby.

I am pausing this load of rubbish now and publish to see if all is in working order. I might, when bored, add to it later. In the meanwhile I am packing my bag for a comparatively civilised trip, starting in Portugal. Never been there before. I hope to keep you informed, if not educated.

 

NEW YEAR IN SAIGON

 29th Dec 2022 - 4th Jan 2023

Happy New Year in Sài Gòn

The Vietnamese, like the Chinese, traditionally celebrate the 'Lunar' New Year, called here Tết, which occurs sometime later in January or February. It depends on the moon I suppose. This year it's on the 22nd January (the Year of the Cat here) and work stops for a week, or two, with great family reunions. However, like Christmas, the Western New Year is another great opportunity to decorate the city and have a good party.

'Happy New Year', or in the local vernacular 'Chúc mừng năm mới' is the standard and enthusiastic greeting.

I was to spend the final 6 days of my 'Chrexodus' wandering around the city and enjoying the razzmatazz. The following captures a few sights in no particular order and ends on New Year's Eve!

There was a football match between Vietnam and Singapore. This was televised and shown on three enormous screens erected along the large Le Loi boulevard (left). 

Vast crowds assembled to watch and cheer vociferously.

Right: They sat, packed, on the ground or sitting on their 'motos' over a distance of 500 metres. The one thing you notice about Vietnamese crowds is that they are always very good humoured and well behaved. I have never witnessed any of the drunken rowdiness, let alone violence, that often accompanies similar British gatherings.

The match finished in a 0-0 draw and with no hassle.

I paid a return visit to the 'War Remnants Museum' north of the centre (left). This is now a modern hi-tech museum covering both the French and American conflicts. As you can imagine the displays are somewhat biased in favour of the gallant and patriotic Vietnamese.

It has been much revamped since my last visit several years ago and there were many tourist visitors.

Right: There is a large display of aircraft, armoured vehicles and weaponry involved in the conflicts placed around the outside. The displays inside are on three floors.

In fact, it was from inside here that I got most of the photos (of photos) shown in a previous blog.

Left: On the way up I passed the front gates of the Independence (or Reunification) Palace. It was formerly the Presidential Palace and where the famous 'iconic' photo was taken of an NVA tank smashing through the gates in 1975.

Right: I also passed the 'Palais de Justice' which I show as another example of rather splendid French architecture; rather spoilt by the large tent at the front.

Left: Also, on the way back, in front of the Independence Palace, was a stage where they were rehearsing an act for New Year's Eve. It featured the 'famous' Vietnamese pop star Dam Vinh Hung. No doubt you know of him? He is the one in the white T-shirt (you can just make him out if you look carefully). I'm afraid I didn't see the performance on NYE. Other things to do.

During the course of these few days I paid a social visit to a restaurant called 'Les Trois Gourmands'. It is in the Thao Dien district (District 2) which is just south of the Saigon River. This is owned and run by a formidable and charming lady, Mme Phuong, who previously, with her now sadly deceased French husband Giles (a sommelier), ran another great place, a restaurant and guest house, called Le Toit Gourmand in the northern Tan Binh district and where I resided very happliy (15 years ago!) for a couple of years. Les Trois Gourmands is one of, if not the, premier 'gourmet' restaurants in the city (with prices to match!). Well worth a visit for a special occasion. Above: Mme Phuong (right) with another lady, Chieu, who also worked at the previous Toit Gourmand. They seemed glad to see me and I was given a rather good glass of wine. Santé! Hẹn gặp lại !

While on the subject of excellent places to go to eat and drink when in this city, another worthy of praise and recommendation is 'The Refinery', a cosy brasserie in a secluded courtyard at 74 Hai Ba Trung Street, near the central Lam Son Square. It is owned and run by a French lady called Noëlle Carr-Ellison and has always attracted lots of 'ex-pats' (and tourists and locals) over the years. The Refinery is called thus because it is on the site of an old opium refinery when those things were in fashion. I visited this time (actually more then once) when there was a typical tropical downpour. When it rains here it doesn't just pour down, it is a veritable biblical deluge and normally lasts for about 10 minutes. It is quite alarming and noisy, but the bucketing water is at least warm. Photo above is of the downpour from the inside comfort. I could hardly hear myself eat and drink.

