ON TO NDOLA, ZAMBIA

 15th - 19th Dec 2020

Battledore Farmhouse, Ndola, Zambia

To Zanzibar airport (3 miles north-east of Stone Town) and began the now bureaucratic obstacle course of checking in for my flight to Ndola. Other than a ticket and passport one needed the $80 covid negative certificate, which had to be stamped as 'authentic' by an airport doctor (and it took 30 mins to find one). Then the Kenya Health certificate which I had filled in on-line which was a box-ticking exercise to state that you didn't have a runny nose or cough or high temperature etc. A bit like filling in a visa application for the USA where they ask you to tick 'yes' or 'no' on subjects like 'are you involved in drug smuggling?' or 'are you involved in any terrorist organisation?'. I mean, if you want the blasted visa why would any sane drug dealer or terrorist or person with a cough confess? Then an immigration desk to check passport, then the baggage x-ray machine. I had an empty bottle of konyagi as a souvenir. Confiscated! But not the large full cannister of shaving foam or anti-mozzie spray. There is little real logic in all this palaver.

Left: The packed departure lounge at Zanzibar. They were mainly Russians waiting to board a large aircraft to Moscow. Russia-Zanzibar travel tours are very popular. Note: nobody here wears a face nappy.

We took a small ATR-72 turbo-prop for the 1hr 45min flight to Nairobi.

I had a 13 hour transit hold-over in Nairobi, Jomo Kenyatta, airport, 7.00pm until 7.45am the next morning. Hence the need for an expensive (useless) covid negative certificate. I didn't need one for the 3 hour transit on the way out and I wasn't going to leave the airport. I despair. No face-masks in Zanzibar, but at Nairobi some of the passengers were togged up in biological warfare outfits! (right). There were about 60 Chinese going to Ndola (they now own Zambia) dressed like this. I suppose if you are Chinese you panic and do as you are told.

I met a charming young Ethiopian lady at immigration here who was en-route to Addis Ababa. She had not got one of those pointless Kenya Health certificates and was therefore not going to be let in. She did not have a mobile phone (stolen) so I offered to help by downloading the certificate for her to fill in. That was taking some time and eventually the immigration checker just told her to give a telephone contact number and let her in! What is the point of all this bureaucracy? Anyway, she and I had a long stop-over so we went to an airport café/bar and spent the night drinking expensive Kenyan Tusker beer and playing on my computer and her using my mobile to WhatsApp home. She spoke perfect English and was great company which helped to pass the night.

Arrival at Ndola airport at 9.35am and no 'covid' checks of any kind. The only delay occurred because having paid for my visa the printer broke down and had to be dismantled and reassembled. I was met and picked up by my host and on to his estate, Battledore Farm, a 30 minute drive. Once there we only had time for a quick pit-stop before host, his two Brit assistants and I sallied forth on the 320km drive south to Lusaka. This journey was to renew the assistants' work permits plus other administrative tasks. It took over 6 hours, via a stop for beefburgers and chips, and we arrived at our base for the next two nights, Lilayi Lodge, south of the city.

Left: The front of Lilayi Lodge. This is a very luxurious establishment surrounded by a small game reserve. We saw zebras, warthogs and several types of deer on the drive in.

Accommodation was in a series of these thatched huts (right) dotted along lighted pathways in the grounds.. 

Left:....with very comfortable bedrooms and all mod-cons. There is a patio with views out over the reserve. Not the sort of place I am used to inhabiting.

There is a smart bar and fine dining. We dined on exquisite Zambesi River freshwater crayfish the first evening. The standard of service by ever attentive waiters was superb.

Left: Breakfast. My host (who is camera shy) and his two assistants (Martin and Andrew) following a full English fry-up with Bloody Marys. This is, for me, a rather debauched style of living.

On into Lusaka where various administrative tasks were carried out. The city has some very decent shopping malls and a well known Irish Bar, O'Hagans. We went there. They advertise Guiness, Andrew's favourite drink, but somehow it is always 'not available at the moment'. Disappointing. However this was made up for by another visit to a bar for a refreshing glass or two of champagne (right). I'm really not used to this!

,,,....followed by a visit to a hotel roof-top bar for martinis.

Then on the arduous drive back to Ndola. It is not so bad during daylight but after dark there are numerous vehicles, mainly trucks, which have no rear lights. People lurk on the roadside trying to sell things and are nearly invisible. So much scope for a disaster, but we made it safely.

More to follow from Battledore Farm, much of which has not changed since my last 'non-Christmas' report from 2013/14.