OUTSIDE BUKHARA

 22nd - 24th Apr 2025

Khosa Palace. The Emirs' out-of-town summer residence.

I arranged via the splendid Yasmin hotel manageress, Zarina, a car trip to three locations outside town. The driver was, I think, employed by the hotel. Unfortunately he spoke not a word of English but otherwise a decent driver. Off we set on the morning of the 22nd.

First to the Khoja Bahauddin Nakshband 'compound' about 5 miles to the north-east of the city. Mr Nakshband (born 1318) is considered a Saint in the Islamic world and this is where he lived, operated a sort of 'madrassa', and was buried. It is a memorial complex visited by pilgrims, and tourists like me.

Right: If you can enlarge this (click on) and are remotely interested, it will tell you all about him.

Left: The complex contains a large pool.

Right: A courtyard....with more visitors/pilgrims than this photo suggests.

Left:....and a tomb at one end where he is supposed to be buried.

To be honest, it was not very interesting!

Then on to the Khosa Palace, 5 miles to the north of the city (see photo at top). This was originally built in the 18th century but rebuilt and modernised (with separate mens' and women's quarters) between 1912-18 by the last Emir. It served as a luxurious residence away from the heat and smoke of living in the Arc.

Right: The courtyard. 

It is now, basically, a museum with rooms displaying ancient ornaments, artefacts and furniture (left).........

Right:....plus impressive vases....

Left: ......and clothes....

Right: Elaborately decorated walls....

Left: The Grand Reception Hall.

Right:...and, of course, a room displaying and selling Bukhara carpets!  😩😩

Left: Outside in the courtyard, a band and ladies dancing. I have never before been to a country where people (mostly ladies) do so much 'impromtu' dancing!

Right: There is a large aviary containing many peacocks (poor photo), which made the most appallingly loud screeching noise.

Next on to Chor Bakr, near the village of Sumitan, 5 miles west of the city. 

This is the burial place of Abu-Bakr-Said (died 971 AD), one of several Abu-Bakrs, and was, naturally, a descendant of Mohammed.

It is, in effect, a 'necropolis' and mausoleum with many walled areas, both small and large, covered with graves and tombs (right); of whom I never did discover. I could show you many more...but this one is typical. 

Left: From the inside courtyard with a pool and a blue dome over the inevitable mosque.

Right: I stood in the entrance to the operating mosque. I had not taken my shoes off and accidentally stood on a carpet in the doorway. I was given a severe reprimand!

There was an Imam enthusiastically chanting prayers with a family group outside. Discretion stopped me from photographing them...I would probably have been given another bollocking!

Then back to town......after a 'reasonably' interesting day out.

I had seen a poster advertising the 'Desert Oasis Spa', which is about 40kms north-west of the city. It captured my imagination showing, as it did, what looked like an amusing touristy site. 

Right: Photo from the poster.

As well as hot-air ballooning, it allegedly featured luxuriously appointed 'yurts' for accommodation.......

Left: ...with camels to ride, horse-riding and quad-bike 'treks' through 'the picturesque and unspoilt desert countryside'.......

Right: ...and 'cordon-bleu' meals served in 'convivial' surroundings (it didn't mention a bar!).

So I went back to see my amusing new friends, Johnny and Leila, at the tourist info kiosk on Oulugbek Square for more info. They didn't seem to know much about the place but Johnny said he would arrange for his brother, who also speaks good English, to take me there the following day. The idea being to spend a day there to investigate the place.

The following morning a driver duly arrived to collect me from the hotel. It wasn't Johnny's brother and Johnny rang me to say his brother was otherwise engaged but he had fully briefed this driver.

The 'driver' spoke not a word of English and it soon became apparent that he had no idea of where the Desert Oasis Spa was! We set off, uncertainly, along the main road west out of town. His driving was, to say the least, 'eccentric' involving either speeding or slowly crawling and not obviously due to any speed sign restrictions. He stopped on no fewer than four occasions to ask for directions. I was not filled with confidence.

Left: At one point we were following (tailgating!) this car (another white one!). I find it curious to see so much support for English Premier League football clubs in this part of the world.

Anyway, after about 30kms and much stopping and starting we came across a large sign indicating the Oasis Spa turn off from the main road to the south. I think the driver would have missed it if I hadn't pointed it out. Then along a sometimes tarmac, sometimes dirt track with frequent 'roadworks' which involved going around them on a rather perilous kerbside. It was slow going. After about 10kms we did duly arrive at the 'luxurious' Desert Oasis Spa. It had taken 1.5 hours to cover the 40kms. 

Left: It was hardly the place as described on the fancy poster! Indeed, on entering the gate, the only people in evidence were a few workmen idly sitting around what seemed like a closed resort. There were certainly no happy tourists in sight. There was a more senior looking man in a shed who (not speaking English) showed me one of the yurts which was quite nicely furnished. There really was nothing else open or functioning.

The 'unspoilt and picturesque' countryside was not exactly 'Lawrence of Arabia' style desert. It was just flat sandy scrubland (right).