Left: The Amman emporium at the southern end of Hai Ba Trung Street, City centre. This is Saigon's equivalent of London's Fortnum and Mason. On two floors it sells all the upmarket goods you can expect from any of the Western, and worldwide, premium food and drink outlets (at a price!). If you want such things as Patum Pepperium Gentleman's Relish, caviar or any top-of-the-range drinks, as well as Tetley tea bags, they will have them. There is also a smart café/bar on the 2nd floor which does impeccable tea, scones and sandwiches.....as well as, to cater for the likes of me; wine and peanuts.

For some reason many people, especially tourists, were wearing these luminous ears on their heads (right). Or are they horns? Talking of tourists, why is it nowadays that 98% of all male (maybe also some female as apparently we can call ourselves whatever gender we like nowadays) Westerners between the ages of 18 to 40 sport scruffy unshaven facial stubble? The English cricket team and Andy Murray (tennis player) are prime examples. Is this fashion or simply laziness? Whichever, I think it looks most unattractive.

Below: A tuneful Vietnamese lady singing an appropriate song in the ground floor bar of the Caravelle Hotel.

I show some buildings and structures around town. 

Down by the river is this statue of Tran Hung Dao (right), an iconic warrior from the 13th century.

Left: ....and behind him, the Vietcombank Tower, a mere 36 storeys and 676ft high.

 

Right: The Bitexco Tower, with helipad and viewing platform at the top, with a rather expensive bar and restaurant. I have visited this up top previously and photos in a blog somewhere. It has 68 floors and 861ft high.

Left: The daddy of them all, the Landmark81 building, owned by Vinahomes, an upmarket housing estate at the east side of the city. It has 81 floors and is 1,513ft high. It is the 2nd highest building in south-east Asia. (and 17th in the world). A prize for whomever guesses the tallest (not difficult with 'Google')

Right: A pretty girl. There are so many around this part of the world; always well turned out, slim and with nice hair, and smiling and happy. Somewhat dissimilar to most in my home town.

Left: This chap was selling sunglasses, as were many others on the beach at Nha Trang, for example. I never saw him, or them, sell one. There was another lady selling backscratchers in similar fashion. Very useful I'm sure and I hope she did better business.

Below: Back at the rooftop-bar of the Caravelle Hotel. The jolly Cuban girls and band were at it again. They manage to get people up to to dance. Apart from me, that is.

On NYE the streets were thronged with people and 'motos'. They were making the most of New Year's Eve. Right: 'If pigs could fly'! Outside the Opera House.

Left: A chap performing a spectacular 'flame-blowing' act. I expect he probably singed his eyebrows, as well as those too close-by.

Right: A popular entertainment, mainly with children being instructed to ride these gyroscopically stabilised mobilty things, whatever they are called. I had a go and it was quite fun and easy to get the hang of it. I expect they would be banned in UK for not complying with any legally enforceable means of transport.

I managed to 'scam' my way into the (guests only) rooftop bar at the Rex Hotel, overlooking Nguyen Hue boulevard, which runs down to the Saigon River from where the fireworks were due to be launched. I was even given a complimentary glass of wine. Left: The crowds had gathered below in expectation.

Right: There was a band and singers up there to entertain us prior to the fireworks.

Right: Just prior to midnight, a group armed with champagne bottles assembled on the stage ready to pop corks to welcome in 2023. (7 hours ahead of UK).

The fireworks! A spectacular display which went on for 20 minutes. They even managed to control the lights on the tall building to read, roughly, 'Happy New Year'. Very clever.

So that was New Year's Eve, and a very jolly occasion it was. After most of the guests at the Rex had eventually thinned out they had left behind a large quantity of unfinished drinks in half full bottles. Guess who helped himself!

Right: Another pretty girl. I can't help myself! They were always very happy to have their photos taken.          Chúc mừng năm mới ! to you all.

So, back to Blighty. A decent, if unremarkable, 14 hour+ trip on Bamboo Airlines again. I arrived at London Gatwick airport (Gatport Airwick) at 8.30am on the 4th Jan to be greeted by cold and miserable fog and drizzle in true British tradition, together with various organisations going on strike, "We want more Pie", a concept totally alien in Vietnam. Actually, after landing at Gatwick it took over 20 minutes to taxi from the runway to the terminal. I think, with visibility down to about 50yds, the pilot must have got lost in the fog! Fortunately the trains from Gatwick via London Underground to Paddington and then on to Reading station were operating normally. From then on nothing. They were on strike! I made it home with help from a friend. 

Do you wonder why I do a 'Chrexit'?