Left: ....and more of it. 

The bolshy driver wanted to go back to Bukhara and grumpily persisted, with much gesticulating, in asking me for the full fare (both two way journeys) in advance. I had no intention of spending all day here. Indeed I had no confidence that he would ever return! I just told him to take me back to town, to which he rather reluctantly agreed, and I would pay him for the single round trip. On the way back, speeding and crawling erratically as before, he even stopped on three occasions to pick up fee-paying passengers from the roadside! What cheek!

Anyway, I eventually got back to the hotel after what can only be described as a rather 'disappointing' morning.

Naturally I reported in to Johnny and Leila to describe this unfortunate trip. He was suitably apologetic and explained that, unbeknown to him,  the advertisements had been made before the site had become fully functional. It was news to him!

Well, I think that just about concludes my stay in Bukhara. A fellow guest at the Yasmin, much better organised than me, was going on to Khiva. As mentioned previously, I could have got to Khiva by train but not back to Tashkent (trains full for weeks) from where I had booked my return to UK. If I had realised earlier (when in UK), I could have booked a flight back to UK from Urgench International Airport which is close to Khiva. Hey Ho! C'est la vie and you live and learn.

I asked my fellow guest at the Yasmin (a charming German lady) if she could send me some photos from Khiva, which she duly did. More mosques, mausoleums, madrassas etc., plus a most impressive fort. Right: This is quite an interesting one!

Now back to spend a couple more days in Tashkent. At least I will be able to refresh myself at the 'Oirish Bear'.

More to come from there......

AROUND BUKHARA

 21st - 23rd Apr 2025

Ulugbek Square.

Ulugbek Square in the Old Town is a very sociable place and normally fairly crowded with tourists. As always my little camera seems to repel them!

The Square features at least a couple of madrassas, a mosque, a large bazaar, restaurants, a good café from which the photo above was taken, numerous, as everywhere, souvenir stalls and, especially, an excellent tourist information 'shack' (left).

This was manned by a very helpful and amusing couple, Johnny and his wife Leila. They both spoke excellent English and Johnny had a wicked sense of humour!

Right: The Ulugbek Madrassa (built 1417) and opposite another madrassa, is the oldest preserved madrassa in Central Asia (I was told). 

Left: Inside the madrassa, as usual, there are little rooms down the sides, most of which held souvenir shops, and carpets being sold in the main hall.

Right: At the back and up some steps was another little room which had attracted graffiti artists. 

Left: Of course I contributed. I'm sure I could have done better with a pic of Travellin' Uncle Matt and the normal 'woz ere' message. If any reader visits, perhaps they can add to it.

Right: The bazaar nearby. The domed roof serves to circulate the air and keep the place cool (before the days of air-con).

Left: Inside the bazaar. As normal a maze of passageways and a vast supply of carpets, clothes, ornaments and tourist tat. 

Right: Throughout the town there were many young artists painting very detailed little pictures. 

I frequented two restaurants in this square, or nearby. Left: The Zolotaya Restaurant with plenty of outdoor seating. Recommended.

Right: As is the Mavrigi Restaurant, on nearby Gavkshon Street, with these tables/loungers outside. I could never feel comfortable 'lounging' on these and trying to use the table...so I didn't. I much prefer a proper table and chair!

Left: Inside. It is a converted madrassa with the rooms down the sides. It has an excellent and 'good value' menu. I ate here on several occasions. The only drawback is the mulberry tree in the centre. It persistently dropped its leaves onto the tables.

Right: ...........and a band played most enthusiastically!

Left: I found this ancient 'gramophone' at one end. The 78 record on it is 'Kalinka', a Russian folksong.

Right: Tourist police. Smartly turned out and probably very helpful, if they spoke English. I can't imagine they had much crime to deal with.

Back to the Lyabi-Hauz square where there is the amusing Puppet Museum which features row upon row of intricately made puppets.

Below: We were treated to a display by this very skilled 'puppet master'. He is using just two fingers and a stick up the middle.

Right: Four ladies sitting near the pool who were devoutly chanting their prayers to Allah.

Left: 30p for a photo wearing one. I was tempted!

Right: The Lyabi-Hauz by night.

Left: The typical taxis about town. They were in abundance....but I walked.

Right: The Char Minar (Four Minarets) is amongst a maze of little streets to the east of the Old Town. This was the gate-house to a long-gone madrassa built in 1807. 

In fact these elaborately decorated 'minarets' are, strictly speaking, not minarets, but 'towers'

Left: Of course there is a souvenir shop as you walk in the front door!

You can climb up a very dodgy narrow little staircase to the floor above the entrance (for 30p) and get a better view of the towers.

Right: One of which has a pair of white birds (egrets?) sitting in a nest on top of it.

That will do for 'downtown' Bukhara. On a couple of days I ventured out on tours beyond the city. I will describe these outings in the next issue.

So, stand-by for more 'fascinating' reportage!

😬😬